i used about £20 of fuel today which was good.. Popped a intercooler pipe off and fixed that, so were back in business.. No..i just think a K04 would be too much power, i mean the set up i have now wants to spin up in 3rd in the dry
What gearbox are you using and size wheels? I've got a mk4 tdi 5 speed for my swap, but still have the 6 speed cupra r box, and my lump has the k04 already, think it will be see how it is once I've (eventually) got it all running on the road.
the box will likely make a big difference, mines an 02j out of a VRS octavia. K04 will be good as long as you can get the power down
Update time! So i have done 140 miles since Fridays MOT and its been generally very good. Points/issues to note: Intercooler pipe came off on one drive, no biggie and a quick fix... But... when trying to locate, i thought it might have been a Recirc valve issue, so i swapped out the forge unit for the original OEM unit...then found the intercooler pipe loose, so have been driving on the OEM unit..all good... However, when on full throttle, i get this drop off on the boost and spike back up, which is leading me to think the OEM recirc valve has had it. so i'll put the forge unit back on tonight and run some more mapping to see how it goes. Initial logging looking at MAF g/s redings and converting to BHP values indicates 233bhp (at that point im coming off throttle as the boost issue comes up) what will tonight look like with the forge unit on i wonder..could i hit 240!
Adding in thr AGU measuring block detail here, as i will no doubt need it later: ; ; VAG-COM Measuring Block AGU Engine Label file. ; Component number 06A 906 018 CG ; ; Does not work with 06A 906 018 FA (2000 US 2.0L) ; ; Created by James Billings. Thanks to "Dave" the VW tech who ; got me the codes! ; ; Visit http://ds.dial.pipex.com/town/terrace/pp70/golf ; 1,0,Basic Functions - Spec figures at Idle 1,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 1,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 1,3,Throttle ang,0-5 deg. 1,4,Ignition ang,6-12 BTDC ; 2,0,Basic Functions - Spec figures at Idle 2,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 2,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 2,3,Inj. period,1.00-3.00 m/s 2,4,Air mass in,1.8-4 g/s ; 3,0,Basic Functions - - Spec figures at Idle 3,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 3,2,Supply volts,10-14.5V 3,3,Coolant temp,80-105 d/C 3,4,Intake temp,-45-108.5 d/C ; 4,0,Idle Stabilisation - Spec figures at Idle 4,1,Throttle ang.,0-5 deg. 4,2,Idle mass,-1.7-1.7 A/T 4,3,Idle mass,0 if man/t 4,4,Op. mode, ; 5,0,Idle Stabilisation - Spec figures at Idle 5,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 5,2,Spec. idle,860 rpm 5,3,Idle reg,-10-10% 5,4,Air mass in,1.8-4 g/s ; 6,0,Idle Stabilisation - Spec figures at Idle 6,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 6,2,Idle reg,-10-10% 6,3,Lambda reg,-10-10% 6,4,Ign angle,6-12 BTDC ; 7,0,Lambda learned values 7,1,Lambda reg,-10-10% 7,2,Probe volts,0-1V 7,3,Valve duty,angle 0-99% 7,4,Correction,0.3-1.25 ; 8,0,Lambda learned values 8,1,Inj. period,1-3 m/s 8,2,Idle learned,-10-10% 8,3,Learned,-8-8% 8,4,Vent mode ; 9,0,Lambda learned values 9,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 9,2,Lambda reg,-10-10% 9,3,Probe volts,0-1V 9,4,Idle learned,-10-10% ; 10,0,Fuel tank breather 10,1,Valve duty,angle 0-99% 10,2,Correction,0.3-1.25 10,3,Filter state,-3-32 10,4,Purge rate,0-0.3 ; 11,0,Fuel Consumption 11,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 11,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 11,3,Road speed,km/h 11,4,Consumption,l/h ; 12,0,Fuel Consumption [Not verified in manual] 12,1,Engine rpm,0-6800 rpm 12,2,Voltage,V 12,3,Consumption,l/h 12,4,Ign degrees,deg ; 13,0,Knock regulation [Not verified in manual] ; 14,0,Knock control 14,1,Engine speed,0-6800 rpm 14,2,Engine load,0-10 m/s 14,3,Cyl 1 retard,0-9 degCA 14,4,Cyl 2 retard,0-9 degCA ; 15,0,Knock control 15,1,Engine speed,0-6800 rpm 15,2,Engine load,0-10 m/s 15,3,Cyl 3 retard,0-9 degCA 15,4,Cyl 4 retard,0-9 degCA ; 16,0,Knock control 16,1,Sens 1 volts,0.4-1.4V 16,2,Sens 2 volts,0.4-1.4V 16,3,Sens 3 volts,0.4-1.4V 16,4,Sens 4 volts,0.4-1.4V ; 17,0,[Not listed in manual - Using default labels] ; 18,0,Altitude adaptation 18,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 18,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 18,3,Throttle,valve angle 18,4,Alt. correc.,-50-10% ; 19,0,Additional signals 19,1,Engine speed,0-6800 rpm 19,2,Engine load,0-10 m/s 19,3,Additional,signals 19,4,Ign. timing,20Atdc-42Btdc ; 20,0,Operating Modes 20,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 20,2,Auto trans,Neutral/ON 20,3,Air cond.,AC High/Low 20,4,A/C Comp.,Compr ON/OFF ; 21,0,Lambda Control 21,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 21,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 21,3,Coolant temp,-40-125 deg/C 21,4,Lambda mode, ; 23,0,Throttle valve adaptation 23,1,Learning req.,100000 23,2,Min stop,72-95% 23,3,Emerg. stop,60-91% 23,4,Max stop,18-54% ; 24,0,Knock control 24,1,Engine speed,0-6800 rpm 24,2,Engine load,0-10 m/s 24,3,Ign timing,20Atdc-42Btdc 24,4,Sum of ret.,angle 0-36 ; 25,0,Charge Pressure control 25,1,Spec. load,3-8 m/s 25,2,Load correc.,0-8 m/s 25,3,Actual load,0.5-8 m/s 25,4,Valve cycle,0-99% ; 26,0,[Not listed in manual - Using default labels] ; 27,0,[Not listed in manual - Using default labels] ; 66,0,Cruise control 66,1,Road speed,km/h 66,2,Switch pos.,xxxx 66,3,Spec. speed 66,4,CCS switch,position ; 95,0,Basic functions 95,1,Idle speed,800-920 rpm 95,2,Engine load,0.5-1.5 m/s 95,3,Ign timing, 95,4,Coolant temp.,80-105 degC ; 97,0,[Not listed in manual - Using default labels] ; 98,0,Throttle Valve Matching/Calibration/Adaptation 98,1,Valve voltage,0-5V 98,2,Sender voltage,0-5V 98,3,Opr. mode, 98,4,Adapt mode,RUN/OK/ERROR ; 99,0,Lambda regulation 99,1,Engine speed,0-6800 rpm 99,2,Coolant temp,-40-125 deg/C 99,3,Lambda reg.,-10-10% 99,4,Lambda mode ; ;End of File
I've been putting some miles on the car and have come across an issue with it hitting a bit of a limit and cutting out at hight boost high rpm. If i drive it normally i can go through the rev range fine, but under high boost i do get some running issues in that its almost like the N75 solinoid is going on and off. it can cause the engine to stall which is fair enough given it would be asking for fuelling, ignition and boost pressure to operate, but if Boost is incosistent due to a spark issue or N75 issue..then its going to have issues. So after talking to a few people and doing some extensive googling, i have ordered a new N75 solinoid, 4x new ignition coilpacks and 4 new spark plugs. John newman had the same issue and it was resolved with new coilpacks. Seeing as mine are 20+ years old now, seems reasonable enough to change them. They are an item that rearely breaks but can get weaker, so if its not delivering the spark as effectivly at higher RPM then that would be an issue. Another issue i have is that my 90 degree reducer from the K03s to K04 charge pipe has popped off twice, this is because i had to trim it a little more as the K03 and K03s have a slightly different position and i essentially trimmed it a few mm too short on the charge pipe side. Ideally need a 68mm and 45mm 90 degree reducer as the k03s silenced turbo also has a different sizing to the K03 on the turbo outlet. i think the k03 was something like 50mm. Its not a big deal but something to sort. it'll be the end of the week until all the parts arrive, but its still very drivable in the mean time. some logging last night (not pushing too hard and not over 5000rpm) saw some good consistent 230+ BHP readings based on MAF g/s readings....so its obviously subjective. The one time it did run hard beyond 5000 it saw a 264 reading which was nice. if i can get that more consistenty then taking into account drive train losses etc, i would be fairly confident that the car has a good solid usable 230 + bhp.
Not much to report other than the N75 solinoid has been replaced with a new one and i put in a new turbo to charge pipe silicone reducer as its 70mm to 45mm from charge to turbo. the old one i trimmed down a bit too much and it popped off with all the boost. i've ordered a replacement OEM recirc valve as it made a good sound, the Forge one is good but maybe overkill Waiting on 4 coilpacks to arrive from the continent. hopefully i can just enjoy it then and see how much poweerrrrrr we are making
So as with all projects, there comes teething issues. This weekends issue was that the Altenator seems to have stopped working from what i can tell Normally i get about 13.5 volts on my volt guage in the car, but i noticed that it was sticking to about 12 and just under over the last 2 short drives. Then it spiked beyond the guage top range of 16v and then dropped down to 8v and the car ran out of power. I take the spare battery with me at the moment as i know its got something weird going on so i was able to get home. First thoughts are the voltage regulator on the Altenator as things were ok. They use 2 contact elements and they might be knacked. i re- did the wiring for the exciter wire when i re-did the loom so i'm happy that theres no corossion to worry about. From what i understand, if i ground the exciter wire, i should see the dash Battery light LED light up to prove that the exciter wire is working as expected. I know that the battery light is on at ignition and then goes out when the car starts. It also came on when the car voltage was about 9volts, so i would say the cluster is working as expected..hence pointing to the voltage regulator on the Altenator as the potential issue
yes earth the blue wire and the battery light should come on. make sure the alternator has good clean contact to its bracket, and from bracket to block, and box to gearbox and battery earth is good too. seen plenty of alt issues caused by everything being powdercoated up nice. looks great, but not so good for generating electricity
Tonight i removed the altenator and put it in the vice on my worktop. Took off the voltage regulator and checked it over. the diodes are worn and the shaft has some grooving in it but copper still showing.. might be too far gone, im not sure. Checked continuity on the exciter cable. All fine. Hooked up a battery charger positive to the exciter cable and negative to the body of the altenator. Positive multimeter to the positive nut on the altenator Negative multimeter to the negative battery charger cable / body of the altenator Used a impact driver on the belt pulley to spin it up - the driver goes to about 3000 rpm multi meter measured 0.179 v I would say that the altenator has had it but open to opinions.. @rubjonny thoughts? not sure if its worth replacing the voltage regularot or just get a new altenator all together... it is 20 years old after all IMG_20210419_211733 by Laxadams, on Flickr IMG_20210419_211724 by Laxadams, on Flickr IMG_20210419_211629 by Laxadams, on Flickr IMG_20210419_201347 by Laxadams, on Flickr IMG_20210419_201002 by Laxadams, on Flickr
Bite the bullet and buy a new one, went through rebuild on the mgf couple years ago, got an uprated one for £60 after trying to track bits down to sort it, plus you should have a guarantee too. Ebay showing £70-90 upwards, for new ones for mk4 golf 1.8t.
Yeah i've bought a refurbished Bosch unit to keep it like for like and in the budget. Wuro Car Parts had some different branded ones, but google came up with mixed reviews, so best to stay with Bosch i think. I get the feeling that the charge issue might have played a contributing factor to the misfire i had...i say this because when i fully charged the battery, it ran much better in those higher RPM ranges and i'd imagine that the coilpacks draw a chunk of current.
Great news... The alternator arrived today at 1pm..installed it by 1:20 and what a difference it was on start up. Nice smooth idle again, revved up lovely. Noticed that the coil pack earth screw was also slightly loose when I checked it, so tightened that up. Test drove it and boom...perfect! Goes all the way to the red line no issues. No cutting out and feels super powerful. New coilpacks are coming so I'm going to swap them over anyway..but for now it all looks good
Getting out an about IMG_20210423_221637_582 by Laxadams, on Flickr This is the crud that came out of the seats after one quick wet vac IMG_20210417_211943_195 by Laxadams, on Flickr testing tyres now.. these are the fronts, 8j and currently has a 195/45 pirelli p zero on it..im not suer it will have enough clearance so i might drop down to a 195/40 and then use the 195/45 on the rear IMG_20210427_142710_963 by Laxadams, on Flickr
I've got an arch roller if you want to try it out, 40 series stretched may be too harsh, I ran 195 50 15 on 8j rims on the caddy, was not nice. Pic looks Gorge-ous.
i put the fronts on tonight and theres no rubbing, it just looks weird because they are so big compared to the standard RA's I think the rears eing an 8.5 will either need a 205/40 or stick with the same 195/45 ... i hate trying to figure this stuff out i think i will need to roll the arches at some point, im considering rolling them, then chopping the plastic lip off on the arches..i think thats what people do anyway
Well, if you need the roller, I should be down the southwest end of may if want me to drop it off. Took me ages working stuff out with tyres, rolling radius and clearance when built one of my minis early 90s, had 13s on it way before it was the norm. Had to meg camber the caddy when 8j wheels arrived instead of 7s, that had major drop and I didn't roll the fronts, rears did rub when loaded mind.
