oh another top tip when working with these to get them to fit... get yourself a nice stanley knife and a blowtorch and use that to trim the plastic...red hot metal makes a much nicer job than a dremel through plastic
Doing some reading on the Air filter options and thats opened a can of worms! take into account the car is at maximim putting out about 195bhp (K03 turbo) so were not talking big bhp performance monster. It seems that the standard pannel filters are perfectly good and do a great job. Cotton filters get you a bit more noise but no noticable performance gains. oiled filters cause issues with the MAF so lets avoid that The cotton ones are about 4 x the price. and i'm not sure its worth the cost for a bit more sound when the exhaust sounds great as it is...but i miss the diverter valve noises already
most people just chuck the ignition amp in the scuttle, works fine as gets decent airflow. though maybe you'll have less now you put a full scuttle cover in the alternative is convert to later type coilpacks, use an aum/auq/etc coilpack repair harness: https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-...m-replacement-for-cars-with-oil-level-sensor/
yeah its been fine where it is so far, just thought i might aswell put it back in some faster air flow. The coil pack repair looks easy enough, i spose i'd have to change the cam cover to suit changed coilpacks too. Also guessing R8 ones are the thing to go for?
yeah I beleive so, you'll need to crimp micro timer pins on the coilpack loom for a nice OE job or you can just splice it to the old spark module wiring. not convinced super mega coilpacks make much of a difference over good quality oem ones for a fairly standard 20v but its not like I care enough about 20v engines to look into it in any detail. I just make looms
i'm doing some searching for a guide. splicing would seem the easier option and just re-wrap the loom. Would the pins need to go back to the ECU if completely doing it?
yeah you remove all the old coilpack and spark module wiring right to ecu and drop the new loom in its place. if you make a nice plate to mount the module in the scuttle you're fine, or swap to an agu airbox even. if the existing coilpacks are workign fine no need to mess about
Nice guide here: saving it for future referance http://web.archive.org/web/20101114063904/http://www.audigeeks.com/forums/index.php?topic=3181.0
Just for info, according to this one I found AGU is slightly different pinout through the spark module if you're going for the 'join wires at module' approach rather than replace the lot with a VW repair harness. Same pinout plug 1-4 on the ECU connector though:
if the pin connection is nto a huge issue then using the full loom will be the way forward for sure. splicing would be the back up option
Just adding in a note for myself that the pads required for G60 brakes to clear the RA's withouth spacers are part number: JZW698151F Thanks to Adlai for posting this useful info in the club facebook page this morning. now wondering if there is an alternative pad for the s2 calipers to do the same job
Well it appears that i have a leaking raditor. Could do a straight swap or go for something a bit more fancy? i'd like something that has protection over the fin ends at the top, it look smuch neater that way. Any suggestions? currently using a 16v rad, i didnt like the G60 or corrado pipe setup
I'm in the process of trying out a Seat Ibiza - 1.6 radiator from a 2008, core is 650mm x 330mm x25mm so will take 2 12" fans, has fin protection top and bottom but has a top over drain plug so that potentially might not be what you are needing, i'm sort of trying it out with BMW expansion tank which has also has a over drain. Will get some photos later on my thread
I like what you have done. the t5 intercooler looks spot on too! I think those types of intercooler are a good option but if you run the quad light grill i don't think they allow for the spots to clear...atleast this is what i have heard from intercoolers mounted higher up. I dont have use of a welder so that makes customisation a little more difficult, hats off to you for the job you have done so far, it looks very tidy!
Yeah that intercooler is fixed more for single light wont have clearance, I needed one wide enough so that the ends could clear the rad, not a huge fan of how angled the mk2 set up is standard. You could still run that a similar style rad with a low mount cooler as you got with the ends on the side. What rad have you currently got?
Just a 16v rad with a single slimline fan and temps have always been good. Its just not the prettiest set up. I sourced the leak to the lower temp sensor, looks like i never put enough thread tape on it when i installed it, so i removed it and re did it all, now seems all fine.
Spanner in the work time.. come home from a cycle lastnight to find this: No point in replacing the screen unless i get the rot under the screen sorted. I had a quote few months back for £900 from a well known VW body shop to have the bay re-sprayed, the bonett done and the rot sorted. Might just go ahead with it.
I took the change on Saturday morning to get busy and start prepping the car for some work: Took the wings off and cleaned off the wax with a hot gun and some paper towels, then wiped down with brake cleaner to remove the remaining wax. I have not tackled the sealer with anything, i am tempted to wire wheel it all, epoxy prime and then spray it with raptor black for a long lasting durable weather proof finish. I dont care if it doesn't look factory in that beige colour, more worried about it lasting and looking clean and tidy. A couple of rust spots found on the near side, i guess this is typical as this is the gutter side and more prone to salt intrustion?
