Sorry mate, but I'm not sure what part you mean. Are you talking about the ECU? Remember that my Golf is a RHD, so if its different to yours, the parts under the scuttle tray may be on the opposing side. Thanks for your help though. If I can find the part, it's probably worth looking into.
I believe Alen is talking about the TCI-H unit, the wee plastic box screwed to the top of the ECU housing (Technically its an FEI unit on a 16v) If so it can be taken from any MK2 that has one, they're all the same. The only other thing it can be is the FEI unit, which can be taken from any 16v KR car. 'They' say the early ones are have a bit more agressive ignition map, dunno how true that is though.
Thanks guys. Has anyone else had problems with their FEI unit? Whats does the FEI unit do exactly? Could this be the cause of the starting issue?
Fully Electronic Ignition, basically it controls the ignition advance, and it will either work or it wont. It does however have an engine temp sensor on the side of the head, as well as a vacuum feed so its worth checking both of those
Thats for the help rubjonny. Sometimes my car will start almost immediately, so assuming it is fully working, are there any other possible causes? I keep doubting the possibility that the accumulator will fix this problem. I will check the vacuum feed for obvious splits or dodgy seals. Is the temperature sensor on the head cheap and easy to replace. It may be worth me changing it, just to eliminate it as the cause. Thanks again.
They told me too, that thing work or not. But they were not right, becouse the mechanic have make some measure and it was that part. When mechanic have made change for a part which works my car start normaly...
if the lift pump supplies fuel to the fuel pump..... then upon switching ignition off. then the lift pump will create a back pressure keeping the fuel pump non return valve off its seat. Hence decaying fuel pressure...but a piston type fuel accumulator (with undamaged seals) will maintain the pressure and bias the non return valve poppet closed.
Have you sorted this now, danielhewer? I've had this problem for about 2 years now and it's recently got worse. Car starts fine from hot, but struggles from about 15 minutes after switching off. It used to start fine cold too, but now it's being a PITA with that! Tried out the priming thing with about 5 turns of the ignition key (and the associated 5 whirring noises from the fuel pump) and this seemes to do the trick. However I am so fed up of this now I'm going to change the accumulator and the 2 lines, and the non return valve at the weekend. Think I might also change the CSV too as now it's being a PITA starting from cold - the cheap on on listed on ETKA is the correct one for my KR right, not the tres expensive one? (I think that's for the PL?) Rubjonny, when you say 2 noises, one for the lift pump and one for the fuel pump, what do you mean by this? Is the lift pump the accumulator...no, probably not? Is there another pump (this time in the fuel tank?) that I should hear a noise from, and if so, how do you identify which is which noise?
the lift pump is inside the fuel tank and the main pump is under the car. You can't really hear them seperately as they both operate at the same time, but if you put your ear to the round metal plate under the boot carpet you should hear the lift pump when you turn the key. Alternatively you could unplug the main pump and turn the key to see if you can hear the lift pump prime
OK, thanks for the advice re. ignition switch. For the post: Basically my starting problem has gotten worse at the same time as I have noticed the engine firing as I back the key off from the start position to the standard running position, which made Rubjonny think it was the ignition switch. Certainly figures, and a new one of those is 25 from VAG unlike all of the accumulator stuff which was over 4 times that including the replacement pipes etc.! Missed the next day order deadline by 10 mins. so it wont be here until Friday [:^(] but will keep you posted, but does anyone have any hints on how to get a dodgy ignition switch to work in the meantime - jiggle the key around a bit perhaps, or can I take out the connector plug at the back of the switch and bridge some pins to achieve the normal running position, then bridge some more pins to get her to start up? Thanks. P.S. If this is the problem, then I think the car should bump start fine if things get that bad tomorrow!?
OK, replaced ignition switch, seemed to do the trick at the time, started right up, then again a few hours later, then again a few hours later (properly from cold this time too), but come this morning back to the same - back to only firing when backing off the key to the standard running position. Damn it! Gotta take the whole lot to pieces again any way as I have some trim from the column switches rubbing on the wheel, and it also feels like it needs some more grease on the bearings as I cleaned it all up but forgot to re-grease! Plus the horn goes off continuously, so think I've put something back wrong, plus it wasn't right in the first place as I didn't even have to remove a lock washer. Not a successful weekend, but I cleaned and polished the car up so at least she looks nice now
you guys need to change the coil. i just fixed mine and it had very similar symptoms. was sure it was fuel related but i checked everything even stripped the metering head. the car wouldnt start. only after about 15minutes of trying. and i had lumpy idle and flat spots through the rev range. i was reading this thread this morning thinking i was going to have to go down the accumulator/ fuel pump route. but i took a chance on the coil first. 15min job and the car fires up straight away and no flat spots honestly give it a try. 40 from gsf
Thanks for the info., but my car will start in much less than 15 minutes, doesn't have lumpy idle and there are no flat spots through the rev range so I don't think it's that. Have been told it could well be the injectors: From a totally cold start after it's been left for a few days it rarely starts on the turn of key (but sometimes it will!), it usually takes 3 or 4 goes and it only fires as you are backing off of the key (hence changing ignition switch). When it does fire, it's fine, idles fine etc., but there are huge amounts of fumes left drifting across my driveway! Is this consistent with the injectors leaking in fuel, i.e. too rich? Also, does it make sense to assume it fires as you back off the key because it's stopped pumping fuel into the cylinders then, so at that point it's slightly less rich? On a side note, it starts "fine" (i.e. on the first turn of the key after a few of seconds) from hot, or if it's been left for a period of hours rather than days. So, whose vote goes on me getting new Merc injectors Also, have heard the old ones can be a PITA to get out - any tips/guides anywhere? Thanks guys.
When it's been sat for a day or more try this. 1. Pull out the fuel pump relay 2. Take out the spark plugs 3. Have a look down the bores with a torch - you may see a bit of shimmering from puddles of fuel - especially if you shake the car. 4. Turn it over with the plugs out - look for clouds of fuel vapour from the plug holes 5. When the clouds of vapour look thinner, put the plugs back in. 6. Put the fuel pump relay back 7. It should start first time now, and if it does, your injectors need cleaned or changed.
Thanks for that, sounds like an easy check. Started fine earlier on after it'd been left for only 8 hours whilst I was at work, in the rain, wind and cold, so I'm thinking it will be something like this. I'll check after I come back from holiday
I'm having the exact same problem at the moment. I have changed my injectors for the merc ones, with no improvement. When cold it's a pain to start but once started it's fine and will restart without a problem. Priming the fuel system doesn't make any difference. I'm currently blaming the fuel mixture control plunger in metering head as sticking when cold, most of the time.
My starting problems appear to be sorted! After having multiple goes at cleaning out the metering head mixture control plunger with carb cleaner, it has had three good cold starts. Fingers crossed it has solved my problem. I've also replaced the battery for a really big heavy duty 96 jobbie, replaced the positive cabling from the alternator, the cable to the alternator and up graded all the negative cabling under the bonnet to ensure there is a minimal volt drop. But I don't believe these mods fix the starting problems, they just make it easier to start when it does play up.
These are the same problems I was having about six weeks ago. I changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm and it seemed a little bit better, then back to starting first time. However after leaving it a couple of days at the weekend, it's back to what yours sounds like.
I changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm about 5 months ago so I doubt it's that at fault, I'll get round to taking out the plugs and looking for fuel sometime soon, been way too busy at the weekends and it's too dark in the evenings! I think it's gonna be this though, as it does seem to run incredibly rich after a cold start where the car's been left for a good few days. Last week, like I said, it started on the button after being left for 8 hours in the cold, wind and rain, and the week before that when I was out it started half a dozen times in the evening; once from cold and 5 or so times from hot with no real problems.
