MK3 16v + Vento 1.8cl = vento 16v any advice welcome

Discussion in 'Mk3' started by mrgr_18, Jun 1, 2015.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    depends on the kit, GSF used to sell a GTI 4 line kit which did the calipers but missed out the beam flexis. other kits would be for drums which have fronts and beam flexis only. the drums and wheel cylinders dont move at all so those have hard lines, the moving parts are on the inside.

    in short, you need a 6 line kit matched to the front calipers, pre-96 with 280mm have different front flexi hoses to post-96 with 288
     
  2. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Cheers dude I'll reference back to this when I come to order. What about the pads are all mk3 280mm brake setups the same pads?
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah discs and pads all same, just pic brand you prefer
     
  4. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Cheers mate.

    If anyone on the forum needs an adz engine and box drop me a message. I've thrown it on the bay, if it's not gone in a couple of weeks i will pull any spares worth keeping for me or my mk1 mates and weigh the rest in. Ecu available as well. Loom will be available at the end in case I need to nick any of the connectors for my 16v loom
     
  5. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Managed to have a good day at the pedals and hydraulics today. Realised changing the shifter over that the plastic part 1h0 711 260 that is part of the shifter mechanism must have snapped on removal from the car. Can't find one online so I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow to get one hopefully. Need to source some of those round metal clips that hold the heat shield in place too as I don't reckon they are all going to go again.

    Managed to snap the plastic piece that holds the servo to the brake pedal part number 1h2 721 169 getting the old servo out after a quick Google looks like that is a tps or dealer part also. Managed to get it out of the pedal eventually.

    Rear left sub frame engine mount looks like it has a bit of rot on the weld it so going to get that out and have a proper look. Looks like I might be using the golf subframe after all but I'll keep my power steering rack off the vento as that's only just been disconnected so less potential for moisture to have gotten in.

    Looking very much like a lot of it is going to start coming together by next weekend. Will be plenty of snagging to do like new brake lines and rear beam drama but can hopefully have the new 5 stud setup ready at the front with new callipers and engine mounted.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
  6. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Good news guys if anyone breaks either of those 2 pieces tps can still get them. Local Dealer was not too helpful, should have phoned the seat dealer thinking about it as they have been really helpful with my mk1 leon cupra. Plus the abf was fitted to some seats. Local specialist said try tps 30 quid all in.

    I've managed to find the rigid pipes on the power steering rack and the high pressure line on here http://www.powersteeringstore.co.uk

    Vw apparently discontinued the power steering hoses in 2012 for mk3 golfs so anyone who follows knows

    Just need to find the low pressure return line or get one made.

    Suspension turned up today 2 weeks early which is both good and annoying as I'm not ready for it. Doh!
     
  7. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    I'm going to look for it on Google but does anyone know what this is. It looks really familiar and I can't place it 20200928_201559.jpg
     
  8. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Build update we managed to get the engine seated on the new mounts. Found out that euro messed up 5 years ago and sold me the wrong clutch so my mate can have that for his mk1 as it looks like it's for the smaller boxes. The clutch was fine when it came out the golf so that can ride for now for the sake of getting the engine in. Fuel pump and sender fitted



    20200928_181742.jpg 20200928_183214.jpg


    After taking a step back and thinking about the low pressure side of the power steering system the hoses are fine it's the rigid metal pipe that's wrecked so I'm going to see if the local exhaust shop can bend me a piece of stainless in to the same shape and re- use the hoses. Will just come up with a way to mount to use the existing mounting point on the cross member. Subframe will need to come down anyway as one of the roll bar bolts appears to be cross threaded so that will give me access to the power steering rack. Going to try and treat some more surface rust underneath while the heat shield is all off too.

    Finished swapping the shifter tower over and connected one of the lines to the box the other one needs that plastic clip that broke. Should be getting that tomorrow.

    Clutch slave and master fitted. Haven't linked them yet so there's less things in my way.

    Think I've been sent the wrong throttle cable but we are a little bit off needing that.

    All the bay and front solid brake lines look really good so they can stay for now but need to redo the lines going rear.

    My mate who's working on it with me is an absolute hero there's been a few moments where I haven't been able to find the answer online easily and he just knows what to do. Get yourself a good car buddy these things go far easier!
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    that bracket is one of the supports from round the back of the inlet manifold :)
     
  10. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    I knew I recognised it from somewhere! Cheers brother
     
  11. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Does anyone know if the plastic brake pedal clip has a trick for installation. Can we hell figure out how to get that back in with the pedals on the car. Most of the previous threads on it just seem to go cold.

    If the pedal box needs to come out then that's steering column out which I would rather not do if someone has a trick please let me know
     
  12. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    I'm thinking a zip tie round the steering column to hold the spring up and then sneak the clip in behind it. Think I'm going to try that with a clear head tomorrow.
     
  13. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Can't sleep been googling around. Bentley and Haynes seems to think you remove the pedals rather than the whole pedal box by the looks of it. I'll have to take a look at the old pedal box from the golf and see how feasible this is i will update. Sorry for starting a new thread but this has messed me up more than anything so far
     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    all elsa says is to fit clip into pedal, line up servo rod to clip, press pedal.

    If you dont have room to slip the clip into the pedal loosen brake servo nuts off but not all the way, then you can push it forward a bit
     
  15. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Servo is off dude completely. I'm going to have another dance with it this morning once I've got my bad belly from the treatment out of the way. It's being able to see what you are doing. I'm going to see if I can do it in situ once more. Then move on to taking the pedal off the box.
     
  16. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    If there is a way to do it on the car then I can't figure it out. Zip tie method i believe would work but you would need considerable luck or a tool i don't have or didn't think of.

    Haynes rates removing the pedal in situ as 5 spanners difficulty. After googling round it looks like it is slightly easier on a lhd as you have slightly more room to get at the securing clip. Even if I could have got the clip off there was no way it was going back on.

    After longer than I would care to admit just trying to get the clutch reset spring off the clutch pedal without snapping anything I committed to the steering column coming out to get the pedal box out. Just need to drift the 2 headless bolts out in the morning as needed to get back home.

    I needed a win halfway through that endeavour and to give my back a rest from lying under the dashboard for a couple of hours so i put the shift linkage back on and good news I can find all gears and reverse.

    I wish I knew how bad this job was before I broke the clip. If you need to remove the brake pedal from the servo either spend the 30 quid on VW tool 3289 or make it yourself. Do not snap this clip unless your scrapping the car golf-mk3-530.png

    Advice to anyone who needs to work under the dash that I got a while ago was just take the 2 minutes to remove the seat and bring a cushion for the seat bracket that is almost designed to be where your spine is.

    Also anyone doing this job. Embrace the pain and just take the column out carefully. Save yourself a lot of googling and blind faith that it can be done in situ. IMG-20200930-WA0011.jpeg
     
  17. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Right pedal box back in and column back in. For reference the clutch centre spring that looks like it goes onto the fire wall it doesn't, it connects to the back of the pedal box on the fire wall. Didn't need to disconnect that. Or forget to put it back on with the pedal box out.

    Even though everywhere says it can be done by only unbolting stuff under the dash. There is a bolt on the engine bay side to the left of the steering column rubber boot that holds the brace for the pedal box support bracket. You've already removed the column what's one more bolt. This makes it a million times easier to maneuver the pedal box out.

    Also if you do need to fit the clutch centering spring on a mk3 golf or vento there's all sorts of crazy things online for this. Zip tie method is no good unless I'm missing something. Circlip plier method wasn't cutting it for me either. I placed it on the firewall side with the pedal side above the slot it goes in and used a long flat headed screwdriver that doubles as a good pry bar and compressed it down using the pedal box dowel that the pedals are on and it clicked into place.
     
  18. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    sorry I've been quiet guys hit a slight bump in the road. Found some serious tin worm in the passenger side wheel arch. This has ballsed up my plans somewhat. Got my mate who's a welder coming to sort it out on Saturday. Unfortunately I need to get the car out of the garage on Sunday as my mate is back from holiday and needs his shop back. I've found more tin worm than I was expecting but it's not terminal. Just might have to allow more money for metal work and paint than I was planning. I'll soldier on with getting the mechanical side done for now and wire wheel and treat any areas that are just surface rust. Got a couple of plates needed underneath as when it was under sealed originally the vent/ drain holes got blocked up and I haven't noticed until the rot has hit.
    20201006_193440.jpg
    Bearings are getting pressed in the morning for the front hubs. Callipers due back any day. Building the drive shafts up tomorrow.

    To get the engine running I've got new manifold gaskets and a front coolant flange gasket on the way.

    Still need to source a

    lower manifold bolt N 10225902 if anyone knows a UK supplier for this i would be very grateful

    Bolt for what the diagram is calling a vibration damper, long allen headed bolt just trying to figure out which one it is as it's got multiple engine codes on the diagram so I'll have to try and reference each number online with a clear head tomorrow unless anyone knows its number or where i can source one.

    Still need to source a replacement power steering return line but that will go again for now.

    Once I have the front back together I can focus on getting it running. This will make it far easier than pushing it in and out of the garage or working in the colder and wetter months outside. I found the aftermarket immobiliser box in the mess of wiring of the cabin side loom so potentially the donor doesn't have a factory one. Still need to check the ecu code.

    Not too far off mechanically. Another week or 2 if I had the shop space uninterrupted a bit longer. Once it's running I'm going to be selling off any spares I can to try and raise some money for the trip to the body shop it has in its future. Realistically it will at least need the sills and the plates underneath doing before even entertaining a mot. I know a decent welder and mechanic unfortunately I don't know any body work people personally so going to ask around locally. See if I can do any sort of skill swap or other deal through a friend of a friend etc. As long as they do good work I think I'll be happy. Not after a show winning car after as said previously would like to daily her again but just not as a rat look thing.

    Managed to find repro wings and sills. Debating whether to go for full repro wing or see about getting repair panel welded in as it's the bit below the trim. Didn't realise you could still get the wings from ecp as a forum member advised and I've found new sills on heritage and ebay.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2020
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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  20. mrgr_18 Forum Member

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    Rubjonny I'm lost for words thanks for all the help.

    I've ordered a 120mm one for now I'll have to measure the other one when I get back up there tomorrow and get the closest size.

    Not gonna lie i lost the faith a bit when I hit that rot but now I've slept on it I'm feeling a bit better. Will just have to get saving.

    If anyone else is checking in on this thread the ADZ engine is going the scrappy next week so if you need it pm me. After I've stripped any useful bits of course. I know from personal experience finding the throttle bodies are a pain so I'll pull that too in case it helps anyone down the line.
     

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