thats your diagnostics port, the diagnostics jumper sits on the fusebox and is where the grey/white and yellow wire from port plus the grey from immo box both plug into. red/white and brown you can tap to your ciggy lighter yep. thick black (brown) is the earth, can put it to the stud on the A pillar. thin black wire can be snipped off the green plug, thats your ignition live for immobiliser but the pin on the green plug isnt what supplies it instead its fed by the other black wire out the back which you snipped. you could de-pin the black pin from the green plug then fit it to the mk2 D plug. usually theres a black wire on this spare with empty plug housing fitted which the pin will fit straight into you can either tape the chip to your reader coil, or fit coil to the mk2 ignition and get a mk3 chip key cut to your locks then swap chip over. you could even re-tumble the mk2 using the mk3 locks if you wanted
Gearbox is off engine ready for clutch change. Had to order some 12 point spline sockets for the bolts though In the meantime Ralph went and picked this up. I think it's a Jetex but it came from Facebook. New old stock and it looks lovely. I think it will sound pretty good too
Shiny bits and new tools, what a day! Beats buying paint brushes and door stops definitely. Handy to have a set of those bits, glad I took mine Wednesday, you never know what you find. Dont suppose theres a mk3 system too?
I had one of those Jetex systems with a 4 branch on my 8 valve, it always sounded nice it was the thing I missed most on that car when I sold it.
There is a stainless steel exhaust and manifold on my 8V and I absolutely detest it - I’m sure someone spent a lot of money on it but my God it’s vile and I hate the sound it makes inside and outside the car
New clutch fitted yesterday. Straightforward but the torque recommendation for the pressure plate to crank bolts is 60nm plus a 90degree turn. I physically couldn't get the full 90degree turn! They are very tight! Still, plenty of thread lock on so they won't be going anywhere. 85000 miles of filth inside the flywheel also takes a fair bit of cleaning off too Timing belt next, need to order it up.
A while ago @dodgy was good enough to give me a loom from an early Mk3, a J reg, so very early. I'd like to use this to avoid the immobiliser issues of the late loom. However, I cannot get any of the wiring to relate to @rubjonny 's excellent fusebox/wiring diagrams and lists. So, questions. Is the loom usable on my engine? (1997) And, to start, some pics of connectors with wiring colours. What are they please? wht/red and wht/brn yel/grn and black blk/blu brn/yel blu/gry blu/wht grn red brn/blk red/wht possibly lambda? br blk
you cant use that loom with your engine and ECU, its for the 2E code which runs a totally different injection system. To make it work you would need the inlet manifold, AFM, inlet boot, throttle body and distributor
if you also source the other bits I mention yeah it'll work, as its an early one you need the inlet type with 5th injector in it
Nope, I think use the loom from the engine and chip the immobiliser. Dodgy had given me one that should do the job.
no need tyo chip anything, just wire in the immo box. the reader will even fit your ignition lock and get a chipped key cut to your locks and have it working. or just tape key to reader, then if you park somewhere dodgy take the key. another option is fix reader behind dash somewhere convenient near ignition, put chip in some kind of fob. only have to hold it to reader till it starts then it can be moved away again
Right then, stripped down the loom. It was easier than expected. I had to snip seven wires (which I have carefully labelled in case they need connecting back together) and some earth wires. The only two I snipped that go to F, G1 or G2 were the outside air temperature wires. Am I right in thinking these are simply for an outside temperature sensor and not anything to do with the air box or AFR? What I am left with are what I believe to be F, G1 and G2 as below. And this little foursome. Not sure what they are as yet but if you know please jump in.
yes the outside temp red/white and brown/white are for the MFA, if you havent got one you can ignore. If you do decide to retrofit you need the mk2 sensor anyway as mk3 incompatible yellow plug goes to Z/1 which is injector power big brown is Z/2 which is main earth to fusebox, you dont need that as the wire is in the mk2 headlight loom and has a bunch of earths from the headlight loom tapped to it so you cant easily use the mk3 one even if you wanted. What you do with the main earth is snip off the 2 wires for the mk3 coil and ecu, then extend ecu wire off to battery. then for coil earth either do the same or bin it off if you're converting to the mk2 spark coil and module blue is speed signal to ECU, dont belive it makes any difference so dont worry about it. If you decide to wire it in this goes to W/1 on fusebox but you need GTI clocks to get the signal last small brown is diagnostics, that goes to matching plug on immo box or straight to port if you decide to get it coded out of ecu
So talking of the VAGCOM port. There is a thin red/white wire which comes out of the VAGCOM and is spliced into a thicker red/white wire The two thicker red/white wires then go to these two plugs. What are they and are they needed?
thats the ciggy lighter, just snip the vagcom wires off the mk3 loom and tap them into the mk2 loom. if you splice to the section that goes between 3 pin plug on dash and the lighter the whole vagcom loom then becomes seperate from main dash loom. plus easier to solder it up on the bench
Sorry john, I'm utterly confused, but getting there, wire by wire. White plug is for lighter - remove from VAGCOM socket and splice red/white wire into Mk2 lighter instead? Blue plug - remove altogether? What was it for?
