OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. Andy947 Forum Addict

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    So, 409 relay into the mk2 fuse box with the trigger to G1/3 and it works, trigger to prime the pump on ignition on.

    Doesn't do it every time, I guess due to ecu logic etc. Can't confirm the trigger comes on during cranking or running yet, but I guess it'll work fine.
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    cool I will add this info to the beginning of the thread :thumbup:
     
  3. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    Hi all

    Has anyone else used the secondary coolant pump used on the BAM engines?. Im thinking about using it if poss, just thinking about the wiring.

    Could i run a wire from T14a/13 to say A1/07 on the mk2 ( CE2 ) fusebox. Using the same power feed/relay as the radiator fan after run switch. Or do i need to try use the fan control unit from the Audi TT loom i used as donor.

    Thanks in advance of any info.
     
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  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    A1/7 is just ignition live so that wont help you, you need a control relay. the Audi AMK/BAM relay has a built in timer so if you get that and the loom its simple just give it a live qand earth, plus ign live to the trigger pins job done :)

    If tyou have a mk2 rad fan after-run relay then you could use that just have to mount the thermoswitch near the turbo so it triggers, or just earth it and see if the pump stops on its own but i think it will just carry on runnign till the thermoswitch cuts out
     
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  5. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    Thank you very much for the response. Very helpful.
    I have the fan control unit and some wiring but i dont think i have the rest of the loom.
    The control relay would be in the car or engine bay, do you know?. I have a relay panel from the TT that holds like the fuel pump relay and relay #100 etc. Would it be on there do you think?.

    Thanks again for the info.
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'm not sure where the relay is, if you have any part numbers pm them to me and I'll check :)
     
  7. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    "ECU relay notes:
    Regarding brown plug T6/1 this is a little complicated so bear with me! To start with if you have an AGU style loom which didn't originally have an ECU relay in the engine bay then run this to your ECU relay power output, G1/10 for CE2 or relay pin 87 for CE1, simples. If you have a later AUM/AUQ style loom with an ECU relay in the engine bay then you will need to run this pin to an ignition live source, D/2, D/7 for CE1 or G1/10 for CE2. This is because the ECU relay on these cars is triggered by the ecu, and it will need a straight ign live feed to switch it on so it will then know to trigger the relay. Weird I know! With this type of loom you have 2 choices with the ECU relay, either leave the factory relay box in place or move the relay to your fusebox. If you move the relay the old purple trigger wire from the ECU will need to go to the ECU relay pin 85 on CE1 or G1/7 on CE2."

    So T6/1 goes to G1/10 for both types of loom?. Im not sure if im reading this correct. I have a ECU relay in the engine bay, so as im leaving it in, i dont need to change anything?. Only go to G1/7 IF you move the relay yes?.

    Thanks in advance of any info. ( I found the relay for the above question, thanks for the pointers. )
     
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  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    'It depends'

    if you have no ecu relay then you can use this to power your ecu, i.e. in an AGU loom. in your case its a DBW type loom with its own ECU relay you have 2 options, chop the relay out and use the factory socket wioth a 109 relay and run the MK4 socket wires to G1/10 and G1/7, or keep the relay box and give it an ignition live feed. You can use G1/10 if you fit an ECU relay but there is no need on most as its just a switched feed rthat is required and has no load on it, so G1/4 or G2/4 would do (I'd use G2/4 as its fused)

    I'll edit the 1st post to reflect this actually as its a typo! obv you cant have the ecu switched live to G1/10 if you also have the ecu switched trigger to G1/7 plus a 109 relay as it cant turn on unless it gwets ign live to T6/1, and it wont get a switched feed to t6/1 if you run with the 109 relay as the ecu needs to be switched on first before it will switch on the relay. FAIL :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2014
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  9. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    Thank you, was doing my nut a bit trying to work it out. As i am gonna leave the ecu relay in place ill just connect to G2/4 as advised.

    ( You have no idea how you have helped me over the last 4 months building this loom for my mk2 conversion. If your ever out Norfolk way, give me a shout ill buy you a drink [:D] )

    Thanks again
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    no problem, sorry for the mixup :lol:
     
  11. DanGolf111 New Member

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    Hi I've got a 1.3 mk2 with ce1 i was wondering if you could Shed some light on the wiring, how difficult is the splicing compared to ce2? Im looking into the pd route or the 20vt route if this helps, and will be using a complete donor car.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its all covered in the first post ;)
     
  13. benthejettaman Forum Member

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    hi bud whats the difference between t10 orange pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 (Tach signal from ecu via tach adaptor to G1 pin 12) taken from the other 1.8t thread and t10 orange pin 9 in both threads they are for the rev counter
     
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  14. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    In my Audi wiring diagram for the 1.8t 20v it says (T10x is orange plug)
    T10x pin 2 is from "ECU to T32 plug pin 25." * Only models with on-board computer *
    T10x pin 9 is "Connection (engine speed signal), in dash panel wiring harness"

    So maybe pin 2 is from the ECU to tell the on board computer the revs and pin 9 is from the ECU to the dash/rev counter.

    Hope this helps
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
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  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    pin 2 on the orange plug is mpg signal as per my first post, never rev counter. the other thread is wrong is all, it was early days on the 20v wiring front. the info was corrected a few pages in, but sicne the thread got a bit messy plus all the pictures are gone I made this one with everything I lhave earnt since that thread was started :)
     
  16. k-dogg New Member

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    I posted this in a random thread by accident earlier, duh!
    Hi, im doing an auq into mk1 with ce1 fusebox, just looking a bit of clarity on a few parts;
    I have an ecu relay but cant see a 2 pin plug? only T10e has 2 wires in a 10 pin plug but they match the blk/red and wht/yel for brake switch
    t6 brown - pin 1 has two black wires, is one of these ecu power? do i wire this to pin 87 of the ecu relay so it is on with the coils?
    also my t14 has half the wires a different colour and nothing on pin 10 is this most likely just colour difference? does pin 10 need connected to g1 if it was never used?

    thanks, this is inevitably the first of many posts!
     
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  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the 2 pin plug is for later ecu and/or those with ecu relay in a box in the engine bay and is in the engine bay not behind the fusebox, trace the loom from your ecu relay box and you'll find the plug it only has 1 wire in it and is a fat plug square 1 end and round on the other. dont get confused with the SAI plug this is a fair bit longer and is round the front of the engine with 2 wires

    t6/1on some has 2 wires, 1 for the ecu and the other runs to the ecu relay socket though is unused on most if not all. SDee my ecu relay notes on this one you'll need to give t6/1 an ignition live feed not ecu relay power regardless of if you keep the stock mk4 ecu relay or relocate it behind the fusebox

    dont worry too much about the wire colours only the pin locations are important. sometimes the colours differ either side of the plug on the same car! pin 10 is coil live for cars without an ecu relay, for those with an ecu relay its moved to the 2 pin plug above
     
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  18. rep

    rep Forum Member

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    This is one half the plug your looking for...if your ecu relay is still in the black box it comes out of the loom not far under it. Black box "may" have two relays in it, one is for the sai and the other the ecu. This plug connects the two halfs of the loom together, one on the engine loom and one on the bay loom. Good luck
    08042011208.jpg
     
  19. k-dogg New Member

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    cool cheers, I found it in the end but hadnt considered it the one i was looking for although its been part of my stripped loom i've starred at for ages! It has a pretty thick red white wire going to it from the ecu relay.
    next question... do i still need to connect pin 8 (blk/pur) of the t14 to the pin87 ecu relay if i have the relay connect as described later in the guide?
    and what is alternator pin DFM?
     
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  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    most if not all ECU relay equipped cars will not use pin 8 for anything as the coils are fed via the 2 pin plug rather than the T10/14a plug. but if in doubt check the ecu side of the plug, if theres nothing in that socket you can ignore it :thumbup:

    DFM is the 2nd pin on the alternator, some ECU have this wire some dont. it stands for 'digital field monitor' if you care enough to google it :lol:
     
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