oil temps creeping up in traffic - Still got the problem. any suggestions

What's the rating of the switch terminal on your twin pole sender?

How was the oil pressure gauge reading when the buzzer was sounding?

Also, I can't help thinking your cooling system is a bit marginal anyway. Is the radiator a known good one, and GTI spec? When my oil was V hot the water temp was still normal-ish. When I put a butchered thermostat in the oil temps dropped about 10 degrees, but with the extra cooler, it was too cold for daily running (less than 70*c).

Has your car got an MFA in it, or is it just the basic driver dash?

 

Mike,
The 5bar double poll senders have a oil switch (NC) rating of around 0.4bar, however this was not used. The OE blue top oil sw was used instead. The issue occurs even with the indicated oil pressure at 3-5-4bar and you have been idling for some, a condition that I experienced when parked making cal adjustments and having to rev the engine post 2K rpm. Normally I would think that the 1.8bar switch (NO)may be responsible as it may be losing pressure feed. This is a problem if the oil dynamic system.
Regarding the calibration settings, it would have to be very badly executed to influence this issue, and in any case the car would have crap drivablity. This is area that should be well covered anyway. Once the engine was stopped for a few momonets then the problem went away.
Water temp indication suggested less than half on the gauge and the car is a driver so no MFA.
OE radiator and fan arrangement is not a problem in my opinion. It would be if it had a cowless fan.

NC = Normally closed
NO = Normally open.

 

Alan where did you get your thermostatic sandwich plate from please? and what oil filter are you using, I'm not usre if a standard one will fit with the sandwich plate, may hit the cross member (2E bottom end). Also does it come with an extended fitting?

 

YB racing

 

the pressure is more than i expected, when it would idle at 1k ish rpm, it always read over 2 bar when warm

 

any ideas on the PN or where to get the correct sender

 

Danster's shed, probably

 

DAN!!

why does he never turn up when you need him...

 

Sup You need to be cooler Alan!

 

ah there he is!

 

ill give that a try, not sure TBH

 

where does a mk2 driver take engine temp from?

I still have the high oil temp problem, when I drive the car (fast or slow, as long as its moving), all temps are fine( oil around 95 ish, water at the first mark, which is the norm for my car), then stop in traffic within 5 mins the oil temp is 130c and the water is almost up to the 2nd mark, then the buzzer will sound for a second or so. the oil pressure remains at a minimum of 3.5 bar, as the car idles at 1.5k rpm. the water temp never reads very high, only just over half way on the gauge.

the car has a 8v gti radiator and fan setup and the engine uses a std GTI thermostat and still has the oil/water heat exchange unit, oil system has an mocal thermostatic sandwich plate and a cooler which is mounted in front of the rad.

the engine warms up as you would expect with the bottom radiator hose cold for about 5 minutes ish.

The car never had this problem before the fast idling was introduced with the fitting of the 288 cam, could the idling be part of the problem? Idle AFR's are good with idle around 12:1 currently.

or is it a long stroke problem? with the piston crowns being machined for the extra stroke, making them thinner, which would increase the heat transfer. altho I would have thought it would be more of a problem at higher revs not lower down the rpm scale

 

ah in that i may not have one, I have the plastic two sensor digi one with the sensor underneath. but at least i know it should be a black sensor, cheers RJ

 

dunno if it helps but i swapped my high and low oil pressure switches over and have had no problems, had to do it as the twin pole oil pressure sender wouldnt fit in the head like i'd planned.

also my water temp shoots up when stationary, fan cuts in etc, i was paranoid at first as it does it quickly but i just put it down to having upped the compression of the engine and the more pleasant weather (water temp goes straight back down to normal once moving). oil temp rarely gets up over 95 unless on track (13 row oil cooler, mocal sandwich). Running an ECP pattern mk2 8v GTI rad, t/stat and fan switch.

 

Al - I'll get my admission in first - I haven't read back to the start of the thread, and I've forgotten what's been covered so far, but have you:

1. Tried a new oil temp sender
2. Made sure the sender has the correct temp range
3. Swapped out to a different dash pod, in case that's at fault, or compared MFA gauge (maybe you don't have one as it was a driver) to an external gauge?

I'm clutching at straws a bit though...

Alternatively, did you rebuild this engine when you put it together (I seem to remember it was a low miler to start with)? If it's a rebuild, maybe it's just a little too tight?

Still clutching at straws though.

Assuming you didn't take a huge amount off the pistons, you shouldn't be any thinner at the piston crown than other 2.1 stroker engines (like fthaimike's, for an 8v example).

 

Mike

i have just got a new sender to try,
ill see if i can rob the rally cars oil temp gauge, if the sender make ne difference,
yes it had new bearings throughout the bottom end as i changed he crank etc, the engine is tight, hot starts are more of a struggle, it was a low miler 32k
Hotgolf did the pistons, and the CR was raised so they should be thicker in the middle, than if the CR was kept at 10.4:1

 

Its abit of an odd one Alan.
Your oil pressure seems quite high at idle to me, I have a gauge in also and its fed off the oil cooler housing aswell. can be as low as 1.5bar at 950rpm. but normally 60psi 3bar? at 70mph in 5th gear. @90 degrees , although your idle is high. Not sure how this could affect the temp though.
what oil are you using? couldn't see in any of the other posts... nor whether you have replaced the O.E oil cooler yet? I just got one the other day about 29 + v.a.t not too bad from GSF.
Have you changed the oil recently? cant remember how long you've had that engine in for but some machining swarf could have got into the system one way or the other, my magnetic sump plug had plenty on after some machining and subsequent use.

Apart from that all I can think of is try Redline water wetter. Its pretty good stuff IMO.
sounds like the oil cant transfer the heat to the coolant efficiently. good luck.

 

is that a kink in the right hand oil pipe? could cause a pressure problom.

i solved my oil temperature problom by bleeding my cooling system properly, and fitting a new rad fan as my slow speed wasnt working so everything got so hot that the second speed wasnt enough to bring it down.
from 126* even when moving, hasnt been over 102 since, stopped or moving.


neil