Hi Trying to get me Pierburg 2e2 Carb working on my MK2 golf 1.6 Driver. Does anyone know what this sensor/solenoid thing is? Ive seen a few but they seem to vary in size. Any ideas?
Hmmm it’s properly sucked on there. Don’t think it’s ever been taken off hahahah Just replaced all the vac lines on the back and checked that everything is working, except for that sensor. The 3point valve would fully retract when started and the car would idle ( on choke). Then when warm, it would just die. thought it may be down to a vac leak. Checked the rubber mounting too. No cracks. Guess I’ll put it back in the car and see what happen. Thanks for the info!
that is the thermoswitch for rad fan after-run, nothing to do with the carb functions: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/1-6-1-8-pierburg-2e2-carb-faq.124945/
Try cleaning the little slot in the side of the idle air adjuster tube (vertical tube sticking up from top, next to primary barrel). May need to remove the whole tube to do so, as the slot is low down on the least accessible side IIRC. Check that the hole in the top of the emulsion tube isn't blocked if you remove the tube to clean the slot. There is a small o-ring at the base of the tube, which may well be 'fragile/tired/unrecognisable as an o-ring' by now.
Checked the slot at the side of the air adjuster tube. No blockage. O-ring is still there but I replaced it just to be safe. Thanks for the suggestion EZ_Pete Good news got the 3 point unit is woking now However still not done. The connectors to the TTV and Idle Overrun Control valve are not getting 12V anymore. They were before, think I must have shorted something. Fuse 15 in my CE2 fusebox was blown, replaced that but still no 12V. Dman.....This is going to take a while
Yup got the 12V back! fuse blew again, I traces it back to a loose ground. Now it's fine. Just need to set the Fast idle. That should stop it from stalling when hot. Unfortunately my 1.6 driver doesn't have a rev counter in the cluster, so I had to hook up an aftermarket one to see where the rpms are. She seems to idle at around 1000rpm and still dies when warm...should idle at at 950 rpm. Almost like shes fuel starved. Revs are erratic. somethings not right...maybe leads or coil? Timing is sport on
Someone famous once said "most carb faults are really ignition faults" or words to that effect, so yeah, check out everything ignition-related.
Is the vac advance working on the dizzy? You can check that the diaphragm holds vac by just putting another bit of hose on there, sucking and blocking it with your tongue, see if it keeps sticking to your tongue. Then check back towards vac source renewing any dodgy bits of hose as you go.
Hi sorry its been a while. Ok so I can con firm that the dizzy is holding vacuum. Noticed that when the car is OFF the 3/4 unit is plunger is at 14.5mm...correct When the car is started the 3/4 unit plunger retracts to 8.5mm...correct however when its retracted, it isn't even touching the fast idle screw?!! should it be?
next step is check everything in my guide to make sure the basic carb systems are all working fine. if its still not running quite right then you can download the haynes carb manual from my signature link which goes into greater detail checking and resetting the internal linkages if someone has been in there and fiddled with it
Hi, Please could you send me the link for the Haynes carb manual? I've read several posts mostly from yourself to try and solve why my 3 point unit isn't extended when cold overnight causing no 2k raise when cold just a lumpy idle till it gets warm(2e2) Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
its in the link in my signature, if you're on a phone this isnt visible though https://drive.google.com/folderview...hZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2&usp=sharing if the 3/4isnt extending though its buggered, it should pop right out as its spring loaded inside