So getting ready for an imminent clutch change. It’s the original clutch with 230k miles on it so figure before it falls apart and leaves me stranded, better get it sorted. It’s my third time on various mk2’s but first one on a 16v with PAS which makes it a little more crowded in there. I’m not looking forward to the war that is getting the box out then in again which ain’t getting any easier on my jack jones esp with age. I remember the main sticking points are the drive shaft flanges, esp on the flywheel, and the subframe corner where track control arm pivots and little vertical cylinder that the gearbox mount sits on being the main protagonists. So, to make life easier, I’m planning to remove the subframe (leaving the rack in) and from what I remember, that should make it plain sailing right! Should be loads more room and be able to move the motor around all over the place as all three mounts will be off. Don’t worry, I do have a good 500kg engine support beam all I’ll boost that with a jack from below. So, anyone tried this? If so would love to hear your tale. Cheers.
Just take the engine/ gearbox out in one, mind you, you will need an engine hoist or block and tackle.
All the times I had my mk2 box out (it was many) lol, I just used to twist the box so the diff end was at the top then the box comes past the subframe ok. Helps if you have someone to assist lifting the thing tho.
Valvemiester, I like your thinking but no lifting gear, just my engine beam and will be on the drive (no garage) so nowhere to go with it even if I did pull it as one. GVK, first clutch I did (in my 30’s) I did as you say, but now in 50’s the box gets heavy much quicker and last time I found myself running out of steam in my arms in the middle of the jiggle. Keep the ideas coming though guys and girls.
not convinced that'll make your life easier tbh. what I find is if you take all the gearbox brackets off first, this gives you a lot more wiggle room. also I would suggest you remove the entire front end including radiator then you have all the room you would ever need. I jack up 1 side, remove wheel then take out out the 6 driveshaft flange bolts. put wheel back on and drop to the ground, then do the other side. that way you dont have to worry about pulling the car off stands either. when you come to refit let the passenger driveshaft drop out the way as you install it, but take care to get the driver ide to line up in the cup. once in jack passenger side up again and crack off the track rod end and/or ball joint then this should give you the wiggle room to get the driveshaft in the cup that side
That does sound easier. And I guess, even with subframe removed you’ll still have to angle the diff end of the box up 45degs to get the driveshaft cup clear of the flywheel. Am I jumping the gun here in changing the clutch if there’s nothing wrong with it? Should I just let sleeping dogs lie? Will the clutch let me know when it’s time to change it by starting to slip or could it wear down to the rivets the hold the friction surface onto the plate and start tearing up my flywheel? Which of course is no longer available.
You'll get plenty of warning the clutch is on it's way out. First sign will be slipping when accelerating, probably in a high gear. Then it's up to you whether you continue to keep your foot down and let it keep slipping so it's finished off quickly, or decide to drive round a little more gently so it lasts the next few days/weeks until you are ready to change it. Mine lasted 190k before starting to slip, and I changed it a few weeks later.
Yeah, had a look a the release arm position and only just below the 9 o’clock position so there must still be meat left in there somehow. Obviously need to do more quarter mile days and races from the lights. The other two clutches I’ve done in the past were down the failed seals and oil contamination though. I’ll leave it for the moment, just that still on furlough and my spanner’s are itching to do something.
Nothing to lose by leaving it until it begins to slip. Just imagine how proud you will be telling people that your clutch has lasted 250k miles!
