aye,it looks alright,just a shame theyre such a bastard to work on/expensive to run/expensive bits/unreliable/slow/add more as you see fit... update today i minted the lamda wiring which went very well,but of course something had to go wrong-when tidying the injector wiring,i removed all injectors to find that one had half of the yellow cap thing on the end missing i just knew it would probably be sat in the engine,and thought feck it,leave it. found some spare none g60 injectors and swapped the cap thing over,but the hole in the end was slightly diffarent so i drilled it bigger and just stuck it on and fitted the injector first of all i turned the engine over with the plugs removed,thinking the half of the cap might come out but it didnt. with the original ecu and psd chip,it ran like crap. swapped to the new ecu with superchip and it misfired like hell! left it running and the cap thing must have eventually burnt away or sommet.? took it for a drive,can you say wheel spin in 3rd gear? feck running the charger in. still dosnt feel right though,part throttle is just crap. put it back in the unit and left it,it dosnt really amuse me tbh. pics of fecked cap thing on injector and drilled replacement,and yep that is the camera pouch/injector on the roof of the car fuck it.
still not right,since my last post full throttle has just been giving intermittent power. tried another dizzy today and it wouldnt run very well at all,i dont have a timing light but i marked everything up beforehand. drove it and it was like there was no charger,and it was popping/backfiring. stuck the old dizzy back in,drove it and full throttle sounds like a machine gun,drrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. and it dosnt go anywhere,still popping and farting. [:^(] any g60 gods fancy a look? i just dont think im ever gonna get to the bottom of it [:^(] neil.
im ready to make every panel on the car become close friends with the feckin lump hammer [:^(] im thinking of going to waste money on a timing light... can someone just confirm the utterly stupid way to set the timing correctly? disconnect bts/rev over 3k 3 times/adjust dizzy/check for 6 deg btdc while holding revs at 2.5k? then what? just connect bts back up? or keep fuckin about/revving/connecting/disconnecting?
Once it`s set at 6 degree you can just plug the blue sensor back, I used 2250 rpm for the setting (it`s between 2k and 2.5k).
cheers keith,dunno if your up to date on the problem or not,but the popping/farting has dissapeared since replacing the voltage regulator on the alternator i think still got the intermittent power though thanks again to everyone who has helped so far. neil.
Thread ressurection! Still having this fecking problem... Slight update though. The popping/slow revving totally dissapears if i cable tie the WOT switch closed,i dunno what this means like... I found one of the original threads for this problem which i started 21 months ago on the corrado forum Neil.
Sounds like you`re running lean if the WOT switch cures it, I`d bin the G60 ecu altogether if it was me and fit a Megasquirt or similar, seriously the amount of time you`ve spent on the G60 ecu you could have a perfect road mapped setup. Not dissing the G60 owners on here, if it`s running well its a good system, but the best thing I ever did was move over to Megasquirt.
Small update:14/1/08 I tried a different (tidy) injector wiring loom and (tidy) pressure regulator today...The problem is still bloody well there! But i did notice something i haven't clocked onto before... The scenario: Sat in car up to temp,quickly stabbing the throttle which keeps it around 1500rpm. Its slow to rev and pops/farts. The boost gauge jumps from -20 to 0. And...When it pops/farts...The boost gauge really violently bangs up to +5 or +10 psi. So quickly that you struggle to see it So my thinking is that there is definately a problem within the intake system somewhere...But why would taping the WOT switch shut totally cure it!? Neil.
I got some video...You will have to excuse the lack of lighting on the boost gauge turning the volume up will help too. Video 1 - Showing ticking over from cold, and showing vac on mfa. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uiYVXnAh0mA Video 2 - Just as i move away from the boost gauge you will hear the car sneeze...once,twice and a third time. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rdGupfF1tI0 Video 3 - Showing it up on the boost gauge, 17 seconds in. Also around 27 seconds you may hear it rev differently? http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4CIXoC2djrg After this... I disconnected the bts and reconnected it to a cold one sat on the slam panel. The tickover rose and it seemed to rev more responsively,and no popping. I reconnected to the bts on the rad pipe, i revved it by hand and it popped. What we reckon? Neil.
Is it usable? Or does it do that and its been sat for 3 years? Mine has a stalling problem but over 1500 revs its sweet. I wish I could offer some ideas or help.
By taping the WOT switch shut you have triggered full throttle enrichment. If this cures your fault you need to look at why the engine is running lean. Does it cure it every single time? Hot or cold? Is the car standard? Is the ECU mapping up to any mods you have made? Have you tried another ECU? No vacum leaks?? Injectors tested. If you check the resistance at the white connector at the fuel rail you should have between 3.7 and 5 ohms.That indicates that all four injectors are ok. Again if you trick the ECU into squirting more fuel as you have done and it cures the problem then the prob has to be fuel related no?? Good luck bud.
Cheers guys The problem appears as it warms up,the problem started nearly 3 years ago i think (33 page thread on corrado forum Its driveable,but when it pops pulling from a roundabout its bloody dangerous...The problem started after i parked up for 30 mins,just appeared from nowhere! As for the spec and what i have tried...Basically everything. Here is what ive replaced: ecu.various chip.various. head gasket and all new exhaust/inlet gaskets. Valves reground/re-seated. New stem seals. New v.a.g fuel pump and sender. New fuel filter. New fuel lines. New cam belt/tensioner and static timing spot on. all sensors inc new bosch lambda.various ign timing bang on 6deg btdc.done time and time again. co pot. Injector loom.various Injectors. various Injector seals and caps. pipe 1 meter long to ecu. Spark plugs from vw 70 feckin quid! Spark plug leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm. Dizzy itself. New throttle body gaskets. New throttle body switches. All earths cleaned up with emory and replaced. Alternater. Voltage regulator. fpr. boost hoses on throttle body and air box. Here is the spec: Full blend ported and polished charger. 68mm pully. sns stage 5 chip. Boost recirc removed. Carbon can removed. Decat pipe.been on since well before the problem. Neil.
..damn.[:^(] [:^(] does the output of the charger look ok? i.e not excessive amounts of oil in the pipe that goes off to the intercooler.
Scarey innit The charger is absolutely mint Its not done many miles since the work. And it goes 'alright' with the WOT switch taped up. [YOUTUBE]2-D28Y7BJck[/YOUTUBE] [YOUTUBE]SKByptO_Wss[/YOUTUBE] Ive often shot out of the house at midnight/early morning after having an idea of what it may be,or to do more leccy testing. Ive been through all the wiring in the engine bay,splitting off to fuse box and fuel pump,all tests out fine as far as i can tell. Neil.
Mine whistles, but not as much as yours. Could that be your boost return deletion mod? I want mine to sound like that.
Its the carbon can being removed that does it Dave You can actually 'tune' the sound of the whistle... The 17mm internal diameter (iirc) pipe that comes from the carbon can,and goes to the right of the throttle body...Try removing it fully for crazy whistling! Or if you blank it off with a piece of pipe,you can alter the length of the pipe to change the whistle. Having it open to atmosphere is cool,as its in where the lower butterfly is Neil.