The prices were the same as it says in johns post. I've been trying for an hr to try and get a cup on with the spring behind it and there is no chance! May have to refit them without the springs
Use a bar or something similar levered against the selector arm on one side. Don't use the washer that goes behind the circlip, you won't get the clip in if you do. Try the same on the other side, levering against something solid. Usually with the box off the car I use a stilson with a bolt through the hole in the end going into 1 of the mount holes as the point of leverage. Also, by adding the springs it'll give more support for the cups, so struggle to get them on. ( good 'ole quaife not putting threads in the stubs !)
good piccy of what I mean a bit further down 'nobber' sent in the pic apparently http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html 2 chunky bits of hard wood with threaded studs, nuts and washers may work? or 2 bits of steel with relief holes cut in for tool access
I had seen that Brooke vw guide and tried using a pair of these for ages last night and they weren't strong enough for he last few mm needed. Unfortunately I have no giant g clamps like that.
Result, the wife is a tech teacher and said she has some big g clamps at work so if going to bring them home tomorrow for me to try with them
Plastic ones are great for wood lol not so good on hardwood fnaar fnaar! On a serious note, you'll need some good flat nose circlip pliers, or long nose pliers with the ends ground flat. The circlips can over stretch so make sure it's seated in the groove properly all the way around before putting the cap on. Oh, put some grease on the seal lips to help the cups slide in.
Using VW parts you can make a tool. I used the stud from an early non self adjusting cambelt tensioner, along with an early slotted alternator tensioner bracket. Have done a lot of GB's sprung output cups with these parts Jon
Jon, do you mean bolting the stud into the stub axle? If so the quaife doesn't have an M10 thread in the middle.
I couldn't get two of the monster G clamps around the cups so had to do it with one. I tightened it a bit then tapped the other side with a rubber mallet, then tightened some more and so on, And in And seals on The cups are solid now no movement Cheers for all your help guys, especially Mart and John Now to put the shafts back on, oil up the box and test drive
So the diff splines haven't worn at all ? Just the cups ? Silverline tools cheap but they do the job 99/100
Must have been all the burn outs the previous own of the box does at the weekends lol There is no movement at all now, so looks like the diff splines are ok thank god
Yeah, right, understand. My memory re quaife is poor. Its been at least a year since I worked on mine... Jon