Hopefully these pics will help visualise the task at hand a bit better.... T10068 in action. The tool will only engage when the cams are in the right position (TDC on cyl 1). The afore mentioned brass links to aid alignment.... And the roller counting bit. When both VVT adjusters are installed in their fully off position, the laser etched arrows will point to notches on the opposite side of the VVT housing and there should be 16 chain rollers between the arrows.
Seems pretty simple when you put it like that...Thanks for the pics! Here is the parts from ETKA http://www.addy.co.uk/images/mk2vr6/BDE.pdf I plan on getting numbers: 1, 9, 4, 2, 14 & 13. Thats the chains & rails Then 6 & 7, Cogs Also 16, 17 & 8 Anything else? Thats going to be over 200 of parts i would say. Oh plus the tool too! Cheers for your help Mat
Yeah you'll be fine! You don't need 8, but you do need 2 of 19 as they are stretch bolts. 7 was recently revised so worth replacing, but I wouldn't replace 6 unless there are obvious signs of pitting. 11 is wear part, so worth replacing too. 16, 17, 10 & 5 I didn't bother replacing as they're not subjected to wear. Just trying to keep your costs down I would get some VW flange sealant as well (or Loctite 5910 - Halfords sell it) for the chain covers. If the rocker cover gaskets are leaking, probably worth doing those too. And one last thing, a new rear crank seal. Torques:- Bolt for intermediate shaft pulley (8) - 100nm Camshaft bolts (19) - 60nm + 90 deg 5mm upper chain cover bolts x 8 - 10nm 6mm bolts in the middle (facing down) x 2 - 25nm - Tighten these first before the smaller ones! 5mm lower chain cover bolts x 16 - 10nm Tensioner bolt (11) - 30nm
Awesome, Thanks for that. I will get it all ordered next week. So your saying the 2 chain covers are stuck rather than having a gasket?
Yep, stuck down with automotive grade silicon. The headgasket extends out is sandwiched between the two covers, hence why you need to make sure the two bolts that pull the two covers together are tightened first.
So then, The T10068 tool is now T10068A, And comes in at 104.62 Inc VAT Anyone want to lend me theirs and i will return it with beer money?
Very kind of you mate. Im going into my local dealer at the weekend so i will see if they have the right part and if i can get any discount. If no hope i will PM you the address. I can copy the tool my end and CNC a few out
Yeah no worries! Some people get 2 tools, even though it shows as 1 in ETKA, so that may explain the lofty price!
I'm about to attempt this as my engine is out Looking at the special tool.... could just slide a metal ruler in the cam slots to lock it? It just seems a little pricey for what it is.......
I will enquire with TPS discount to see what price it comes down to otherwise like you shall find something in the garage to fit it in there :-)
I just found a bit of Ali to stick under there, Worked fine. The slot in the end of the cams are offset, so it's not in the middle but hard to get wrong or it does not lign up with the block.
Did any of you do the crank seal at the same time (transmission side)? Does anyone have a part number. Also what is the theory behind changing the sprockets? Do they wear? As I am at 225+ VAT with them included... That's without a new rocker cover gasket and crank seal.... 1 021 109 465 B timing chain 41.76 2 021 109 467 chain tensioner 28.42 3 N 909 238 01 allen key head bolt 0.17 4 021 109 469 slide rail 3.83 5 021 109 471 pin 1.57 6 021 109 569 sprocket 35.5 7 066 109 570 sprocket 11.6 8 N 102 038 03 hexagon head bolt 1.1 9 066 109 503 C timing chain 41.76 10 066 109 511 D pin 3.19 11 066 109 507 D chain tensioner 22.85 12 N 013 827 1 seal 0.52 13 066 109 509 A chain tensioner 13.75 14 066 109 513 A slide rail 10.21 15 N 011 525 27 washer 0.15 16 N 014 715 4 allen key head bolt 1.28 17 071 109 515 pin 7.48 225.14
Too thin. Whatever material you use needs to be a pretty snug fit in the cam slots otherwise the cams will move by a few degrees making it very difficult to get the chains on, tensioned and timed correctly. On my 12v VR (the same tool is needed) I just used some thin steel plate cut to shape and stacked to the required thickness.
