These hubs are 4 x 100, and that's what I need. Also the reason I ordered from the UK (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254565583693) The stubs are from here in the US from a scrapped car (breaker). The reason was to get the straight shaft version instead of the tapered shaft that we have on mk3's. I already have the bolt pattern worked out for mounting, as they are different. I was just caught off guard by the difference in diameter, I thought they were the same.
6K9 501 477 is an inca/mk2 caddy hub. Why not use polo 9n stub axle (skoda fabia and seat ibiza too) they bolt up to the mk3 golf beam but need a plate to mount the caliper if rear discs. The 6n2 hub fits the 9n stub. Look at my build thread for pics or the stub axle movement topic of recent has my mk2 rear hub picture too
I think I got lured into thinking that a Polo mk4 would be the same size as a Golf mk4. Turns out to be a couple of mm different. I have been watching some of your build thread, but I confess, not all of it. Nice work.
yeah the mk4 and polo arent the same size, if you already have the mk4 stub axles made to fit I think the best option would be have the mk4 hubs re-drilled to 4x100 unless you manage to get a set of polo stub axles cheap. but now the knowledge is wide spread the scene tax is high. another thing to thank clubgti for
Update. Having been soaking in penatrative oil for ages these two, what I assume, plungers will not budge, up or down. Copious heat next. I also soaked the inlet and outlets and blew them though with an airline. The left side is clear but the right side is less so. Due to this I measured the depth of the “plungers” from the rim and the right side is about 0.5mm lower than the left. This would indicate to me that the plunger does indeed affect the flow of fluid between the entry exit holes. Now, on the standard set up the inlet is the lower hole and the outlet, the upper hole. But, when the axle is unloaded you want less fluid to be allowed through to reduce braking effect. Can anyone tell me, when the axle is unloaded, does the lever apply pressure to the plunger or release it?
Pulling the spring/lever away from the valve simulates weight in the back and so maximum rear brake force, so you clamp like this when bleeding to ensure valve is fully open:
So plunger fully in, maximum braking force. Axle unloads and pulls the lever releasing the plungers which reduces brake force. So, in theory, when the car is empty the lever should be fully pulled and the plungers fully released?
Well well, some levering of the plungers back and forth (there is not much movement at all, almost imperceptible but it’s there) and pulling with pliers has freed them . So confirmed they were stuck all the way in. They are clearly sprung from the inside as the freer one returns on its own when pushed in now. The other is more stubborn. More soaking in progress.
Plungers (I am now going to refer to them as pistons) out! They look in pretty good nick. The little nipple you see on the left hand end is sprung. It functions well on the top one but not the bottom. However, this is not enough to push the piston out the way it did. I wonder if it was air pressure? Next is to look and see if these come apart.
On closer inspection I thought taking them apart further would be foolish so I removed the o ring and rubber collar on each and popped the lot into the ultrasonic cleaner. Good results. As a result of this two further springs were revealed. These are what push the pistons back up. In order of construction. The rubber cap has a small hole unfortunately but it doesn’t matter as it is solely for dust and does not retain fluids. I am not putting it back together yet as I want to remove the hinge pin from the body and clean it up. There is actually a strong possibility it will be fully functioning once again
Moving forward. Massive heat, a punch and hammer got the hinge pin out. Aldi Toolzone Clevis pin set provided the perfect replacement New valve arrived. Advertised on EBay by GSF as ATE and Brembo arrives - happpeeeee days £45 on EBay, well over £200 on their website, what’s going on there? Interestingly (or not depending on your point of view) not adjustable like the original. It seems they have homogenised as this is listed for just about every VW of the era on the box. On another related matter can anyone tell me the size of the bolts that bolt the rear beam to the body? I’d like to order some new ones.
