That oil temp is a bit on the high side for cruising conditions. There could be a few causes, from a duff oil cooler or blocked coolant pipes to it, running a bit lean (although it shouldn't be too bad now, and would be leaner at the top end). Check the earths to the rocker cover (there should be at least two wires - can't remember on a digi car, but you've got another one to compare with. ) and swap bits around with the other car, as per the prev. post. Relay is a 2 minute job to swap, so do that first. If the problem moves to the other car, you've solved it. As for the front engine mount, a new standard one should be fine, and check for movement in the others too. I've run 160+ bhp on standard mounts. As long as they're all in good condition, it's not a problem.
Slight thread hijack , but any suggestion as to an MFA not showing any oil temp at all? just 3 dashes.
I think it was a comedy reply to this "it probably drives a bit more like a 16 valve now" 8v = never going to drive like a 16v
An 8v with a hotter cam and flowed head will produce it's power further up the rev range and thus the feeling of it coming "on cam" is reminiscent of a 16v Ultimately an 8v falls short of the valver with top end power. Less valve area, less rpm etc etc Add extra cc to the 8v and the extra torque compensates and it gets more interesting...
Interesting to read about the oil temps as I'm having exactly the same problems running 106-108. Not ruled out electrical yet though as mine seems to go up when I put the heaters on Keep us posted if you get to the bottom of it. Anyway, awesome to hear you are happy with it now after the troubles
"Still the torque shape is 8v" you won't get away from this unless you use a different intake system well done those who have 2L 8v with cams and 4 branch exhaust manifolds, making similar output as stock 16v
Indeed, a decent fettled 2L 8v will compete and go every bit as well as a KR 16v Fit a 2L block to the valver and it will be ahead again though. Much much cheaper than tuning an 8v. I'm a man who should know.... Like for like with capacity and compression and on plenum injection the 16v has capacity for 25-30BHP more than the 8v. More valve area, more revs etc etc
Glad you've got to the root of your engine problems! Im from Bangor so can appreciate the difficulty in getting someone knowledgeable to work on your car. When I first read that you were going to try Prestige I was reading in interest because they are one of the garages Ive been thinking of trying - not so now though! Is Ryan the one who had the blue 16v Turbo Mk2?? Ive tried AVW in the past (mixed reviews, though Tim set up my ignition timing for free once after a local garage bodged it up!) Ive got a good mechanic now whos also a firend (has a unit on the Talwrn road from M Bridge to Llangefni) so cross fingers I dont have the frustrations you've encountered! Mike Capri Green Mk2
Engine issues again!! Since my tune up at Stealth the car has been running fine and racking up the miles . However over the last few days the mysterious intermittant jerky stutter of the engine has returned. I mentioned this earlier in the rebuild thread. Following advice from Vince at Stealth, I changed a relay and also checked the earthing straps on the corner of the rocker cover. I thought the issue had gone away but now the car is doing it again. Sometimes it will go for several days without the problem and then all of a sudden it will happen. The symptoms are a slight stutter of the engine (a bit like a misfire) and the rev counter also stutters. To me it feels like a fuelling problem?? Any suggestions? Car has had new plugs, HT leads, knock sensor, distributor. Could it be an alternator fault? What are the symptoms of a faulty fuel pump/lift pump? Cheers Alpenweiss2
Fuel pump issues tend to be failure of lift pump leading to very noisey main pump and then reduction in system pressure and stalling. Your rev counter will not be affected. Erractic operation of rev counter along with misfiring suggest and electrical issue. This is really shooting in the dark and your best bet would be to go to a specialist for him to see the vehicle and use his experience to rectify.
My lift pump went gradually - had intermittant jerky stutter as you discribe - it also came and went a few times before dying completely. I believe it happened 2-3 times in 6 months or so before totally failing. It could give the symptoms you describe but there is an odd noise when it's stuttering - it's the other pump working overtime I think. I was too busy worrying if I was gonna get home to be looking at the rev counter really. My rev counter sometimes flickers anyway - nothing to do with the fuel pump - just a dodgy connection somewhere. Still does it from time to time now and then.
I'd have an outside bet on the ignition switch. Do you have a big bunch of keys on it (tend to stress the switch).
