^ he's right. I've just started knocking up a few of these, and have built up a tower with one on. It doesn't half make a difference. I've used ground bright bar, and reamed the tower to suit for a really snug fit. Absolutely to slop whatsoever.
that gruven part doesn't look like it would fit the lever on my shifter tower though.. mine's an 02c passat syncro box, but basically the same as an 02a i think.
hotgolf...would be nice to make a sleeve/bush avail for the tower , so a diy'er could roar it out with a drill then maybe epoxy a sleeve in the tower ? my m12 bolt is a pretty keen fit luckily lol any pics of the ones youve made? nice to see other peoples ideas
I'll try and get a pic up tomorrow, but it's basically the same as the gruven part, except I haven't had the cable pin welded in, it's threaded into place and held by the nut that hold the bracket to the inner bracket, so it can be moved back up into the original position if needed, then just use an allen head bolt to replace the pin, if that makes sense.
the gruven lower pin is bolted on ...as it needs to move for cable ajustment the orig plastic twists to accomodate ...hence the thin bit in the middle
Just had another look at the Gruven part, it's bolted, but not for adjustment as they've not got flats on the opposite end, just a smaller diamatert o allow for movement. Hmm, me thinks I need to make a mod. to my own. Keeps the flats, but bolt it on. So, I get the support and leverage of the flat end, plus I keep the adjustment too The one I made here had a little slop on the flats(ground too much off) so was giving me a 'false' adjustment were it was loose in the plastic bush. I'll see if I can get a pic of a modded one by tomorrow afternoon.
i didnt mean its bolted for ajustment in that way....when you alter the cable ajustment via that 13mm nut..that lower pivot /sqaure ended thing needs to rotate a smidge if u get me ? otherwise when you loosen the 13mm and try to move it, a fixed lower pivot would stop any ajustment why not drill the square end out and whack a nut on it?
It'll clamp the lever solid if were talking about the same end? I've just looked at the stainless block they make too. Could be a better design if they'd put a bearing in there, and had a nice size/size fit onto the pin. Would take out a bit of slop
well thats how i tackled it.....the lower pivot scews into a nut i welded on , screw that up until its snug , then a lock nut to keep it there
heres what im getting at....if the bottom is fixed via a square end then you cant move the cable fixing as per the arrow? with mine...ajust it to how u need things and then nip up the lock nut? seems to work fine anyhow....idealy id like a bush in the tower rather than metal to metal but im not able to make one
yeah I got ya. Righty, the bolted pin at the top(above pic) has a round end on the left, instead of having flat sides(fixed). This will allow it to rotate when you adjust the cable, instead of having the end fixed and a thin centre so it can twist for adjustment. There was no real need for them to bolt that pin on with the small allen head if the end turns in the plastic bush when you slacken off the 13mm nut. Whats happened with mine that I can see now, is that I had a fixed pin(flat sides) like the OEM one, and with a solid centre, and it was only moving due to the slop on the fixed(left) hand end. I can either turn the flats off so it'll slide into the plastc bush with the flat sides, or keep my flat sides, and bolt the pin on instead of welding it. I hope that makes ense, and I think I know where you're coming from, unfourtuanatly, I'm working tonight and haven't had a drink to clear my head!
Ah, I got ya. The pin would need to be either shouldered so the nut stops and doesn't overtight on the whole linkage, or like yourself, use a nyloc so it won't come off, but still nip it up. This right? Think I was trying to keep the flats as too keep the leverage without adding anything else
yeah i think you go me now i just didnt realise at first the plastic lower pivot twists to accomadate the ajustments get some pics when yours is working ...surley we can figure out a good solution between us
Another weak area, and sloppy as hell is the plastic block on the opposite end. I'm looking into making some alloy ones, with a tighter tolerence. Should be good if it works. Will get some tomorrow
what bits that? i had someone make me a nylon end for the front to back cable at the tower...helped a fair bit its 2x of those
Not sure, I'm on about the 1" x 3/4" slot guide that's on the right hand side of the 2nd pic from the top. Think I can makes these out of some alloy bar, but I'll have to have aplay about on the lathe first.
ah yeah they would be nice wouldnt nylon be better ? need to think of a way to fit it too as theyre riveted on with a slim head rivet while mine is sloppy off the car...its not soo bad once its all fitted
