These are Wossners 9a pistons, 82.5mm and I think 12.7:1 std (ABF version 12.5:1.....or could be the other way round). They came out of a second hand motor from an Irish Hill climb F3 Dallara that had run a big end, I also scavenged the Newman cams out of the same motor, but didn't use them in this Evo 1 motor, I even ran them with the old rings in this version! I used proper king bearings and bolts etc, as I didn't intend building a new bottom end for the proper head and valve train when I upgraded to the next version of the motor, but always intended changing the rings at that stage. Problem these days is finding good std bore blocks to stay in the class capacity. I will invest in a short stoke 90mm crank at some point simply to allow me to re bore and use over size pistons for a perfect bore, of course there are other benefits, but that is a big investment. This block is actually an 8v block....more torque see . Seriously 8v blocks are a lot cheaper, virtually identical and usually better condition bore wise. I think the deck height is a little taller on the 8v, but I always deck the block to the pistons to get the squish right anyway, so makes no difference. I've actually got a set of shorter Pankl rods to facilitate the short stroked version on the way over from the States. The MK3 Kitcar cranks, or at least some of them, were std castings offset ground and machined to lower the stroke, so I'm going to have a play with that for an Evo 3 version.
Some suspension upgrades were carried out. I found a set of Bilstein Motorsport Group A tarmac dampers, so refurbished them and changed the spring rates/lengths to suit the car. The champs I was running in did allow rose jointed top mounts, but that did end up with a complaint to the MSA about me using them! As the inserts were a little pitted I got hold of a new set of Peugeot Sport 205 Tarmac inserts to use. Due to the regulations I couldn't use rose jointed tubular wishbones and rose joints, which would be an easy upgrade. Therefore to restore the geometry I used some bolt on ball joint extenders. I was planning to weld them on, but due to time restraints I didn't get time for the first hill climb I did......two runs and they both bent!! I complained to the manufacturer that I expected a bit more than that and they sent some new ones, which I then welded on! Flipped the steering rack ball joints to match the extenders. Long story but the geometry was not properly calculated by the manufacturers of the extenders, and I had to do a load of modifications to dial out the bump steer induced by the extenders fitted to eliminate the bump steer!! Also fitted a set of Bremsport 4 pot calipers and 300mm discs I got hold of. Changed the mater cylinder to suit, think I used a T4 Van one?
Well.......as ever that is not a simple question lol. The calipers and discs fit under my proper Motorsport rims such as Speedlines, but not with the more road based copies. As I have different tyres on different rims I needed a bit more flexibility, so I worked out that I could machine a fair bit off the calipers without compromising their integrity. So hacksawed off a few lumps them hand filed and ground them back to shape and painted them (hence the boy racer red colour!)
Other than that they seem fine, good power. They came with a set of hawk HPS pads which seem to work well, good grip from cold. Wear fast and are very dirty, but if they work who cares lol.
Lol, I'd trade dirty wheels for stopping power too! I was curious as I'd heard some folk turn their nose up at Bremsport and similar brands. My theory was any 4 pot has to be an improvement over an old single piston slider...
So here are a few dyno printouts, these will be more interesting when comparing to the Evo 2 version of the engine. Basically when tested on Vince Mosleys rolling road she was making about 175bhp at the wheels, a year or so later on the Badger5 dyno at a rolling road day she was making about 168bhp at the wheels, so between 204bhp and 195bhp at the crank. I felt it had gone a little flat by the time it was run on Bill's setup, but it could just be differences between dynos, software and temp on the day etc, as that will make a difference. Not a massive difference anyway. of course
As I say the difference between this version of the engine an the next is very interesting, especially if I tell you that the next version is making around 50 lbs/ft more torque at at the crank @ 4000 rpm you'll see why this engine felt weak, although it seems to compare to many other dyno graphs I see for VW n/a 16v's. The graphs above and below are wheel torque not crank.
Yes, you're not wrong. I did just go and check I wasn't mixing up crank and Wheel readings, but I was right and having had a closer look its actually closer to 60lbs/ft increase, with 191lbs/ft at peak at the crank at 6000rpm (about 163 at the wheels), same rolling road as above. Feels so much better now, pulls from anywhere and keeps pulling hard, more like the 8v motor now.......but I'll come on to that version later, as there were a lot of other changes. HANG ON, I've now emailed the pics off the phone so I can see them properly lol. its actually 35lbs/in @ 4000rpm, looking at the wrong line as they cross , anyway still a decent amount.
Next upgrade was a Hydro electric pump form a Saxo, needs a heavy duty feed with a 50amp fuse and relay. the issue is the pumps are designed for shopping cars, so make the steering very light. unlike modern systems which have ECU's that sense speed and load to adjust the steering weight as the speed increases, these are one load, so at speed the steering is too light and the car feels loose. The issues was do I restrict flow or recuse the motor speed. having done some research there was a lot of advice to put a restrictor in the feed pipe to reduce the flow, as per BMW M3's, but after digging a bit more it seems that it is there to reduce foaming, not flow. Seems what performance cars do is adjust the motor speed, so some more research and it seems you can use a box of tricks and a heat sink to adjust the motor speed, so I acquired all the bits and built a speed controller. Its just a manual version, although I'm sure you could link it to the ECU and have it adjust based on wheel speed and revs etc, but beyond my knowledge (or interest!) level. Also advised to put magnets on the motor power feed wires and a resistor to reduce electrical noise to avoid any issues. Also made a bigger heat sink plate and added some heat transfer paste as it struck me it could be absorbing a lot of energy and didn't want it to fry itself on a run as that could prove tricky!! Works, one setting for the pits and then a few different settings depending on how twisty the track is, lock to lock stuff or more subtle. Only tried it on the road so far but seems to do the job.
Less drag on the engine so quicker to pick up and a bhp or two extra (marginal gains and all that) plus simplified install, so easier/quicker to remove the engine and box. Also gone over to a works two mounts and a dog bone to the sub frame like the MK3 kitcars.......more to come on that.
Ok, another mod I did when going to 16v was a side mount radiator, like the Audi Quattro. I used a generic 'competition' Honda civic rad, modified the front cross member and a few other bits....its a tight fit but it does actually fit very well. Ran it up on the dyno and it was running a bit hot, so decided to modify it all again, as I had removed a lot of pipe work. When I had a proper look at how the cooling worked with the heater and thermostat it became clear you can't just block off pipes! So I sorted all that and also ducted the air to the radiator, the oil cooler and the throttle bodies, keeping the hot air and cool air apart. The problem now is its too cool! I have half the radiator blocked off at the moment to get enough heat in to the engine, so more work needed. To sort it finally I have developed an electric water pump kit with an ECU to control the flow and heat management, integrated with a geared down alternator set up, but that's not fitted yet.
That's very interesting that it's over cooling! Do you think it'd work on a stock system with cabin heater etc, on a tuned road car with a set of forward facing ITBs?
sounds like the thermostat wants looking at, you could have a massive diesel rad on a normal engine and it wouldn't affect running temp if the stat is working alright
Well, it must be the thermostat that's the issue as it should get up to heat on the closed system, bypassing the radiator....but I have lots of problems with thermostats. They either stick shut, or on this occasion open, hence developing a fully electric system rather than keep on messing about with them. Less parasitic power sapping on the engine and it will give the motor cooling when and where it needs it....hopefully! The water temp gauge is reading 20 degree high, we know that as when checking it our on the rolling road with some infra red testers on various areas on the engine to dial in the laptop [ECU] correct. Yes, it will work on a road car, this one has a full heater system and all the std pipes, it has to in the class I run it. I run in the road modified class at present, so full interior, glass, window winders etc. etc. Just seemed the most sensible set up under the bonnet, all fitted nicely where it is now. Probably not ideal having the cold air straight down the ITB's as I don't think that is very good for flow when running fast, I believe engines prefer an air box with a less direct feed. Whilst the filter is fairly enclosed to keep the under bonnet heat compartmentalised, its not a full sealed air box. I have thought about some additional ducting in front of the ITB's to duct the air around from the sides for better flow at high revs, but not had a good look in to that yet, and tricky bit is how to test if it works or not dynamically. The next set up I build will have a proper F2/kitcar style airbox setup.
