what about the oil cooler, has that got a stat on it? maybe that rather than the coolant rad keeping it too cool. if it is the coolant stat at least since youve gone electric pas its easy to change it
No, no stat on the oil cooler.....but never been a problem as with a race car you can warm it up properly before runs etc, but I was thinking to fit a MK1 GTi cooler take off as they have a thermostat in them. Not fitted the electric set up yet, still on the dummy engine block on an engine stand in the workshop :-). It's not a major issue at present, as under load it gets pretty much up to temp but on public roads you can't get use it hard enough to get it on to the gauge even, so must be the thermostat.....just can't be bothered to drain all the coolant again....getting lazy lol.
mk1 housing wont fit the later block casting with the top bolt hole offset over towards the breather, i guess you can get sandwich plate with cooler in? to test that can put card in front of the oil cooler see if that helps
Ahh ok, I've never checked TBH, I have a few here but have other uses for them :-)....I think the threads are different to the cooler pipes as well, so probably better to get a sandwich plate with a thermostat in it. The motor is coming out of the MK2 for another home before long so it can be changed then, however the thread has to catch up with developments before we get to that.
[So that was the basic spec for a year or so, but the car wasn't really fast, and with my driving skills I need a fast car . So a few upgrades were planned inc. an update to the engine, works style engine and box mounts, 02J gearbox like the G60, custom front crossmember as the stock set up weighs a ton and doesn't really seem to do anything. So to start with the Gear box I acquired a Gemini plate diff and flanges, an SQS ultra close ratio gear set, and Audi STW flywheel and a NOS Sachs motorsport twin plate clutch......all of which nearly fitted together lol. View attachment 21125 ATTACH=full]21125[/ATTACH]
Yeah, 5th gear is a little tight. Low top gear, so a big gear. Think it's about 1.21:1 with a 4.25FD, its about 113mph @ 8500rpm, she'll be on the limiter in top at one or two tracks I think. The clutch was even tighter! I remembered my Gemini sequential has a 3mm spaced between the clutch and the block, and that's a twin plate, and sure enough this was the same, I had to make a 3mm spacer. Mart machined the clutch face down the plate front and rear, custom lever, machined down pivot point and mounting and had about 1>2mm clearance! the flywheel was something like 5kgs and the whole clutch was 8 or 9kgs I think, very light. In fact I had it all machined up and trial fitted it, then worked out where else I could find some clearance and it all went back to Mart with a list of details and dimensions for some more machining lol. Mart also took the ring gear off a G60 flywheel I had and fitted it to the Audi touring car flywheel as the Audi ring gear is different....I then had to machine the WOSP started down to move the Starter gear inwards further which was a little tricky as its machined eccentrically. Another issue was WOSP assembled the starter motor incorrectly which cause me some issues! I couldn't get it to fit first time, so machined some holes slightly differently, then I couldn't get the starter gear to engage with the ring gear. Turned out that had assembled it 180 degrees out in the factory, very minor differences, but enough for it not to work. Took me a while to work that out! After advising WOSP of the issues they have reviewed all of their VW starter range and also revamped their QA system so it can't happen again.
Had the same issues (whittling needed) to get my 020 group A set to turn in the casing; VW Motorsport 2.72 2.06 1.68 1.43 1.26 Large Input Shaft (16v:24mm shaft) Jon
Yeah, I tend to decide what to do without considering how much work it will take lol. My Bacci Romano 020 has had a bit of machining in side lol, mine is the VWMS 8v ratios though. On this box it was only the 5th gear that needed easing in as I recall. Dug out the ratios. not dissimilar to the 020 16v Jon, slightly lower 1st, 2nd & 3rd though. 1.gear 29 x 10 - 2,900 2.gear 25 x 11 - 2,273 3.gear 27 x 15 - 1,800 4.gear 25 x 17 - 1,471 5.gear 23 x 19 - 1,211
Had to convert the clutch to hydro, easiest way would be a manual cable conversion but the actuator is silly money and with a HD clutch I wasn't sure how heavy it would be so decided to go hydro. Being lazy, and as the car was all assembled, I purchased an Epytec bracket. Nicely made but unfortunately it didn't fit....so back to my normal theory and designed and made one myself. Fiddly job laying upside down in the driver footwell developing and fitting, took a bit of trial and error, but got there in the end. needed a few spacers on the salve cylinder to get the spacing right. I keep braided hose and fittings in stock these days so that's nice and easy these days. Worked spot on in the end. Also made solid mounts for the gear cable mount on the box, cut off the gear weight ala the works cars and added metal ball joints to the gear cables. I left the throw std at this stage to test it, but later moved the pivot point for the back and fore movement to make it quicker, as it was a bit slow. Mounted a Wilwood fluid reservoir in the bulkhead. Could find a decent place in the engine bay except over the exhaust manifold, and I didn't like the idea of it boiling over the exhaust, or worse leaking and catching fire. So whilst very tight, I mounted it in the bulkhead. I used 8mm copper pipe with rubber ends for neatness and to get the tights curves I needed. Nothing much in the bulkhead now except the wiper motor, and it's sealed off form the cabin now. The cap lines up with a pre existing recess in the bonnet, so it doesn't touch it.....very tight but fits :-)
Ahh, it is aluminium so not as bad as it seems Jon.....you know how it is, was just the right sized bit in the box for the job :-). The small spacers are actually what I cut off the Jenvey fuel rail when I shortened it for the new ASNU injectors when I upgraded the engine recently, so as green and recycled as you like. To be honest Tristan I don't think it made any difference, its just the original plastic ones just looked a bit delicate and fiddly and it was a simple enough job to change while I was doing it all. The solid mount for the Cable mounts firmed it up a bit. Overall the gear change feels good. The box I used was in decent nick anyway, not very dirty or worn, so it was all fairly tight to start.
Yeah I know exactly what you mean, I've got a mk2 aerial support bracket and a warm air feed shroud bracket holding my radiator fan shroud on, mk3 power steering pipe retaining bracket used in my custom 02a->j linkage and thats just off the top of my head looks great Tony keep the updates coming
