It only seems to do this when cold though - this is what I don't understand. I always thought it was a power thing. Cheers EZ_Pete - will give that a go too.
Its just a step in the diagnostic process - I'm not suggesting you permanently drive around with retarded ignition! There is a coolant temperature sensor which retards the ignition when cold, if this isn't working it can produce non-start symptoms. Also, its possible that your ignition timing is off anyway. Or that in fact your battery, or alternator, or earth/power wires are in poor condition. Have you actually, properly, tested the alternator and battery? And have you confidently restored proper current flow to the starter motor?
Right, I disconnected both (?) negative leads into the coil, noticing that one has been badly bodged and soldered and both are quite crusty - I will clean these up. Anyway, the engine turned without any problems at all.
Yay! Connect the ignition again and then as above, set the timing until the car can easily start. Then measure the ignition timing (cold engine). Then warm it up and re-measure it. It sounds like your cold running retard (or might be advance? Not 100% sure) isn't working, or that your timing was too far advanced anyway. Note, that some engines don't make any more power when the ignition is advanced to the point of pinking, they run just as well with it backed off a little bit. So, you're not really missing out on power, just gaining the ability to start easier!
Thanks for your help Paul. I've neatened and cleaned the connections...but now its dark outside! What do you mean when you say 'measure the ignition timing'. Problem is that the delay isn't on every cold start, and as soon as its been started, it'll be fine next time around so its hard to compare.
Take the 10mm spanner with you then! It will get you out of trouble, if the car doesn't start. I do still suspect the thick wires or battery, though.
I'll have a play when I get a moment. The battery is near new and I've replaced the battery-to-starter wire with a new thick one. Maybe I should do the same with the earth then - might head to Maplin's tomorrow. What grade of wire would be good?
Could mark the original position, and 'do it by ear' anyway. Especially if the limit to how much advance can be set, is if it starts or not; not pinking.
Aye, doesn't matter how good the pathway to the starter motor is, if the return path is poor. The bigger the better really, as far as wire grade goes. Similar or bigger than what's there at the moment. Be aware that you need to do the terminations well, i.e. good-quality, correctly sized crimps and the appropriate crimp tool. Maplin may be able to do that for you, dunno. Better off really getting a proper 'braid' cable made up. Is the existing lead sleeved anywhere on its length? Just wondering if it has started to turn to dust inside any such sleeving, where you can't see it. With a cold engine, when that starter first goes, there's hundreds of amps flowing (briefly), or at least there should be, if the conductors are in good condition.
yeah but marking it cant be amazingly accurate.. 1 degree can hardly be seen.. you barely move the dizzy to move it 1 degree.. and listening to it, only a very experienced person will know when its out by 1 or 2 degrees, and with the help that this guy needs, i dont think its the best option for him to be doing... cheers
There's a sleeve over the earth from the chassis to gearbox, but not from the battery to chassis. I think replacing the earth is the way forward - it's only going to help anyway. I'll pick up some wire and crimps tomorrow if I get time. Where is best to go, as I'd want it done properly. Cheers.
A half-decent motor factors should be able to make some leads up to length for you. A welding shop would be another option. May not cost all that much from VW, I don't know. Edit: Do the test with the 'jump-lead extra earth' when it's cold tomorrow morning. If it's no better, you may be wasting your money.
Halfrauds do good really thick earth cable in different lengths that is what i swapped mine over for, as for dizzy you won't be opening a can of worms its quite easy to tell if the car is runnin crap or not, if you do back it off you only need to turn it a little you will probably have marks where it has been done up that you can turn it back to if you need to
I had a silmar problem when i first did my 2.0 conversion. The car would only turn over in spurts. If i was lucky enough for it to start it was fine but i often found that the struggle of turning over the engine was just instantly draining the battery. After checking many leads and three different starter motors. I was then advised to try a stronger deisel battery. This has worked for me and had no problems since.
Ok, I haven't gotten round to getting the jump leads out yet, but I've just been doing some reading. Prior to fitting the replacement starter motor, my dad painted the main body of the motor and solenoid in black paint. Although leaving the earth cord exposed that links the two, I have read that its not advised to paint the end of the starter. Could this be the cause of it all?
Hi That is not the earth cord. That wire is the one that carries the full juice of the battery to the 'starter' windings.
