Good point John mentioning the tach adapt,Bob Ashlock is a really good guy and his units are bulletproof unlike the MSD product that fails,I used Bobs unit for my 914/6 Porsche,had a few questions and he helped me ASAP and also helped me setup a trick ignition system. Wow this conversion is going to make one fast car,I have driven a 24V Eos and they are a really nice motor in a heavy car,in an MK2 it will be be a different story.
My friend that is helping with the swap is doing all the wiring for me. The plan is to have this running this weekend. I hope my hoses come in this weekend to as that’s all that will keep me from driving it but there not meant to show up until Monday These came in though
There made by the same company that makes the front lower rad support I’m using, Fabless Maufacuring. They make quality parts. My friend is sturggling with the wiring. He’s trying to follow RJ’s mk4 wiring thread but it's quiet a bit different between the harness used in the thread and the 24v one we’re using.
If you give @rubjonny a pm he will most likely be able to provide a link or guide for anything you need
So I’ve been told to use the mk3 vr6 oil filter housing but it doesn’t have the oil cooler attached to it. I was told to use this housing for the oil press switches but what do I do about the oil cooler?
ah sorry its the vr6 oil cooler cap you need to swap over to clear the front bracket, I forgot that the 24v type block has the oil cooler on the side of it: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/funkbarons-mk2-golf-24v-v6-now-breaking.173467/ with the 24v oil filter housing you have 1 hole for the MK4 switch which you bin and swap for the mk2 white 1.8bar switch, another with an allen head bung in you you remove and switch for the blue or brown 0.24 or 0.3 bar switch. then you also need a T piece if you want the MFA oil temp to work as well
I don’t think I’ll have an issue with the mk4 oil cooler because I bought a fabless manufacturing rad support with the 24v engine mount Wiring getting laid out
Got this all wired up this weekend but couldn’t get the fuel pump to work so I ordered a new one because we couldn’t get the pump to do anything even connected directly to the battery. I got the new pump installed today after about 30 minutes of loud noises and sware words. I tire the key and I still get nothing. I hooked the new pump up directly to the battery and it comes on but not with the key. I swapped the fuel relay and fuses but I’m still not getting anything. I need to know where to look next?
does the throttle body make any noise? if not you haven't got an ignition live to it, check fuses 17 and 18 for starters you might find one or both is missing and those power a couple ignition feeds which you may be using. to test fuel pump and wiring you can swap a 17, 18 or 100 relay into slot 2 which should power the fuel pump up with ignition regardless of what the ecu is doing
The throttle body moves with the pedal. We swapped the relay with a 17 and the pump came on. But we’re not getting any spark or fuel. We have power to the coil packs and the injeters.
The ECU only runs the pump, if there is an RPM signal. It does not send a low pulse to 'prime'. On 24v vehicles, a relay (428) with extra channels to say a door controller, is fitted to prime the pump prior to starting the engine.
