looking good,, when useing the vr6 coolant hoses and thurmostat housing do you need to use the vr crack pipe??
The Mk5 wiring is supposed to be harder to do. I used the Mk4 injectors to match the ECU, theres some info about that from Toyotec in the 'shopping list' thread.
I love what you've done to your Mk2 so far, all done properly and tastefully. If you have a Mk5 engine, you'll probably have to add an FPR to your shopping list won't you? Mk5 and 4 wiring are hardly different at all. Both just require stripping down to bare essentials and plugging into your fusebox in the same way. On my Corrado, I decided to cover the looms in the conduit stuff (in pics), with proper junctions etc from here: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=350 One other thing to note. I originally had the rear lambdas deleted on my ECU, this was to save the hassle of having to house the lambdas sticking out in the tunnel. It didn't run well at all. Put the lear lambdas back in and it ran perfectly. My advice would be to accomodate two cats if you can possibly fit them in (better flow anyway) and fit the rear lambdas if your using the OEM ecu. Kev's using a DTA so rear lambdas are of no consideration and therefore using a single cat if far easier. Best of luck with the install, will be keeping an eye on this!
I think I have mine still in there, but have coded them out. I am running no cats so it would just be the extra probes a few inches down the exhaust. I think that would make it run worse than coding them out! Why would anyone offer the service if it didn't work?
im going to see how it goes, if mine doesnt run right then im going to try a lambda simulator look at the second post down http://www.enginewiring.com/catalog.htm
im about to embark on a Mk4 R32 engine swap into a mk3 vr6, and there has been various bits of advice (all gratefully received) given to me, someone suggested to not even use the cats and the software can be coded to pass emissions, but personally i know the r32 engine ran perfectly well in my r32, so if it means cutting a little metal out of the tunnel to accomodate the rear lambdas (post cat ones) to have the engine running as it was suppossed to ill be doing that i think
I'm unsure about Relay 100 for the SAI, if I leave it there do I still need to connect the main power and earth wires that run to it or are they just for the pump? At the minute my battery(which i've lost ) only has the main power from the starter/alternator and the power to the fuse box on one side, and on the other the main earth to the engine/box, fuse box earth and one from the loom.
i always delete the sai relay and all accociated wiring, from my research it may log a fault but wont put it into limp? otherwise you can get it coded out. if you leave the relay in you can delete the 2 power wires to the sai pump and ecu shouldnt worry about it
I only wondered because one of the wires (blue/yellow) also goes to the MAF but I have no idea what it is.
blue/yellow is fuel pump power, you'll note the lambdas, carbon canister and a few other things are all spliced into this wire
Cool!! I'm not using anything to do with the R32 fuel system so I feel better about the wires now. These are the cut ones I can't ID: One near the throttle body with 3 cut wires, the one with the ticket is for the crancase breather/heater One at the opposite side of the head
the wires on the os of the head are for the oil level sensor in the sump. what colour wires is the other wires? cant quite work it out on my laptop
