Timing 8v TSR 2.0 - No start saga - Head removed - *FIXED*

The lift pump is ok as that's what I did to test it but I didn't test to see if the inline pump was priming too.

It has been cut about 6 inches from where the wire goes into the socket and was connected by a black one of these > Link

Looks like that's what they used for the alarm/immobiliser then as I haven't seen any other splicing on the important wires, just the indicators and what not.

There was some water in the footwell this morning so water is getting in so looks like I may have to get the fusebox out and check for any damage. The vacuum pipe that goes to the clocks hasn't got a bung so you can see into the engine bay so it's probably from there, hopefully.

Fuel pump fuse (18) is good although it does have a 10amp fuse in there rather than a 20 but it hasn't ever blown. How can I test the condition of the relay?

If I removed the fusebox is it a matter of the right plugs only fit in the right places or is it possible to plug things in wrong, of course the single terminal ones can be but what about the mass of plugs?

Is ignition switch something I should consider?

 

Cheers RJ I'll get on it tomorrow. I'll remove the whole fusebox if it still wont start and have a proper look for any water damage.

 

Still no luck with this, think it's about time to give up and trailer it to a garage [:^(]

Today I tried:

- New fuse in pos 18 (15 amp fuse as opposed to 20 as that's all I had but its new and didn't blow).
- Bypassed the ignition switch.
- Live feed to + side of coil from battery (battery/oil light comes on when attached as well as fuel/spark and injectors I think.
- Checked for fuel at the rail, visible fuel vapour from cyl 1 with plug out after some cranking.

Re-checked the spark and it doesn't seem that strong but I'm not sure if that was down to the earth point I used? I used the alternator bracket, the spark looks to be just sparking from just one of the 4 points on the spark plug.

What's the process for compression test? All spark plugs out, fuel pump fuse and crank till max pressure is reached on each cylinder?

Still can't see any movement on the rev counter when cranking as well! I'll check for continuity from the fusebox to the coil tomorrow but if that checks out I'm pretty out of ideas.

 

Inside The Fusebox

Just taken the fusebox out and got it in half and found this inside

What thaaa?

 

I have just un-soldered that wire and looks like it was put there because of a break in the board, no idea how that's managed to happen.

That's where the single terminals are for the live feed. There are quite a lot of visual marks and signs of water on most parts of the fusebox so I'll get on the bay now.


Just looking at the fuel pump relay now, some of the pins look marked from heat by the looks of it but the pumps are working ok so guess it's alright?

 

I have a fusebox on it's way to me now so I'll have a closer look at the wiring and plugs today and check there's no more bodging. Might end up buying a new relay anyway as their not much and this one does look a bit tired.

What do you suggest if there's still no sign of life after replacing the fusebox as I'm out of ideas really..

 

Fusebox has turned up, no locking bar and a missing piece from A1 socket so back that goes.

 

Just been testing the wiring from the fusebox plugs to engine bay and have been through:

Plug F
Pin 5 to ECU plug pin 1

Plug G1
Pin 3 to ECU plug pin 3
Pin 4 to coil pin 15
Pin 5 to earths on rocker cover
Pin 10 to ECU plug pin 14
Pin 12 to coil pin 1

Plug M
Pin 1 to fuel pump earth
Pin 2 to fuel live

I also checked the main live and earth for the fusebox as well as the single wire for the injectors all of which have continuity.

When I checked the fuel pump wiring for continuity I found that there's continuity on both pins of the fuel pump plug, it does this for live and earth from the fusebox side. So from plug M pin 1 (fuel pump live) to the inline fuel pump plug, the voltmeter beeps for continuity on both pins. It does this when going from earth to the plug too.

Is that right?

 

Ah right didn't think of that! Today I checked the voltage on the fuel pump plugs, both plugs have voltage of about 11v on the prime and 10.9v on cranking. Unplugged the lift pump and can hear the main pump working and vice versa. Also took the cover off the fuel pump relay and that looks ok too, it operates as it should I think.

After putting the replacement fusebox in and doing a bit of cranking there was a couple of times it sounded like it wanted to fire but then it would change it's mind and just crank.

So fed up with this now

 

Tried the continuity test with both pumps disconnected today and it doesn't beep for continuity like that. With either pump plugged in there's continuity across live and earth.

 

RJ - What do you think about it being the ECU? I can't find any info on them blowing other in the usual way (fuel pump running constantly) but still not getting any movement from the rev counter and nothing from the engine in terms of life..

 

I think my starter motor is knackered, it's quite slow at cranking and I thought it was the battery but tried a good battery today and it's no different. After about 5 secs cranking the earth cable from the starter gets fairly hot is this normal?

Anyway I did a compression test and got some wierdness..

Cyl 1 = 100psi
Cyl 2 = 200psi
Cyl 3 = 130psi
Cyl 4 = 165psi

Did the test three times and got roughly the same results on the last two but the first test showed 175psi on cylinders 1,2,4 and only 80 on cyl 3 but when I did it again I got different results which stayed consistent on the third test. Like I say though the starter seems lazy so I'm not sure how accurate the test was but I cranked till the psi peaked. How sensitive is the test to how fast the starter motor turns the engine?

 

Yeah I had the throttle wide open as well as all spark plugs out, fuel relay out and the starter was still struggling after a couple of secs cranking, definitely seems to have been getting worse to the point where it won't crank quickly for long at all but it's never had this problem before so I'm wondering if it's connected to the no start problem.

I have been looking at all the wiring and found some dodgyness.
First off I have found the +ve battery cable to be slightly damaged, the ring terminal on this is a cheap one as well which someone has cut the wire strands down to fit on The red wire that goes from alternator to starter is damaged as well, the ring terminal is held on by a few strands of wire.


Hall sender wiring near the plug, red wire holding together with 3/4 strands of wire..


Also the earths are all going into one wire is that right?

Same with the headlights too


Also found the wire insulation near the fuel rail plug missing but the wire hasn't been cut just the insulation removed, same story near the tci unit too. Maybe it's been home to a mouse at some point, it's certainly had some hacking.

You were right RJ where there is electrical tape there is dodgyness, I have removed it all now although I have tested the engine bay for continuity so not sure it'll make much difference but the hall sender wire was quite bad as are the +ve battery cable and alternator to starter wiring.

As for the earthing mine already has the gearbox stud, the earth cable actually looks ok with no frayed parts and the terminal looks ok too.