I have been recently been having knocking noises from the front right and I found out it was a loose strut nut. Recently I bought some tool for tightening it up as it can be a pain without the right tool. Unfortunately I haven't the foggiest on how to work it. I got it from gsf. It's the three piece tool. Anyone used these before or know how they work?
These tools seem to suggest that there should be two grooves in the nut but there aren't. What is wrong? Please help!!!!
hi there, it depends what model car you have. On certain models, you need the tool you have and an allen key to slot through the centre of it. Basically the tool you have is to hold the nut still whilst using an allen key to turn the strut and tighten it up. If you don't have the grooves in the but, then gsf have probably supplied you with the wrong tool. Best thing is to take it back and ask someone to have a look to tell you what exactly you need to do.
slotted nut is below the hex nut and is only used to hold the shocker assembly together.... hope the pic helps
I see, I'm trying to tighten up the hex nut without slots. The one numbered 12. So I need a swan necked ring spanner? I have one but I tried using it and because it is recessed the spanner can't get down far enough. What is the advice?
Well i did that before when i was replacing them in my old golf and the molegrips kept on slipping so i had to use some rubber. On the one though it was done up so tight that it slipped anyway. I had to cut that one up with an angle grinder, I had a replacement off another car that was going to the scrappy that time though. What are these stillsons? Or is there another tool to use, I've heard of lambda sensor sockets being used and the like?
I used a spark plug socket for my old shock nuts, then had to get a lambda/diesel injector socket for the new nuts as they were bigger for some reason! They sparky/lambda sockets have spanner flats in the top, so you can tighten it whilst holding the strut still with an allen key/socket thru the middle
Never used that before, found it on the net. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22mm...ryZ35625QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I personally used a box wrech with a normal spanner attached to top of the box wrench, then a long allen socket through the centre of the box wrench.. box wrench required is here (it is 22mm bolt I think) http://www.toolbank.com/product.cfm...=5DFD49F795AC13B440F9A8B7CE4294D2a3ugxga3ugn0 Normal socket is no good as you need to grip form the outside as the allen must go through the centre..
Trouble is that's in the good old U S of A. Know of any in the UK? I have had a quick look but with no success.
Well, changed all the shocks on mine and had to grind two flats on a 22mm socket. Used an adjustable to hold the socket. Worked a treat for me.
The tool g60racing showed is virtually the same as a lambda socket, apart from it has a larger slot cut in it. When I used the sparky socket to remove the shoks I just used an average length allen key, it wasn't overly big?
Good thinking batman. No joke that is good thinking. Just a bit of common sense and look where it gets you! Thanks!
HI Guys i have had the same problem and i had it tightend up when it was in the garage but it feels like its come loose again any ideas? or are you meant to use threadlock? will it come loose if you dont get your alignment and tracking sorted straight away?
The top nut should be replaced whenever you have the suspention off, as its a self-locking nut. AFAIK the slotted nut however is fine to re-use. It only costs pence tho so I normally order new ones when I do suspention upgrades. My lowering kit has been on there for a few months now, and I've not noticed any problems. Alignment & tracking won't have anything to do with it, in fact its best to leave it for a couple of weeks for the suspention to settle before you get it set up