Tubular seat rail installation

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by A.N. Other, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. gofasterpinch Forum Member

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    dont know if anyones seen this but:

    [​IMG]

    proper FIA release regarding seat rails.
     
  2. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Steve how are you getting on with that kit pictured above?


    Do you have anys pics of the lap belt mounts mate?
     
  3. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    For reference - the standard inertia reel mounting point is the bolt adjacent the extinguisher bottle ... which, when compared to the Willans installation guide is too far back.

    Does this help ?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Did you get them from demon tweeks & are they a captive plate you weld on then screw the eyelets in?

    cheers

    mike
     
  5. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    The eyebolts can be sourced from DT, I secure them using a `non welded` plate that is tapped with a 7/16" UNF thread to which I add a 7/16" UNF Nyloc (except near the exhaust). These plates are also available from DT and are different to the `weld on` plates that include a captivated nut.

    HTH`s

    Mk1 - between sill and seat runner

    [​IMG]

    `Weld on` plate

    [​IMG]

    Mk1 - for the double skinned `tunnel` fixing I removed the heatshield for access
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2008
  6. steve r

    steve r Forum Member

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    Seat tubes are now fitted on both sides. The original seat rails were very well attached to the car so we cut the top and bottom section off from them and left the rest spotwelded to the car. In the pics below you will see we didn't use the extra plates in these locations but did on the drivers seat forward tube as it is welded onto single skin.

    Drivers forward tube, cut to shape and plates shaped to fit:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Drivers sidetunes fitted:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And passenger

    [​IMG]

    I thought the kit was very good and made the job quite easy.
     
  7. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    thanks so much for that lads, steve why do the end plates have holes in them before welding?
     
  8. steve r

    steve r Forum Member

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    Not too sure, maybe so the tube is welded directly to the car as well as the plate.
     
  9. F2 Stu Forum Member

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    [​IMG]

    Makes my bolt seat rails look far too complicated!

    Weld in rails a job for the winter I think.
     
  10. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Steve - what were DT's tube diameters, tube wall thicknesses and tag thicknesses out of interest? I'd guess 3mm, possibly 2.5?

    My Mk1 has tag thicknesses of 3mm, which are Custom Cages.
     
  11. steve r

    steve r Forum Member

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    Tube:

    OD is 2.54mm / 1 inch
    Wall is 1.65mm / approx 1/16th inch?

    Plates are 1.46mm.
     
  12. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    I ended up getting some 1 x 2" box tubing 3mm today & some end plates also 3mm.

    will have to diet to make up for the extra weight :lol: .
     
  13. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Which part is the heat shield? [:$] & is it ok to just weld these straight to the tunnel inside the car as it is in the mk1?
     
  14. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    I put them on the underside of the tunnel - saves MIGing
     
  15. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    Do you mean from the outside Chris?

    Does it matter which way these go on, in that does the nut part have to go within the wall in a recess or can the nut face outward towards the seat?
     
  16. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    My Mk1 had an exhaust heatshield in the centre tunnel, I removed it when I used the type of fitting below. I did not use the larger type fitting pp your post as it does not fit the curvature of the tunnel.

    I always fit these items from below (outside), I don`t weld them.

    The fitting you have referred to has to be installed with the nut `away` from the eyebolt - see the Willans guide below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Agree - nut away from the eyebolt, adding yet more strength, since the nut spreads load on the plate, and then on the shell itself.

    Just requires logical thinking really!
     
  18. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    yeah i was thinking that just that i was hoping the exhaust wouldn't have to come off & me have to go under the car as i have no ramps & only 2 axle stands & also it was mentioned about the tunnel being double skinned...


    James those ones you pictured look like the ones in Demon Tweeks, bottom of page 172 "eye bolt plate" complies with FIA (to be welded to bodyshell for eyebolt fixing) DB418 1.97.

    The sqare ones which you say are no good are on the bottom of page 171 "stress plate" SPLATE 0.67
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2008
  19. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    You have to get under the car - raise the offside only and secure it.

    I removed the heat shield without removing the exhaust; the double skin is not an issue at all wrt drilling and fixing.

    Eye bolt plates - your choice !
     
  20. fthaimike Forum Addict

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    cheers, will order 2 of the type you used james
     

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