i'll take a good look tomorrow then, the only thing is the holes etc are all in the same places but one gasket ahs rubber bits where the other doesn't and vice versa, i wonder would this be a problem??
Yeah, the other holes will all line up (otherwise you couldn't fit an 1800 head on a 2 litre block....) It's just a question of whether the main bore holes are big enough. If they overhang the pistons will hit it, and cause the gasket to fail. ... and you don't really want to fit it 3 times, do you?
cheers mate have just got back with my freshly skimmed head, was a bit low in the middle so he took 4 thou off to get it flat. also picked up a new inlet, exhaust, head gasket and new head bolts. used a local motor factors and they had febi bolts which i'm hoping are better quality, the instructions on the box are alot more indepth too, with backing off etc so hopefully this work a bit better. on the box it says to oil the threads and the head of the bolt, are we talking engine oil here or what?? i haven't got a tap thats the same size as the head bolts to try and clean out the threads in the block, but all the bolts go in pretty easily. am going to blow everything out with an airline to make sure there's no oil or crap in there. i hope this sorts it as its turning into being a bit of nightmare cheers Chris
Engine oil is fine. Best way to clear the holes is carb cleaner, if you haven't got a tap. You can just blast it into the holes, then blow it dry with an airline. Judging by your pics there will be a load of water in there, presume you didn't drain the coolant before you pulled the head!
i did do yes mate, but the head still seemed to be full of water when i pulled it off?? i've got some carb cleaner so will do as you advised thanks for the info Chris
I use a syringe with a piece of washer tube on the end to suck the oil and water out of the bolt holes first... I think the tap is 11mm x 1.5, which isn't a standard size.
pulled 2 valves out just to check that the stem seals were seated and looked newish and look what i found i'm no expert but there is no way these are new!! these look like when i had a go at removing some on another head with a **** pair of pliers i'm going to have to pull them all out and replace now, no way i'm going to e38 tomorrow now[:^(] Chris
Can't really tell from the pics, but did they look loose around the valves, before you pulled them out? It's actually better not to pull the valves out past them, so if you put them back in for another look, lube the valve stem and tease them in gently... you could try dripping oil down the stem to see if it looks like it's going past the seal, but not a great test with cold oil.
the metal outer sleeve of the seal is all burred and dented, it looks like somebody has tried to pull them out with some long nose pliers but then thought sod it. i've got a set of new seals so will just replace them all then i know its done. the haynes says to use a new valve for checking the seats, i don't have one, is there any other way of checking the wear or servicability of them?? any tips on fitting the valve stem oil seals on top of what mister haynes says?? cheers Chris
Sounds like the seals are knackered then... Checking the valve seats? I'd use a LITTLE bit of valve grinding paste on the lip of the valve. Turn the valve gently and make sure it makes a smooth even line in the paste where the valve meets the seat. Make sure you get all the paste off afterwards. Not sure what Haynes says for the seats - I use a long socket to push them on, and lube the valve stem and the inside of the seal, while using the little plastic sleeve that comes in the pack of seals.
whoops, meant guides not seats there Mike sorry. ] have changed all the stem seals now, used a piece of deburred copper pipe and a toffee hammer to gently push them home. some of the lower spring caps were all dented etc too, so replaced them with some good ones i had. will have to just see what happens when i fit it all tomorrow now, fingers crossed!! going to e38 in the morning so will have to get it done tomorrow afternoon all being well. cheers Chris
Keep going mate, looks like everything is now going in the right direction. I'm certain you'll get there in the end, just don't give up!
cheers for the words of encouragement mate it helps much appreciated not going to make e38, going to work in about an hour to put the head back on and see if its going to work, will report back, hoepfully with some good news Chris
got the head and everything back on just need to **** about with the timing and the dizzy and should be ready to start tomorrow morning, fingers and toes crossed Chris
right just started her up and everything was looking rosey, then after 2 minutes running the white smoke and crap starts pumping out of the exhaust. it can't be the head this time, as i've had it skimmed, fitted all new gaskets, febi head bolts (which wen't down really well) folowed the instructions to the letter. it must be in the block as this is the only thing i haven't had apart. i take it this is going to be the oil control rings?? to be honest after all this hassle i wish i'd gone down the 16v route now as i could of just bought a whole lump. i need a car for sunday so looks like i'll ahev to spend all weekend (again) putting the old engine back in Chris
You could still have oil or water in the exhaust which will take a while to clear - it would only start smoking once the exhaust got hot. Run it for a while and see if it clears up.
yeah mate don't give up so easily. let it run for a while and see if it clears. A bit of water in the system will make it produce white smoke. white smoke isn't as bad as black smoke! is it still running ok even with the smoke pouring out the back? mite be just running way too rich or something.
Yeah my 16v did this chucked out loads of white smoke, so I disconnected the 5th injector, cold start or whatever it is and no more smoke. Ran perfect after that.
