I read higher up that it's got a 285 cam in it... that should help it cope with a higher static CR, provided it's getting enough fuel. Is it a digi or a Kjet car? I can't be bothered to go back and check.
its a mk1 gti cabriolet running k-jet mate by CR you mean comp ratio right?? didn't manage to get out in it today as had to work through lunch , will defo get out in it tomorrow though.
It'll need a proper setup to run right on Kjet- you could back off the timing for now, but unless you've already done it, a 16v WUR should be on the list, and maybe a 16v metering head (I think it'll fit, or a 1.6 GTI one, which will fit) to flow more fuel. Is the head flowed as well?
yes head is ported and polished so i need the wur off a mk2 16v then to optimise everything?? i have a mk2 16v that i could measure its metering head up to see if it fits, so if it fits is it just a case of disconnecting the banjos on the mk1 one and reconnecting to the 16v one?? the other mod i wanted to do was the audi tb , i do have one off the audi 80 sport that the 3a came out of, the inlet size is the same, and the secondary butterfly valve is a fair bit bigger. just all the switches are different. read that its a audi 5 cyl one thats ideal as it just bolts in. cheers for the advice Chris
ref the setup, was planning on taking it to stealth for final setup, just need to get it running enough to get through the mot etc first then will book it. Chris
I think the Mk2 16v TB will bolt on as well - not sure if the switches are the same, but you could swap those over. In either case, you need to do a bit of DIY porting on the manifold to match the bigger TB. I think the metering heads will swap too, but haven't tried it. I'm planning to do the same thing on my scirocco. Pics to follow in a minute.
oh yes been waiting for something to try my die grinder out on just need to have a sift through fleabay now why do the 16v and 1600 metering heads flow better mate?? Chris
Pic... this shows the size of the 16v TB butterflies vs the 8v Scirocco ones. The first (small) one is the same, but the second is much bigger. I've used the separate outer part of the 16v TB here, to illustrate. The butterflies in the actual TB are the same size. I've also had a quick line-up, and it looks like it will bolt on ok. I'll try a proper trial fit tomorrow. That's a glove, btw... I'm not THAT pale! Meantime... you should worry about the oil issue first... you can get it running without this.
According to Tim Stiles' book - the Mk1 1600 has a different design of metering pin, which flows more fuel. The 16v should do so because it was designed to support a more powerful engine, which would need more fuel if being run hard. The 16v metering head and WUR are good for nearly 200 bhp, going by the cars running with them.
i was going to ask if you had pink eyes there for a min mate will find out tomorrow the score with the pressure, if not i think its going to have to be head off time so apart from taking out the excess metal in the inlet manifold, is it just a straight swap?? thanks for the info Chris
Nothing's ever that simple, but it should be close! I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow. I'm assuming the cabby manifold is the same as my 'rocco 8v one (airbox sits on the passenger's side)?
Y'know... just to rule out oil in the exhaust... maybe you should run it on just the downpipe - I think you said you had some off-road space to run it... or 'borrow' another zorst to stick on. Where are you based?
yes mate airbox on the right as you look under the bonnet from the front. i'm just north of peterborough on the a1, i do still have the old one but i chucked the long rubbers to fit it, and also the tang/bracket on the center box is snapped off its in a bit of a sorry state tbh. so if i run just on the downpipe and its still smoking at that point its likely its internal block/head probs. normal exhaust gases exiting should be fairly invisible there, even that close to the engine?? Chris
yes... there's nowhere for the oil to collect in the 8v downpipe... after a little bit of time to heat it up. You could always run it for a bit with the zorst on, and take it off to check the downpipe for smoke... it'll be hot though (gloves!) BTW - I trial fitted the 16v TB cowling, to show how the TB itself will line up... needs longer bolts but they do line up... you can see in this pic where it needs to be flowed out a bit. I might slot the bolt holes a bit, just to make more clearance for the small butterfly - it's a bit close to the edge of the manifold.
should flow very nicely once you've fettled that mate i'm begining to think TSC's theory on too much oil is correct as i've found (i think) a few more clues that point towards it. managed to get out in it for 30 ish mins at lunch. smoked like hell on start up but then cleared with a bit of revs, took it for a blat with a mate following, theres no smoke when giving it some. but when i park up it starts smoking again. the oil light didn't come on at any point but now the oil is below the dipstick end completely i got a bit scared then and thought what happens if the sensors knackered and my cam and block eat each other is there any way of proving the oil sensor?? it is the one on the right of the head looking from the front right?? on my t-break i pulled the plugs and they're all caked in oil/crud this made me think that it must be something with the block again. then mulled it over a bit more and thought, if there is too much oil in there the only way (i think) of the oil getting out is through the breather. so i pulled the breather pipe and there is oil in there. i wouldn't say its full but its the same viscosity as oil from the sump, not dried out and sticky. then took the rubber top boot off the metering head and low and behold there is oil on there too as i'm not sure whats "normal" i can't be sure, but this would explain why the black crap is in all 4 cylinders, as the oil must be getting in to the air before it reaches the inlet manifold. somebody tell me i'm right if thats the case i need to find out what is the correct dipstick, dipstick tube and orange spacer lengths. cheers Chris
I assume the breather pipe is attaching to the airbox or TB, so would be sucked back into the engine and burnt. Normally this doesn't matter, but you've got too much. To finish this once and for all... It's a bit of work, but a lot less than changing an engine! 1. Clean your plugs 2. Clean out your breather pipes, and wherever the pipe goes to, and the inlet tract as much as you can. Petrol and a baby's bottle brush through the TB and Inlet is a good idea, or carb cleaner and a brush (even a toothbrush?) 3. Empty the oil out of the engine (into a clean container if you want to re-use it for the purposes of the test.) 4. Put 3 litres of oil back in - either new, or the stuff you just emptied out (which as you didn't change the filter, will be at mid-lowish end on a correct dipstick. See if you've got one that gives you that sort of reading, once the oil has had time to dribble down into the sump (an hour if the oil is cold?) Take it for a gentle run and get it hot, to burn off the remaining oil, but don't chuck it about with a lowish oil level. Watch the warning light (side of the head sensor) and listen for the buzzer (filter bracket sensor). Watch the oil temp on the MFA if you've got it too (other sensor on the filter bracket). After the run, if there's new oil in the breather/airbox you've got a problem somewhere If the plugs are a bit black again, that could still be residual oil from the inlet manifold (it'll be hard to clean that out properly, and if you look inside the TB down the inlet, it's probably pretty gunky) But, if you run it for 20-30 minutes, and the plugs aren't as black as now, and the exhaust is less smoky, it might be ok... I'd then run it for a bit more and see if it continues to improve. The problem is that now you've got oil everywhere, it keeps feeding the engine and making more smoke. It needs a good clean out of the inlet side to give you any sensible results.
the pipe comes straight off the rocker cover and feeds in to the airbox directly after the air filter exit. i think i'll remove the inlet manifold and clean it in the chemical bath at work, then i can work at cleaning everything else. as you say alot better than an engine change i had lined up an agg block with 90k for 30 quid as i was so sure it was toast. feel like i'm getting somewhere now Chris
An AGG block for 30 quid is a bargain... if the bores are good. Not doing another engine change is better though. Best check the rocker cover too.
I wouldn't worry about cleaning the manifold until you've checked the oil level situation. Yes, that'll smoke it a wee bit but will soon clear. Draining the oil and refilling will take all of ten minutes, then you can see if the problem is fixed - and if so, go about cleaning things! I doubt it will be the crankcase breather, as they usually block, build up pressure, then shoot a huge gob of oil into the intake which smokes james-bond style and then just clears in a few miles. On the way to my last RR day my valver did exactly that, and completely blocked the road behind me to the extent that the guy following couldn't even see the end of his bonnet! It was overfilled as well as the blocked breather, because on the way there the oil cap had come off and sprayed oil everywhere - I was late so just chucked in 2l of oil from a garage to make sure it wouldn't run dry. Once we parked up at the RR, it leaked about half a litre of oil from the airbox onto the ground...
