We have acquired an Audi R32 24v BHE engine from a TT for the Golf. We took a punt as it was cheap, the seller was genuine but there was no history. The engine had been out of its previous bay for about a year but the seller said he had seen it run (albeit in a video I think). The seller had started stripping the engine of ancillaries but they are all there. There are a couple of cut hoses. It has come with two ECUs, the original and a de-immobilised one. Anyhoo, we thought it would be sensible to have a look inside before we carried on too far. We bought a camera thingy and poked it about in through the spark plug holes. This is some of what we saw. We sent the pictures to a local(ish) engine builder who I know(ish but highly recommended by my MOT guy who maintains his race car with him) for them to have a look at. They suggested that 4 and 5 may be water damage. The lines at the top of the picture concern me a little but he did not mention them. We have decided to remove the head and take the block and head to him for inspection. Now, we have looked at some Utubiness and it seems fairly straightforward but I have a couple of questions. 1. Is it necessary to remove the cams to undo the head bolts. Would it be better to leave them in place until we know whats what? 2. Is the sequence to undo the head bolts simply a reversal of the tightening sequence? Here's hoping it's just a case of a hone rather than anything more intrusive. I will keep this thread going as we progress as there will be many more questions. However, this is a slow burner and we don't envisage getting to the install for at least a year
Cutting hoses is normally a method used in scrap yards to make removing the engine quicker. I would leave anything in place that does not need removing for access but not having done what you are about to do I could be wrong. 2. I would remove the head bolts as you say in reversal of the tightening sequence.
Not at all familiar with the r32, but it's quite normal to have to remove cams, in a multi valve head, to access head studs/nuts. Just mark everything, and put it back where it came from. Cams, shims/buckets, cam caps and so on. Be careful to open all the cam carriers/caps evenly. And yes, standard operating procedure for head stud opening is as you thought. I always do them in stages, rather than fully loosening each in turn.
Have a look at Humble mechanic on You tube , he 'tears down' many VR6 motors on his channel. I've had the head off the old 12v vr6 and changed cams at the same time so can't remember if it's required or not. (it was in 2005-6)
The cams do not have to be move to remove the cylinder head. Upper chain cover, stat and maybe 1 cam phaser. I have a few engines and have had to take apart my 3.2T in the early days of development a few times.
