As the title says, I'd like to know exactly how much is involved with installing a Weber carb and what exactly I'd expect to gain from it. I know it increases power, but by how much and are there any other benefits? Is a fitting kit necessary? Are there cheaper/easier ways of increasing power? Cheers
The power increase really isn't anything to shout about, the advantages are: - It's simpler so has less to go wrong, if its new you'll know its all working properly - Can be rejetted on a rolling road to match other modifications. - Sounds better! Disadvantages are: - Loss of the autochoke (if it was working in the first place ) -Worse fuel economy. The fitting kit will be necessary! The seller in that link does the carb and fitting kit together IIRC, also GSF sell the same kit for a similar price (circa 220). TBH if there's nothing wrong with your Pierburg I wouldn't bother, I made the swap because I didn't want to start trying to fix the Pierburg, they're about as complicated as a carb gets! As for the effort of installation its really not difficult if you have a bit of tinkering experience and tools, a new kit will come with fitting instructions. There's a few other mods for this engine but don't expect wonders, you'll find plenty of threads if you do a search. HTH.
Would this also need a fitting kit? If there's nothing wrong... Hm, no not yet. And the worse fuel economy is a turn-off, I was hoping it would improve. I've bought a new K&N filter to replace the original, hoping that would help. Do these or these things work, or just not on the 1.6 because it can't automatically adjust the air/fuel mixture? So far I've found this thread, which well, wasn't too helpful, and this one which is, but doesn't answer my question. Oh and to satisfy anyone's curiosity, MK2 driver = 550. MK4 = 5xxx? Also insurance was far cheaper on the MK2. Reason I need the power is because I'll be carting canoes up and down the country, so... Need a bit of oomph to make up for the extra weight strapped to the roof. But no, no 2L conversions. Comes back to insurance. Want to do things that are subtle and if possible reversible
I'm guessing that more or less sums it up? Would the DIY cold air intake work (better)? How would be done on a Driver?
non of this ebay bolt on tat will do anything to improve your car racey air filters , elec superchargers , petrol tank gadgets ...all poop get the weber if your old one is faulty and leave it at that
This guy says pretty much the opposite of Weber carbs. Anyone else got a couple of cents to throw in?
Definately worth doing. If you PM me your e-mail address I've got a guide for the whole conversion I can e-mail to you. Done this to my 1.8 Driver and so glad I did it! Car feels alot smoother, seems to pull a bit better and it's 1000% more reliable!
The only thing I can add to post#2 is that if you currently have the original Pierburg 2e2 fitted, and the autochoke is not working well, then you may well see an improvement in mpg if you get the Weber 32/34 DMTL and it is jetted optimally for your engine. If the Pierburg (and its required coolant feed) has been badly neglected, you may well see (seemingly) spectacular power gains as you are comparing a broken thing with a working thing. I've not heard credible evidence of better mpg with the Weber vs a fully working 2e2. P.S. Jamie; wasn't it you that had a 2e3 from a 1.3 engine on yours before the Weber?
Pete: I'm not sure, I think we thought that for a bit but found out it wasn't? How can I tell? It's sat in my garage I ended up biting the bullet and just buying a brand new weber carb kit.
Well I could tell from your pics of it that it was not a 2e2; only the VW (or other) part number on it will tell you/me what it came off. Apologies thegave for off-topicness.
i fitted one to our 1300 that had a badly running pooburg i was really disapointed at first when i found no more power at all, id guess the mpg is similar to a properly running pooburg compared to a pooburg with problems , its great ..the car starts first time everytime and never stalls etc and its really easy to tune etc etc but i think if the pooburg is close to running normal then you wont notice much at all...i think the people that see big gains have very badly running cars in the first place
So it essentially reclaims horsepower lost through wear/tear/neglect of the existing components. Geh. But if I want to go the whole GTi cam/manifold/downpipe then I should definitely get the Weber first?
To add my 'two pence' worth, as far as a carb goes the pierburg is an excellent unit. People say they're crap and unreliable but we are talking about 120K mile cars here. I have swapped to webers in the past but purely for the simple fact that pierburgs are dear to get parts for and with all of the components it can be hard to know what's wrong. The weber is a better choice for tuning as (has already been said) it can be easily rejetted. A weber with a GTi cam, a full standard gti exhaust system and a k-jet GTi dizzy will produce a decent power gain. But to reiterate completely what EZ_Pete said, you wont notice better performance from a weber (unless the pierburg was knackered to begin with)
Okay I'll hold out on it until the Pierburg goes and then do everything in one go. Is there anything I can do with the "elephant trunk" air intake hose? Is it okay if I remove it completely?
No. If you remove it, you'll have carb icing problems; I know this well from experience. Ensure that the hose is in good condition, and also ensure that the heat shield on the exhaust manifold that it connects to is in good condition also.
Think he means the foam-covered cold air hose that goes to the wing? If so, and it's falling to bits, apply it forcefully to the depths of your dustbin. Problem solved.
Yeah the one that goes to the wing. It's actually new and in perfect condition but I have a problem starting (it runs rough for a couple of minutes) which goes away when I unplug the hose from the wing. Also figured it would be less restrictive without. I think the pipe Trev was referring to is the warm-air intake hose? Does changing to a K&N factory replacement filter prevent/reduce carb icing? Or is that only in conjuction with a Weber?
