Wiring up Idle Control Valve

OK ECU Bosch 0261200298 digifant 2 037906022N engine code 026103373AA 2pin idle/wot switches I think if that's the ones on the throttle body

 

Thanks for the tips the airflow meter has been checked and set up to parameters so I'll look are try non return valve on the fuel pump side as cheap option and the ignition amp is just fixed to the engine bay up high and not well vented so certainly worth checking. Out of interest do the ignition amps fade over time and get worse with heat if they get too hot as this might explain why cold start is perfect hot is not Before I ask one to many dumb questions do you know anyone in the sw area who may be able to help as I've reached the end of my limited knowledge. Thanks again the tips and advice on here is a wonderful resource

 

Hi is this what I'm after definitely no heat sink on mine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HELLA-IG...-/254193537534?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

 

Okay so still on the hot start trail looking for a solution. Just had the injectors out cleaned by injectortune (great service) and tested and all fine so no change once refitted still getting to much fuel ⛽ to injectors at warm start. Followed the 8v set up so far all mechanical side I think is OK starts first time cold and drives lovely just won't start warm and driving me . I've read elsewhere on here if the ecu fails it will keep the injectors open and the fuel pump on all the time. The fuel pump on my vehicle primes and turns off on ignition point 1 so I'm hoping ecu is fine but have a replacement on its way. Can I just check so I don't cook the ecu I need an earth from the battery - to the engine normally on the gearbox housing. I've definitely got an earth on the vehicle body from the ecu but have not tracked an earth from the battery which is upfront in my T25 conversion. I also wondered if a wiring fault generally would result in a similar issue with overfueling as I'm tempted to get my loom spaghetti tested from the ecu pin connection end.

 

Thanks for your reply and further advice. Yes the part numbers for injectors were 0280150902 and the injector tester said they were a older more reliable design which uses a 4-hole gauze for a finer mist and he provided a nice test readout before and after cleaning so they are now all ok and none were leaking. We've changed the fpr (Pierburg 3bar)and put a non return valve after the fuel pump but im not convinced the garage tested for pressure appropriately nor did they check the rail wasn't leaking fuel which would indicate the ecu is gone. To be honest I'm struggling to find a garage that will spend time going systamatically through your great setup as most seem to want to work on simple fixes hence my plan to test the wires with an auto electrician and ensure signals are reaching the appropriate bits and the Maf sensor is within parameters etc. I'm not a very good DIY mechanic either so if there is a local enthusiastic one down here who wants some beer money I'd be delighted to receive some on the job help
. The following has been done fpr replacement, new distributor, new starter amp, Maf cleaned but I think sensor overiden using dial under sealed cap) timing checked, throttle body cleaned and throttle set up, new spark plugs, air filter cleaned vacuum pipes and hoses checked. None of the above has helped hot starting cold start fine every timr but even after approximately 5 minutes use it takes about 10-20 turns of starter to fire up then drives fine again. My guess after reading too much Google is injectors are open all the time from start flooding engine but any more educated ideas would be most welcome

 

Thanks again I have a spare Maf so I'll do your test on the digital resistance and if OK pop that back in

 

Okay tested back up Maf 0.664 at pins 3 & 4 2770 1 and 4 which Correlates with resistance curve at house temp of around 20 degrees and between 2 and 3 resistance goes up and down with flap so hopefully spare maff is OK if I'm reading the guide correctly I'll check the Maf in the vehicle later.

 

Updated the Maf in va. 0.9 at pins 3 & 4 and 1000 which Correlates to outside temp so that looks OK. Interestingly car normally starts first time cold but was differing a little and turned the key to position 1 for longer than normall and same issue I've been getting at hot start it didn't start so maybe my injectors are stuck on from ecu

 

New hella coolant sensor fitted but will test it also, just to be sure

 

So quick update following feedback from auto electrician all wiring from ecu tests fine and good spark but he has discovered that when in cranking mode the injectors are on full bore. He is aware of ecu causing injectors to be always on when blown but he says that is also normally accompanied by fuel pump been always on to which mine isn't and only injectors on fully in crank mode at start. Does anyone know what could be causing this other than the ecu or perhaps associated sensor?

 

Thanks I have a spare ecu so will give this a try. I confirm we have checked the earth's before this goes in to be sure there good so we don't cook it. Out of interest if it's not the ECU could anything else send a spurious single at Crank to turn the injectors on fully I was thinking perhaps accelerator pedometer wiring fault. My final question is if this only happens at crank and we can temporarily turn off the full injector signal to help the hot start (like an old choke on/off) is this a sensible fall back to try or would you advise finding the pesky fault as clearly that would be a non standard mod which shouldn't be needed

 

Thanks I'll update once we close down a few more avenues but at least we know the injectors at crank are the cause of hot start and who knows we might find a future solution for anyone else unlucky enough to experience this fault

 

Okay so electric system is fine and the problem has been narrowed down to fuel pressure too high as when fuel pipe restricted a bit the engine starts when hot. I've fitted a new 3bar pierburg fpr but am now wondering how else I can reduce fuel pressure perhaps new fuel pump any ideas greatly appreciated but we are nearly there just need a last push to get over the line