can check fuel pressure as per the picture I put up on last page, that'll help you narrow down the issue. check the return line isnt blocked first of all that would be one way pressure is too high even with new fpr. make sure the vacuum line is correctly hooked up as well it should be on the nipple closest to the inlet manifold
Hello can I check the vac line I have two nipples available the one closest to the crank case breather pipe is not attached to anything and is open to air the one next two it heading towards the fuel return is connected to the fpr is this correct
on the throttle you have 3 vacuum nipples, the one round the back and the one nearest the rubber boot are both capped off and the one nearest the inlet manifold goes direct to the FPR (originally theres a T piece to also feed warm air feed flap in airbox but this can be deleted)
Quick update we have put a jubilee clip on the main fuel line feeding the rail and reduced the pipe to simulate lower pressure fuel entering the fuel rail and this has confirmed high fuel pressure is causing the hot start problem so now its a case of identifying root cause and fixing that and hopefully sorted
Cheap fuel pressure gauge kits are available...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Inj...995959?hash=item420c49aab7:g:U6AAAOSwlj9dy6uk
Would love to know why my pb starves at 4k. Could you put gauge in car when driving to see what happensdo you think?
I guess you could. The gauge is connected to the nipple at the end of the fuel rail (having removed the end screw plug) by a length of 7mm fuel hose. It's just a case of using a suitable length of hose to have the gauge on view in the car. Do make sure all the connections are firmly fixed..you wouldn't want fuel under 3 Bar pressure spraying in either the engine bay or the inside of the car!
I think I'm going to try this. Already set fire to it once emptying cylinders full of petrol (ecu bad earth) and forgot to disconnect coil when cranking. Not something I want to repeat!
OK fuel pressure has tested fine so all my magic jubilee clip is doing is reducing fuel flow to injectors. We think the ecu is sending a cold fuel map to the injectors rather than understanding the engine is hot. To help advice we have fitted a hella temp sensor and ecu plug reading back to sensor is ok so not sure what could be causing it now so any ideas greatly received as drawn a blank again!
HI sourced a replacement ECU and this fixed fault however despite me asking about earths to engine and getting assurances it is ok it appears my earth is not and I have blown my second ECU so in need of another Digifant II Bosch 0261200298 037906022N if any one can help me replace I would be most grateful
I can do it for you if you need, it normally takes some MOSFETS out too which I can replace. Would be interested to take a look at your old ECU to see if I can find what was wrong with it, seems like you had a really odd fault so it would be nice to see if I can diagnose it!
Hi, I have the same problem, I’m Spanish my English is very bad, I need the diagrams, but I can’t see this, the page said “you haven’t permission” what’s the problem? Thanks
fixed them, the problem was becasue they were so huge the forum put them as attachments rather than normal image (6000 pixels wide )
Hi my problem is, I don’t have 12v in the isv, if you have a mail, send me a private message for send you a video with a problem
first check would be you have ignition live to the black wire on your isv controller, and earth on the brown/white
once you get more posts this option will become available, so thats all good. have you checked both wires from isv to the controller are good as per the 1st post? the black/yellow wire on the controller is the idle switch closed feed, you should see ignition live here with throttle closed then 0v when throttle is open. the green/red goes to the temp sensor on the side of the head, to check the sensors on the head swap the yellow/red dash temp wire to each one and take the car for a drive to make sure the dash temp readings are roughly the same on all 3. Alternatively you can check the resistances: -20°c - 6.5k ohm -15°c - 5k ohm -10°c - 3.8k ohm -5°c - 3.05k ohm 0°c - 2.5k ohm 20°c - 1000 ohm 40°c - 450 ohm 60°c - 250 ohm 80°c - 140 ohm 90°c - 102 ohm 100°c - 75/100 ohm 110°c - 50 ohm 120°c - 47.5 ohm