Yet again 36-1 question

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by notenoughtime, Nov 6, 2016.

  1. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Why hasn't someone on here built or building a trigger wheel kit to bolt on KR etc?

    I need some info please what have you done/built/bought

    Yes I know I can buy a trigger wheel from eBay and bolt/weld onto the original pulley then fabricate a bracket

    But some of what I've seen doesn't inspire me!

    The other issue I have is I haven't got a spare bottom end that I can have a play about with to fabricate something on the bench, anyone got a spare bottom end going cheap?
     
  2. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    The last car that I was involved with for mapping, used a hall trigger like the one below.

    036103171B.jpg

    This PTO seal/trigger ring is a 60-2 and was used on a KR motor, as the crank pulse to an emerald ECU.
     
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  3. Jon Olds Forum Junkie

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    I guess the size of the market is the reason. I built a couple of kits a few years ago, but the manhours you put in doesn't justify what people will pay.
    There was a toothed wheel out there I believe that had the same 4 bolt pattern as the camdrive sprocket, so it was a simple job to space this off.
    I should have bought one to play with when I saw it.
    Jon
     
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  4. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    There are a couple of kits available from Europe, but I can't remember who makes them. Pretty sure it's one of the drag guys. They aren't cheap though.

    This is mine:
    P1080615_zps043e6311.jpg

    10 years old, still going strong.
     
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  5. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Thanks fellas

    What is the part number for that Eddie?

    If I had a spare bottom end I'd have a play with getting a bracket made but as the engine is in the car I find it's a bit awkward
     
  6. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Eddie how does that ring fit on the crank to hold it in position?

    Thanks for the pic Jon

    What diameter is standard pulley please?
     
  7. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I've seen these flanges floated about for a while now but all the projects that have them never seem to be finished so was never sure if they would actually work! Good to see one which is up and running :thumbup:

    036103171B as it says on the flange pictured is fitted to many VAG rage engines, from around 06 onwards. looking at the MK5 golf looks to be later version on the BCA/BUD code, 85+VAT but that doesn't include the crank sensor. Early code is 030103171S which looks similar except its made of plastic

    045906433A/036906433A/036906433E for BCA and eary BUD crank sensor, 53+VAT. 032906433/03C906433A/03C906433E for late BUD same price 53+VAT. couldn't tell you the difference between them, but I assume the firmament differs slightly for the early plastic and late metal crank seals

    Quick google image search on this and a MK2 flange part number suggests this one is a straight swap for mk1/2/3 type seal. Some of the polo type ones previously suggested needed a hole drilled and tapped as one of the flange holes didnt line up.

    its just an interference fit on the crank, so you got to take care when fitting it with oem management to get it in the right spot. not so much bother with aftermarket as you can just adjust the angle in the software to suit. though still you want to get it in the right spot ideally. Elsawin suggests tool T10134 which holds the crank, flange and trigger wheel together in the correct alignment while its press fitted, not sure if it would be suitable for an earlier engine crankshaft though.
     
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  8. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Thanks I zoomed in on the label and not the cover itself!!

    I'll have to pull the gearbox out that's my only concern and that will end up costing me more time as I'll get involved and end up painting the bay!!
     
  9. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah in your situation finding a crank pulley mounted setup probably the easiest way, can always look into the flange stuff later on if you wanted
     
  10. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I will have to find out which exact one was used. One bolts straight up and the other needs some mods for bolt holes.
    It comes complete with the pick up. You need to carry out some small tweaks to the bell housing plate to get the wires to clear.
    I do not like welding trigger wheels to dampers and this was the work around for an old engine.
     
  11. mickey marrows Forum Member

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    I've got the oil seal (60-2) wheel on my megasquirted G60, works a treat!

    I had to drill and tap a hole in my block to fit mine (030 103 171L), there is a version that doesn't require that but they're almost impossible to find (I think the one in the photo is a 036 103 171B), there's also a plastic version 030 103 171J.

    I use a hall sensor 030 906 433Q, but there's also a VR sensor version..

    And they're not all 60-2 wheels, there are some diesel ones out there with a different pattern.

    I modified the tin cover, but also ground a small clearance on the block meaning I can remove the sensor in situ!
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
  12. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    I know of a few cars running these.
    Be careful which one you get. There's a later diesel one that has two diametrically opposed gaps, so it's a 60-2-2 pattern. I had to update our code to cater for that, as one of our dealers was building a drag car based on a diesel block. It's making somewhere around 850bhp now, and revs to close on 9000RPM, so they do work well.

    Also, make sure the ECU you're using can use a Hall Effect signal.
     
  13. mr.brown

    mr.brown Paid Member Paid Member

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    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
  14. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Can anyone tell me the diameter of the KR bottom pulley please
     
  15. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Someone must have the details please, my car is in my other workshop and can't measure mine till the weekend
     
  16. mr.brown

    mr.brown Paid Member Paid Member

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  17. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    My concern with the ones that go behind the flywheel is the fact they are just an interference fit. The lack of a positive method of securing the trigger wheel tot eh crank concerns me.
     
  18. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    I would rather not advise on parts that I have not fitted to projects until I do know work, given this does involve moving the gearbox.

    The part numbers we used is as per Micky Marrows. 030 103 171L and is available ECP. This is a 60-2 pick up and worked well on the KR car that was mapped, also with a turbo.
    The crank sensor is 030 906 433Q and was picked up on ebay sold under the FEBI label.

    Both parts from a 9N Polo small block so 1.2 or 1.4. They do fit other engines also.

    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps.
     
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  19. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    They are no problem what so ever.
    The OEM will run durability tests beyond what you can subject a vehicle to, even in a track application. I have mapped 3 aftermarket application with this sort of pick up with no complaints.
     

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