Yeah, but on the limit it seems. It isn't happy with bigger cams...so that's a hurdle. It'll supply a tad more fuel still though - still on standard injectors - although, I'd imagine not much more. But, still on full Digifant 3.2 with all standard sensors, and a cat.
I think the emmisions & drivability are both very valid points The big plus with my old ITB'd 9A mk2 with Schrick 268/276 over a similar K-Jet car was the silky smooth idle & power delivery.. It never made fantastic power thanks to stock compression (193BHP on dyno dynamics) but the way it drove from idle to the 7800 limit & the throttle response was epic! Id give away the 7BHP less than 200 for the power delivery any day. I have to agree with the ITR comments too. Mine handled subliminally & would run rings around a mk2. A tweaked ABF/9A mk2 makes for a more interesting comparison though!
F2Stu? He's well over 200 in his Cordoba. On ITBs though...and a lovely set up it is too! I think so.
I can get mine to make 200+ buy re-fitting the 268 ex cam...but normally I give up 4-6 BHP top end, for 15+ lb-ft midrange and the ability to idle and pull well throughout the revs - as mine is a road going, full interior, heavy Mk3 with a 18st+ driver! It comes 'on cam' noticably at 4000 RPM, and passes the emissions test with easy...so I'll happily dip below the magic 200 until the ITBs go on.
If std ABF cams can make 175, then with a slightly longer duration inlet cam and a head skim to get back the dynamic compression that is really about it. I reckon if you start mucking around with longer duration exhaust cams then exhaust reversion may become a factor which is probably a fickle game to play with regard to power versus effort. All the four branch manifolds have pretty much the same length primaries, so it is a bit of an ask for them to suit std cams and cater right through to 300deg jobbies! 421 manifold is probably the way to go, and make use of the ABF's long stroke and torquey engine characteristics. Power is not everything. Who was it that said it is the space under the line that matters! As the op has not started a "How to optimise your transmission" thread yet, it is pointless going much further in engine tuning as far more performance could be gained in the trans dept.
For the money we spend on our VWs they can in a big way as well. Do not underestimate Jap tin can crap, e.g EG civic w/ K20A (1) JDM motor and sorted suspension, you will have no chance in your best mk2 ABF assuming drivers are at an equal level and this is the same track. JDM DC2 Intergra with the 195bhp B18C engine in a scrap with a KR MK2 16v... you got no chance. A bit different if the MK2 has a mildly tuned ABF, sorted suspension and a 4.25 gearbox. Again drivers and conditions factor heavily. Euro EP Civic R vs Mildly tuned MK2 ABF 16v, MK2 ABF FTW. They is a difference between japanese domestic market vehicles and those we get here in europe especially with Type R Honda varients bear this in mind. Also driver level/bravery and conditions all play a big part.
It is the ramp to full load from what ever base condtion is what makes a "good feeling" car, of course helped by good gearbox ratios and grip. If 150lbft is in dyno dynamics money and is held for a 2500rpm range then this will feel very potent in a MK2. Even better in a lighter shell.
There's a confusion here because i was not talking about DC models but the before ones,95-99?? And Toyo we were talking about stock integras..An EG civic with a k20 motor is a beast ;p Cyprus is a european country also mate,what do you mean? All conditions play a big part-i agree
On who's rollers though? We are seeing some old ballpark tuning figures being put into question by these Dyno Dynamics rollers.
Yea thats the one. But looked back and I think he was on bodies too but on a standard bottom end. http://clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212972&page=5 I have a mk2 abf & driver to hand with suicidal tendancies. I'm sure he won't give up until he passes said Integra or takes it out trying. Gurds
civics do have double wishbone suspension on the back, and a much stiffer shell, so theoretically superior to a floppy old mk2 if you really wanted to go fast you'd start with something else
I couldn't agree more G, but the OP has asked for the 200 numbers and, based on a heap of data we have over the years, computer IMO says no.
knew this topic would cause a stir! thanks far all the info guys! didnt turn the pc on for a couble of days and we are at page 6!!! already got some parts for the car of a friend but havent fitted them yet...got the folowing: bmw m3 e30 throtles on costum inlet with cosworth 803 injectors autronic ecu polished ported gas flowed kr head fitted with 1mm oversize valves/double valve springs/titanium retainers(ferea) je +50 high comp pistons carillo rods(h beam) arp head studs fitanza flywheel kent fast road cams(dont know duration) ap patle clutch 4 branch costum build 2y box(1st/2nd/3rd of 8v-4th 16v 5th 6th of mk4 tdi/quife lsd) everything was on a hil climp car but the car wend of a clif last weekend and was totaled so i got everything very cheap(trated them for a set of cossie frond fenders do u thing its a good move to fit them on my car? the engine was on an mk3(striped-caged) and was very very fast! sounded awsome too!
Well, around 200bhp should be possible with those sort of parts if put together correctly. Regardless of what dyno you use!
