My Mars Red Mk1 - Thread REBOOT- P82

Nein. Just a clue up team and some 'pastoral' intelligence lol.
No member on the team give up that easily

 

It is painful that after all that work it still kicks you in the stones, some effort from everybody involved though.

I look forward to seeing it come out stronger than ever next year!

 

Sorry to see all the problems you have had.

Is the crankshaft bolt a stretch bolt on the ABF? On my old G60 I replaced the pulley and fitted a non stretch bolt and washer from a DX engine. This was a common mod as several people had had the G60 bolt fail allowing the pulley to move and shear the key.

From Dubforce:

The bolt is part number N040 106 4 which is a M14-1.5 x 40mm long

The washer is part number 068 105 093A

 

I was wondering if the odd shape of the crank nose was down to movement of the pulley, or the other way around. Stretching of the bolt could be part of it.

Any idea of the history of the engine - if Taks ever drove it, that might explain a lot

 

if it's the part number for the very thin washer with diamond dust on it is a huge mod, and factory install on so many other modern VW crank pullies

May the force be strong..

 

Thanks for that solution Steve. I've already bought the ABF bolt and sprocket but could easily buy another instead. Crispy, is that thin washer the one Steve has listed?

Mike, easy use on this engine but it did have power issues even back then.

Gurds

 

Found them on the Rosten Performance website however they only list them for 06A type engines and not the older type. For now I'm going to check the end of the crank for fretting, deforming etc.

Gurds

 

O6A is a defo & ordable though the dealers, don't have ETKA on this machine but sure that the same sort was available on the older blocks or remember something is doable - Yes it is .5 of a mm or so

 

Steve,
The bolt N 90367001 M14x1.5x39, is like a head bolt and is "renewable".
There should not be the requirement to fit the thrust washer, as explained in the reasons for this concern further on.
This bolt was torqued by Gurds in the engine swap, as per VW suggestions/guildlines and the CKS pickup was set to have the correct gap with the trigger/damper combo.

On the morning when we pulled into the industrial carpark, I did check it and it was still tight as Gurds had said, however we believe the crank cog was not clamped tight between the crank nose and this bolt, as there was very small movement when hit axially. So I then attempted to remove the bolt and it was very hard to come loose after a 1/2 turn. Took about 40mins to get it off w/o stripping the threads and it was very dry.
Once off, the bolt was dipped in oil and we ran it up w/o the cog. It was observed it could go quite far into the crank nose threads and certainly further than before.

I did not observe the impression in the nose of the crank as I later arrowed in the picture, so the wobble would have remained and the cog would have already beaten into an oval by our 7500rpm sweeps some hours before, so the trigger/damper would not run concentric.

The only improvement to the base engine would have come when we set up the cam to crank phasing, which, in hindsight, would have been incorrect during mapping.

Rob T did suggest potential crank damage and we are hoping with the crank cog softer than the crankshaft, it should be a case of clean up the nose from the impression, refit with new cog and bolt, torque up to 90Nm and the 90 deg/1/4 turn, check that it all runs true, test and tune calibration for maximum performance, capture data.
We will mic things before proceeding though.

 

Hope you get it sorted without a new crank or total stripdown.

 

Good to meet you at Curby Gurds, meant to have a good chat and look over your car but as always didn't manage to do half of what I meant to do and ended up playing racing cars lol

Real shame about your woes especially after all the work, I know all about exploding 2nd gears

Hopefully this issue can be fixed relatively simply, unfortunately I don't have any advice as I've not had an issue like this other than the obvious point to use a decent torque wrench!

 

I have found my picture of the 06A washer (anti slip diamond ring !!) as above, Have had a good look around and on the mk4- pages shows in the diagram the same type of washer for the 038/028 but part unknown as RJ has confirmed



I'm sure toyotec has seen them before, rather than being a load washer it feels more like a very fine sand paper with the diamond (possibly synthetic) dust to provent that micro movement- orginally I'd first seen this on a 1.6FSI which had issues with chain slipping/movment, as a simlar shims came with the repair kit (03C 105 159F) for ref the two dimond coated discs measure 35x19x0.13 & 35x23x0.13

hope that helps

 

That part in the picture is also fitted to the S4/RS4, 2.4 V6 and 3.0 V6.
It measures 34x18x0.1.
The crank nose on the ABF has an OD of 31mm so would struggle to see how that would work w/o modification.

 

Whilst bloody annoying Gurds has this problem, surely talk of special washers and things is unnecessary ? There are loads of ABF`s being tracked, some to higher revs than Mine or Gurd`s and they use the stock bolt with no issues ?

If the nose is marked, then yeah, it may help, but all things being equal, I`d have thought a new bolt would suffice.

 

double post.

 

This might (or might not) be useful..........

Early Mazda MX5's had a 4 slot crank pulley with a keyway. This fretted so later cars had an 8 slot pulley with improved keyway.

This video shows how a very well repected US MX5 specialist gets over the issue with reliable long term results - view it from about 10mins 50 seconds

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMhKGb_Duzs