Sorry Boss lol Air dam is shattered now in multiple places. it really is very dead. I'm going to make a new one, but I plan to incorporate 2 additional brake cooling ducts into the air dam, theory being that as an area of high pressure they will feed the brakes very well. Until I've got the inlet scoops and ducting to make those, I'm leaving the dead one one there. I might find some black duct tape just for you lot though lol
Oh bugger, I best get on and do it quickly then, or everything will think I've just copied you again lol
I certainly wouldn't have guessed 2 years ago that I'd be bolting bits of plywood and plastic to my track car because a man in Yorkshire said it was good!
So, having struggled with ABS issues for a while, and an ABS light that randomly came and went, and triggered oddly at low speeds, I was pointed in the direction of this thread by Eddie: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...olf-3-Teves-ABS-system&highlight=teves+20+abs For a mk3 I know, but with my A3 being such an early one, it's largely mk3 based underneath it all, with the ECU and ABS systems being more closely related to a mk3 VR6 than the later stuff. I fitted the new abs control module this evening. What a horrible job! The 4 screws which hold the module to the pump are underneath: I ended up unbolting the pump itself and gently bending the hoses so I could access the model bolts underneath: And it separated like this: Refitting is the reverse of removal as they famously say! Job done. Abs working again. Good result! thanks very much to Eddie for diagnosing my issue
Thanks lol it never kicks in anyway in the dry, and in the wet, it's a fairly handy indicator that you're probably trying a little too hard when you feel the pedal kick back at you! I'd like to remove it at some point so I can run a rear bias valve and start experiementing, but I'll look into that for winter. I've not seen much about ABS removal on mk4 based cars. My biggest concern would be cancelling out all the warning stuff on the dash. I have NO idea if this is possible on my car / ecu at all. perhaps Eddie would know? I can't stand warning lights or beeps, they drive me insane! i still have an issue with a rear brake light warning that randomly flashes. the brake lights work just fine, but the warning comes and goes totally at random. argh.
I haven't a clue if this would be the same on yours as it is on mine but I found that the ECU & ABS are completely separate. I mean when I had the DTA fitted my VAG Com would still talk to the ABS, when I had the ABS removed to fit a bias kit & brake lines inside I had no warning signs because the ABS module had gone completely of course. And something I never noticed until fitting my Dash 2 was that my brake warning light never works now when you turn the ignition on, your ABS module and pump looks like the one I had on my Ibiza so may be the same?
Nice. Satisfying when thing just work isn't it? This is something I need to fix on my Corrado too at some point. Gurds
Cheers Dave. I'll have to do some digging. Did you find that removing the ABS was a good move? I'm hugely happy with the brakes as they are, and due to running slicks with insane grip I never really have the ABS kick in at all in the dry anyway, but I do feel I'm at a point where I could start experiementing with brake bias. I'd actually like to wind a bit more to the rears to get them working a tad more. it's front end bias at the moment. In terms of warning lights and things, my car is slightly more tech than an ibiza, as I have the full DIS info display in the clocks, but it's still much less advanced than the later ME7 stuff, so I'm not sure where I stand. I know if I unplug my ABS ECU totally, or pull the fuse on top of the battery, I get all manner of lights to say it's deactivated and a big flashing (!) in the middle of the screen. I don't think I could ever live with that, so would HAVE to find a way to code it out. Same goes for that damn brake light warning I can't cancel! Sure is! Access wasn't the easiest on mine, as the module sits just above the chassis rail so there wasn't room for a socket on the two outboard bolt heads, hence having to remove the bracket and 'massage' the lines to gain access. Very enjoyable turning the key to no warning lights though
I'm glad I removed mine but I had the problem that there was too much pressure going to the rear and under hard braking the rear would lock. Plus my ABS would never work apart from two times and it wasn't a pleasant moment when it did kick in! It's better now because depending on the track conditions wet/dry/warm/cold I can easily alter the bias. Even started altering the leveller for different parts of the track. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is it worth the gain of being able to adjust the balance versus losing the safety net of ABS? While you don't need it in the dry, how much confidence will you lose in the wet? Personally I'd keep it.
Personally I've found it's given me a bit more confidence in the wet. Maybe because my ABS didn't really work but then two times it did and almost caused me to crash plus the rear would always look up under heavy braking. So all depends on how your car is behaving, if it's working then great and gives you a warning of trying too hard in the wet then leave it. But you know you're trying too hard when you start to under steer anyway lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What do the professionals do ? have they banned it in f1 as was an advantage and caused ultra late braking and any minor problems become big issues Does DTM , TOURING cars still allow ABS? At the end of the day it's your track car not a race car that your chasing every 10th of a second. You do what you feel is right for you lol
