The only problem I found with the compbrake rose joints is that because of the threaded barrel type fixing they end up hard against the tie rod so I can't get enough positive toe to get neutral toe (if that makes sense!!) The tie rods are in effect too long once the rose joint has been fitted and the aurora type look like they are similar to the original ball joints in terms of fixing and would eliminate this issue. This is on a mk1 though so may be different with other models.
I had the same thing very early into the set up problems, I ended up cutting down the track rods slightly, extra strong loctite and butting them up against the end of the track - locking it up I'd best give some of my own usful specs: ride hight hub-wheel arch 295-300mm camber about the 1'30mins (factory 40 mins) bit of caster toe in 10-20 mins
That was my thought to chop the tie rods down. Tried adjusting them at the rack end but this then limited amount of lock I could apply and turning circle became huge! Just hope there is enough thread left to keep it all secure. Guess that is why you used the loctite.
steved : is the bell of the rotor deeper than mk2 280's? and that is what I have. Looking at the picture the ball joint sat in the bell part - spacer on disc not realy an option! Woza - exactly.. I used the stong stuff as per loctite FAQ, and tight against the track rod just nip off what you need - not too much
I could space the disc out but then would have to machine the mounting bracket the same, Pain in the ar55 really. My mext event is in a weeks time so no time for extra work.
I have seen little metal guards on some cars that sit on the bottom balljoint rubber to shield them from the discs heat. Cannot remember which cars it was though.
would some sort of 5mm spacer behind the disc or and a couple of washers in between the caliper and hub not work to push them out just a bit.
SteveD, what front brake setup are you running? I've got a seat ibiza cupra r 305mm front brembo setup going on my rallye. I think i may have the same problem as you with the offset of the disc. Thanks Patrick
I'm running 310mm willwood, It looks as if i will have to space the disc, alter the caliper mounting then try to make the front wings wider. hmm maybe a job for winter.
I've got another question about these compbrake track rod ends. I ordered them along with the adjustable top mounts which fitted after i'd removed all the overspray underseal. The problem i have is the rose joints are 1/2" or 12.7mm. The hub housing is odviously tapered from 13.8mm down to 11.8. If i drill it out for the 1/2" bolt it will only be a good fit for less than half the depth of the fitting. Anybody else noticed this or have they sent me the wrong ones? Thanks Patrick
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....754889&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_768wt_1139 you'd need to ask him what bore they are but they might work.
Yeah i suppose i could sleeve it. But its supposed to be a kit that you just drill out. I was on my way out to get a 14mm blacksmith drill when i double checked. Its 14mm for the rack but a 1/2" for the hub. Just seems wrong.
Any more dimensions? Thread size of the original joint, thickness of the hub. Got an very good idea to try out.
These won't work as they still have the taper in for the standard rod ends. I questioned compbrake about the same issue and they said once tighten there would be no movement etc... Still, I would feel better with a properly sized sleeve to make everything nice and tight.
I just drilled out the taper just enough for the bolt to fit. Tightened them up very tight and not had any issues. And this is with the car riding curbs on race tracks and pot holes on the road. Gurds
Thanks for the responses. Not had anything back from compbrake. Had an idea. I've cut the tapered part off the old track rod ends and i'm going to drill them too just to make sure. I'll let you know how i get on tomorrow.