Rear beam "drop plates" + beam relocators

I'm thinking gussets would need to be welded, on beam and plate, since the outer wheel will bend the plate away from the beam if just attached to one side?

Re: triangulation - see here

 

I was under the impression that it was pretty much like the front suspension, full IRS. A triangulated beam would still be a beam/trailing arm thing with tyre angle following the shell angle

 

ah i missed your point prof, yes a wish bone setup should give better contact with lateral loads applied.

 

my thoughts on triangulation, could you effectivley triangle to the back of the drop plate?, maybe not with this setup but a developed setup?

 

To be 100% effective:

The triangulation point, close to the stub mounting face, must be directly below the centre line of the beam's rear tubes.

Not under the mounting point of the shockers!

DOH! Do I have to draw a diagram?

 

Like it.

An issue with triangulation and drop plates may be the triangulation in the usual place gets close to the inside of the wheel (would need to check). Raising it higher could tangle with the inner arches

 

SCCH has some interesting products..

 

It does not matter whether you have drop plates or not.

To be 100% effective:

The connecting point, of a triangulation system, at the stub end, has to be directly on the vertical centre line, of the circular tube, where the stub axle mounting bracket is welded.

 

apart from lowering are there any other advantages touted for these plates?

 

To work 100% effectively, the turrets, circled in black, should be where the white arrows indicate!

 

with a much smaller turret you could get it in there, the rods would need to be longer and a clever method of mounting a turret and triangle so it wouldn't catch the inside of the wheels

 

The strut/ties, outlined in yellow, should be circular and hollow, for maximum strength/weight!

 

i was surprised to see hex rod, maybe its a fancy alloy or something

 

lowering the CoG slightly?

 

What will happen with these plates fitted, is:

The loaded, outer wheel, will tend towards generating more negative camber, during cornering.

This, because the axial load into the stub, is above the centroid of the tube, forming the trailing arms, of the rear beam.

So now, the vertical load and the axial load are both working together to rotate the tube.

 

Yea, if you use them carefully, you can maintain full wheel base (or longer if you offset the new bolt holes) while being lowered. Without the plates, being low, even moderately like my mk1, makes the wheel base shorter

Daved, your technical illustrations are second to none! Art even!

Gurds

 

Crikey Gurds, you must be psychic!

The sketch of this is still in my head!!!!!!

 

I think those turrets aren't welded, just put there for taking the pic.
on the ties, hex is cheaper and easier to adjust

fabrication with hex: cut to length, drill each end, thread, done
fabrication with round tube: machine 2 ends with threads and a hex in order to adjust, cut tube to length, weld the machined caps, done

EDIT: I would (and will) also do the center bracket in one piece

 

Agree