Rear beam "drop plates" + beam relocators

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by A.N. Other, Oct 6, 2010.

  1. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

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    Someone's been bending 10mm plates on Ed38 I see.

    Meanwhile another product:

    i phone 005 1280x768.jpg i phone 007 1280x768.jpg
     
  2. Brian.G

    Brian.G Forum Member

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    Good god, its a boat anchor for a golf!
     
  3. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    thats the sort of thing i was talking over earlier in the thread
     
  4. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    The steel plates are ok for show but not really a performance up grade. I've got some being fabricated at present in 25mm thick aluminuim. The bolts that attach them to the original axle mounting points are counter bored so the bolt heads sit below the finished face giving you a range of positions to mount the stub axels. I've specified two positions in mine 25mm drop and 50mm drop. The stub axel mounting bolt holes with be threaded in to the 25mm thick alloy. Ideally I would have adjustment for camber but would need to introduce a few rose joints and decided to keep it simple and simply use shims as I do now. Hopefully I will be able to shim via the bottom bolts to avoid having to remove the drum very time :).

    In addition the bottom of the alloy plates extend down below the axel mount and are taped on the underside to provide a pick up point to take the rose jointed braces that triangulate the axle (most racers seem to run these). If required these could probably provide a mount position for a rear caliper mount. I don't really use back brakes so still have the drums on there so not relevant for me. This should balance the stresses from the axle at the top of the plate and transfer them to the triangulation rods at the bottom taking stress of the center mounting bolts.

    The reason I am doing it is aside form the geomerty issues, is that with 15" wheels and the car as low as it will go the beam is touching the chassis rails and a I want it 50mm lower. The reaon for the two mounting points is if I go too low or want to change the nose angle of the car it gives me some adjustment. The rear coilovers are check stopped very low so I have minimal adjustment via the spring plates. I run heavy springs so suspension movemet in minimal so being able to adjust the stub position is usefull.

    Also it wide tracks the back end to match the Bergcup arches.

    After a lot of thinking and sketching etc that's what I came up with, at the front I'm cutting the chassis rails out and going rose joints/tubular wishbones with some custom roll bar mounts and a blade roll bar. Will post some pics when fitted.
     
  5. Whittle Forum Member

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    those look like a good way to do it.

    im thinking about making some, similar to those but ill probably weld them to the beam
     
  6. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    the ones above would work if the web was welded to the beam
     
  7. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just remembered this while I was nosing about. Have added some pics like I said I would [:$]
    2011rearbeamdetail.jpg 2011rearbeam.jpg
     
  8. jake_luckin New Member

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    any idea what grade of aluminium you used to make your plates tony?? thinking of building something similar into my own car!
     
  9. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi there, not sure to be honest. I get Trident Engineering to make them for me. Have a set here at the moment for a beam I need to get finished as I promised it a while ago! I'll ask them next time I talk to them.
     

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