Mk2 project - GTI Anniversary Helios Blue

Having had a number of Golfs over the years including 2 x MK1 (GTI), 3 MK2s (GTI), 1 MK3 (GTI Colour Concept), 2 x MK4 (GTI), MK6 (GTTDI), 2 x MK7 (GTD & R) I have bought another one, off eBay and local to me so I got to have a good look before buying. Non running although I did hear it turn over, poor paint and been off the road since 2010.

Already up on Facebook marketplace by some scammer who has taken the pictures and description from the eBay ad.

Got it home and the priority is to get it running and take it for MOT to see what it needs.

New battery (it did not have one), starter motor as the old one was described as lazy, oil, filter, plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. It has a 9A engine on twin Dellorto 45s so the in-tank pump is still there, with an additional Facet electric pump where the original swirl pot and pump was and a regulator in the engine bay, in tank pump removed and tested in a jug of petrol, resistance on the sender unit changes when the float arm moves so fuel gauge should work (although its stuck on half tank), tank looked clean and was empty. New seals, filter and diaphragm in the regulator. Fresh fuel pulled through, it fires up with persuasion ok but will not run properly idle, rev etc. Thanks to the recommendation for Northampton Motorsport who might have setup the carbs, but they are busy until June so someone is coming next week to take a look.

Put new pads and discs on the front, pistons in the calipers move ok, it has braided lines and managed after much soaking to get the bleed nipples loose without breaking them, rear pads, discs and calipers look good and handbrake holds the car well, new Motul RBF660 fluid and pedal feels ok. Servo has been disconnected as part of installing carbs so will see what stopping is like.

Springs look ok although a mixture front/rear and shocks are not original/VW, but are not leaking and bearings, bushes and mounts feel ok.

PAS fluid flushed and changed as it was thick and black, sagging headlining glued with spray glue for now and fixed non working horn – all down to the brass contact from the clock spring to the back of the wheel. Lubricated the wiper linkage so they work ok and gear linkage and gearbox feels fine.

Started to give it a polish and paint is ok, but not brilliant, some rust around wiper bung on near side and front or off side wheel arch that need sorting, but overall looks fairly solid. I see some have used MCC in Banbury for rust/paintwork so plan to get it over to them. Have ordered some second hand door strips as these are wrong/missing as well as the badges. Interior needs to good clean and drivers seat repairing fabric and well as it won’t move back/forward. May be cheaper to replace the seats if I can get some of the right ones.

Will get rid of the ATS cup wheels (let me know if anyone is after a set) and fit some BBS RAs and proper double headlight grill. Need to change the coolant and gearbox oil, fit new wiper blades as well.

Will post some pictures when I work out how to and keep the updates coming. Hopefully next it say it has a MOT.

 

Still need more posts Paul. Ten to be able to post pictures. 2 more to go…….

 

So some progress, have now polished the whole car looks ok considering what the paint was like have done 3 stages and a wax using Mirka products Polarshine 10, 5 and Nanowax before this gave it a clay bar, iron remover and glue and tar remover.

Took the seats out and hoovered the carpet not sure what to do with the seats will try to get some reasonable matching front ones as I can’t see retiming them being cost effective.

Following the recommendation on here spoke to Northampton Motorsport about a tune and carb setup, but they are booked until June which in one was proves their credibility but does not help me, but managed to get a mobile car tuner out to take a look some positives there was an air leak from the pipe that would go to the brake servo so blanked that off, the coil was wired wrong way round so corrected that, carbs setup the best they can but comment was they are possibly worm, but main problem is timing is ok static but not advancing so I need to look at that as it’s still controlled by the ECU from the PB engine even though it’s now a 9A engine with carbs, have got a timing light to work through that, but biggest problem is it’s not running properly on cylinders 1&2 little difference if HT leads unplugged thought is it’s valves as there is spark and fuel so may have to take head off to investigate, but timing is first thing to sort. The result of poor running is unburnt fuel so exhaust gases as high and need sorting before MOT.

Any tips on the timing appreciated, I am sure there is a head removal thread but looks straightforward and will line up timing before doing anything.

 

Ok thanks will look for a KR loom and ECU and get that fitted - is there a guide to doing this anywhere, assume its not plug and play and there is some wire splicing to do?

 

Many thanks, I think I can manage that, will get on the lookout the the loom and ECU now and will take a look and what is there at the moment.

 

So took the car for a MOT today to get an idea of what is wrong and prioritise getting it sorted. Apart from the running issues already discussed the fails where around the brake servo not being connected (I did not know this was a MOT requirement it just means the brakes need a lot of pressure). I have the pipes and there is a connection on the inlet manifold so I will look to get that connected up although it looks tricky to get the connection on the servo... Couple of front track rod ends which should be easy and OS outer CV boot which I have read the guide for so will get ordered and the side indicator decided not to work although it did when I checked all the lights so hopefully simple.

Will remove one of the track rod ends to make sure I get the right ones or are Euro Car Parts generally ok for that sort of thing?

There were also advisories or all 4 wheel bearings, play in steering rack inner joints, some corroded brake pipes, hangar missing from the exhaust and an oil leak - all things I can do more in my own time.

Ideally want to get it to MCC to get them to look at the welding jobs and a bit of paint, get the wheels and grill changed and interior tidy so I can use the car over the summer.

 

That’s not bad is it really
That servo connection will be a pain and is probably why it isn’t connected.
If doing the track rod ends then may be worth just buying new arms if the inner joints are worn. I think they come with the inner joint attached. Yes they do https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19614501...-5R887dR_G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
BandB on eBay are generally very good at getting parts posted quickly.
We have just replaced both our CV boots. It is very much easier to take the drive shaft off and do them on the bench.
Wheel bearings are easy peasy.

 

Cheers Phil - will have a look today and get some bits ordered. The car last last MOT'd in 2010 so overall not bad and no mention of rust/structural which is the worry with a car of that age.

Will keep this updated.

 

A few bits done to get it through the MOT - 2 new track rod ends. New driveshaft outer CV boot, as recommended off the car much easier - if I do more will get some of the proper pliers for the boot clamps. The 6 driveshaft flange bolts did not look like they go very far into the gearbox flange - assume this is normal, gave the shaft a coat of paint. Also managed to use the pipes that came with the car to connect the inlet manifold to the servo luckily the pipe out the servo was there and cut off so I could connect to it, although with the manifold it only gets vacuum from 1 cylinder assume this will not matter? Side repeater sorted, just the running issues to get through the emissions and we could be there.

 

Those bolts don’t look long enough do they? Do they go all the way through the flange?

 

Was difficiult to see on the gearbox end - but I will check, they torqued to 45Nm ok, certainly something to keep an eye on.