1.6 CL auto,carb info needed

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by neil kaye, Mar 1, 2010.

  1. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    can anyone point me to a link or better still a good scematic or blown up diagram of this carb so i can identify the parts and find out what they do
    it says 2E on it so not sure if its a 2E2 or 2E3
    its running a bit pants at the mo,trying to over run when ign off and black smoke coming out when running with high idle

    could be linked with this other thread ive put up
    http://www.clubgti.com/FORUM/showthread.php?t=210102
    cheers
     
  2. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    That'll be a 2e2 Neil, I'm pretty sure. With typical waxstat and/or coolant flow troubles, at a guess from the symptoms described.
     
  3. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    i have very limited knowlage pete,thanks for the link ill have a good read of that
    when it stars the plunger that rests on the throttle mech pulls back and there is a gap there but if you push the throttle mech back a bit towards the plunger it slows the over idling tw4t back to a nice idle
    i know they need to be a little high as when you put the car in drive the idle drops a lot,but this one seems way too high,as if the throttle is sticking but the cable is fine,has about 1 to 2 mm play in the cable
    anyhow will go read the link cheers for now
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2010
  4. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    That plunger controls the idle for the first few seconds from cold start, and again at full operating temperature, but in between, during warm-up, the idle speed is governed by a mechanism on the other side of the carb, just in front of where the throttle cable attaches.

    The waxstat pushes round the 'warm-up cam' which gets in the way of a stop on the throttle spindle until the cam has rotated far enough clockwise to miss that stop.
    If the waxstat starts off too short and/or can't extend far enough, the idle speed will be higher than ideal during warm-up, and may never have its control properly 'handed over' to the 3/4-point unit at full operating temperature.

    At shutdown, because the throttle may be being held open by this stuff even though it should completely shut, run-on/dieselling is the result.

    Go through RJ's checklist, write down any things that fail test, and then decide whether it's worth a go at fixing up. As John rightly emphasises, good flow of coolant to the autochoke bits is vital, and there's little point in trying to fix anything by buying/acquiring spares if that flow isn't heating the waxstat and choke housing up enough.
     
  5. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    thanks for the pointers,will go through the check list and read that very very long faq [eek]
     
  6. Dennis10

    Dennis10 Forum Member

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    Choke pull down unit always seems to be a problem on these units - I had that replaced before eventually plumping up for a much simpler Weber!
     
  7. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    yes i remember way back in 1988/92 working in a vw garage this was very common,we had a vac gun to test them ,and replacing loads of them ,just too long ago to remember anything more than that
    the webber idea has been talked about with my mate im trying to help on this
     
  8. drunkenalan Paid Member Paid Member

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    neil i have box of 2e2 carb bits if you need any part or want the lot
     
  9. neil kaye Forum Junkie

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    cheers alan i appreciate that mate, ill let you know if i need anything when i take a look at the car :thumbup:
     

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