Thats the 'thermal tee', the hot return fuel heats the incoming fuel within the housing if you know what I mean. Had a similar issue on my old leon, and used a very similar O ring kit. It didn't work and never bothered doing anything else with it.
Yeah, aidan is right McStu, it is knackered, just post the engine to me now. I have a Maxi needing dieseled up. I believe there are similar fuel filters that have hose connections for this return instead of the o ring and plastic bit.
Are there any specs of the standard filter to consider if changing to one with a different return connections? Shouldn`t be much more than 10-12.
Go for one that is only for the feed line, then just straight connect the return. Probably mk2 style will be like that and bolt to the turret in the same place
Not sure off hand but a surf on the bay may have some piccys of a suitable candidate. I found this in my first page. Not and ideal pic but go browse. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-600-Die...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a5f127e9a or this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FUEL-FILTER-R...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c11c91d33 or this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Diesel-Fuel-F...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35a2c9bbd3 None of the above may be any use but it shows there are a large range of filters with different style connections.
Nice one fellas. Looks like the Rover one would be ideal. Almost indentical infact, bar the `thermal tee`... I think I`ll take a trip to Halfords and have a root around all the filters to compare them.
Right, been done to Halfrauds, and sussed out the Rover 600 filter; As you can see they are indeed identical, bar the troublesome tee-piece (Golf on the left) Another bonus is the Rover one is a full 10 cheaper... Duly bought, and swapped; Looks like someone has indeed changed the filter at some point, but they clearly didn`t change the tee. Low and behold...no seal... The last time we`ll see this bugger...to the bin! Another comparison; Had a couple of these hose-joiners knocking about for years because `they`ll be handy one day`...to day was that day. Perfect fit! Tried (not very successfully) to drain the old filter into the new one to prime it. Needn`t have bothered. The engine died after a few seconds, but re-started and run fine after a few goes. Done and dusted in a mere ten minutes. And here`s a shot of the exhaust `set-up`...
Lovin your work McStu. You could probably sell that old plastic thing on ebay to some loser. I saw a second hand one listed in my search for fuel filters.
Well...yes, and no... Went out for a blast last night, and it again took a few goes to start. `No worries`, thought I, `must just be some air still trapped in the filter`. It drove well enough, pulling strong and smooth, until I got it on the motorway. Pulled great all the way to 3000rpm, then it hit a brick wall. Resolutely refused to rev any further. Came off the motorway, and it was sluggish in all gears. Keen enough up to about 2200rpm, but extremely slow thereafter. Would go beyond 3000rpm (all the way to the limit in fact) in the first three gears. Not enough road to get that far in fourth. Stopped for fuel. Had about 1/8 tank in so began to wonder if there might be a pick-up issue. Checked under the bonnet for leaks. All OK. Didn`t fill up due to pumps having gone down, so set off, and everything was OK again. Pulling great, until I wound it up to 3000rpm in 5th on the motorway. Once again, a hard fuel cut. Off the M`way, back to sluggish... Left it till this morning to investigate; As hard as ever to start and still a load of air bubbles in the clear line as it entered the pump, but none as it came out of the filter... How the f*ck did I miss this yesterday?!?! Some bodgy repair to the line. I must have disturbed it yesterday, because the chassis leg was now soaked in diesel. Another trip to Halfrauds, where they didn`t have any clear fuel line, so this`ll have to suffice. The two lines are crimped together, so to save damaging the return line in trying to seperate them, I just chopped the feed line. Retaining these ends, so I can replace with correct clear line. The part number you see here isn`t just for the clear line...typically, that number comes up as the complete set of feed and return lines, ready crimped together, and with the swaged rubber ends...55...balls to that! All done. Started perfectly first time. Took a run to a mate`s and it`s still doing this hard cut at 3000rpm in 5th. Shutting off, and re-starting `cures` it, until the next time it hits 3k. Stumped... And just to try out how my new phone`s video looks, here`s my bouncy tensioner.
Did you not read the unlucky 13th post? http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1978772&postcount=13 By being near the airbox you will have caused the maf to take a wobbler. Looking at the airbox is sometimes enough. Or, one of the boost switching solenoids will have become busted in a modern cars break for no reason stylee. Old cars FTW!
That bodged repair sat right next to the airbox, under the MAF - inlet pipe union, so originally I just looked round the back of the airbox, and saw no fuel spilt on the chassis leg, ect, so assumed all was well. Must have disturbed it doing the filter, since it was p*ssing out today 9as you can see in the last pic)... I was thinking it may be MAF-related, since it`s been unplugged/removed three times recently. It was fine after having done the exhaust/inlet manifold, so must have thrown a wobbler after the filter was done. Boost switching solenoid? N75? This? Just had a sudden realisation...the vac line you can see coming down from it plugs into the airbox. I didn`t re-connect that this afternoon, so that would explain the issue today, but I definately did connect it yesterday (since I dis-connected today...), so perhaps that is to blame afterall. When I was running the short exhaust, I could always clearly hear the wastegate open (sounded like all hell breaking loose! )...it used to open at...3000rpm. I think I`ve just answered it myself now!
The N75 return to air box should only be there to avoid sending it to atmosphere ( for all the tree huggers ) no reliance on major performance just to check the centre pipe coming from the filter goes into the feed for the diesel pump? you got rid of the T peice which is a temp related block valve (below 23'c creates resistance) To create an internal pressure to rotory pump, enriching fueling warms up fuel in filter/ re circs it back to pump You thinking the wastegate is stuck open? got a boost gauge fitted yet? worth checking all the related vacumm pipes looking for a split in any of them, does it run better without the MAF connected - a test on MK4's anyways as the defualt values in the ECU are better than the actual values of a dodgy MAF. mae the car run better or is it actually fine/normal until it looses the power Been Scanned?
Yep. All good, as seen in the pics. Good info, but I`m confident it`ll be fine without it. Correct me if I`m wrong, but it seems more like it isn`t opening. No boost gauge fitted as yet, but I do have one (for the 20v). Where`s the best place to tap it in? I`ve got a vac-line schematic, so I`ll double check that everything is going where it should. Everything was fine after I did the exhaust (and had all the vac-lines disconnected), but worth a double check. I`ll also try it with the MAF unplugged, but I thought a dodgy MAF would give trouble all through the rev range? Need to get my code-reader back off my mate...
Right...I may have sorted it...not counting chickens yet... Starting issue is 100% solved. Happy days. What I thought was the N75 (arrowed in pic above), isn`t. It`s the `pressure convertor` that operates the EGR. Since the vac line for that has already been chopped, then not connecting the other end to airbox was academic. The N75 (for future reference for others) is this one here with the red and blue vac lines; Whilst I was waiting for my mate to bring my code reader round, I dug out the N75 from the box of not-needed 20v bits, and proceeded to snap one of the connectors off...buggering f*ck!... Anyway, code reader arrived and no faults showing...hmmm... When I was rebuilding the inlet manifold/pipework there were two vac lines that I wasn`t sure about where they hooked up. Vacuum`s, vacuum right?...Of course not you knob! This is they in their correct orientation (I had them swapped over) The one on the left is vacuum to operate the N75 valve, and the one on the right is of course, boost pressure measured by the ECU, so the ECU was getting vacuum, and the N75 was getting boost...now that they`ve been swapped, it`s all good. I won`t call it resolved just yet...we`ll see...
Stu, have you done anything with your exhaust yet (or finished fitting those nozzles?), i've been looking into that side exit/exit under the car thing and can't find a reg that says it can't exit under the car. My old mans transit runs along one of chassis rails (ladder frame style) and points straight down just before the rear axle, this is standard from the factory. This would make life much easier for my use (not a golf) not to mention the soot would mean no waxoyling needed in that general area!
I stuck it in for it`s MOT with the set-up as above, and it failed... Apparently, it has to exit from under the car in some fashion, but not necessarily in the factory position. The MOT guy suggested that even a cobbled together side-exit would be fine. Since mine is extremely low a quick side-exit solution wasn`t that simple (even if I`d got back to the MOT garage incident free, one of the three speed-bumps on the way in would have surely ripped it off! ). The MOT guy (VW freak) said the perfect(!) way to do it would be to hole-saw through the rear section of the sill (and strenghten accordingly) so I could retain the ride-height. I didn`t have time in the ten days I had to do that, so sourced a full system from a mate who was breaking a VR-converted 8v GTI (as seen on my other thread). The back of the car is now as black as you like, and I need to give the plate and lights a wipe over every few days, but I think it just adds to the `sleeper` style of the car. And, no, injectors aren`t done yet, but I`ve some days off soon where I`ll give it another go.
Stu, reading this again, what you you reckon was actually causing the 3k rpm power drop off? I has issues with the fuel filter, and am wondering if yours was just that, and residual air bleeding out of the system, or 2 problems masquerading as one.
The 3krpm power drop off was just one problem on it`s own, of my own making... Note these two `vac-lines`; Basically the ECU reads boost pressure from the line that connects to the inlet (right hand one above). The left one is vacuum, and goes to the bottom of the N75 valve. When the ECU senses the determined max. boost pressure it switches the N75 valve letting the vacuum `through` to the wastegate actuator to bleed of the exhaust flow stopping boost production. I had those two lines the wrong way round after having the manifold off to clean it and blank off the EGR valve, so the ECU was never sensing boost. When that happens it`ll run fine, because it `knows` that max. boost won`t be produced until over 3000rpm, so puts a limit on at that point, ie; limp mode. Swapping the lines to their correct orientation sorted that straight away. (Note; The same symptoms, with everything correctly, installed could point to N75 failure.) My other issue was purely down to the split fuel delivery line (clear one), but having missed that on initial inspection the advice as to the other likely culprit was the valve on the filter, hence the filter swap. Of course having subsequently foung the true cause the filter swap was then rendered `unecessary`, but I guess it was a good thing anyway since I had no idea when it was last done, and if the valve is a common problem, I`ve now done away it, so can`t cause problems in the future (and the filter was significantly cheaper!) I`m back to thinking my current problem (and by extension, yours) is again down to air entering the fuel delivery side somewhere. Since everything in the bay is fine, I`m going to have a look underneath to see if anything has been damaged there.
