What parts need replacing when rebuilding any engine? Are there any special bits that will need replacing on a 1272cc Mk1 engine? How much might this all cost for the parts? I need something to do.
Rebuilding the block and head? Replace ll the gaskets and seals you remove is a good idea as they are so cheap. Head: Valve stem seals, Grind valve seats, Clean and degrease/carbon it Umm cant think? - check measurements of all other bits to make sure they arnt worn out. Bottom End: Check sizes of bores etc Oil pump? Degrease all Clean oil strainer New timing belt etc I cant remember all I did to mine tbh, but there isnt that much really, nice easy job and youll learn about the engine!
When i rebuilt mine over the summer i stripped it all down and cleaned it myself, then took it to a freiendly engine re-builder. I got him to do all the necessary measuring of bores, cylinders and bearings etc. as all the tools for the measuring are very specialist unless you have them lying around. Then he did the re-bore and crank grinding, gave it back to me with all the new parts that i needed to re-build it. It all came to 800 quid, but that was with new pistons wich were 400 by them selves!!!! the re-build was pretty easy though, give it a go!
Were there any bits either of you couldn't get hold of when you were re-building? Any other points or notes to offer?
Depends what you want to do really, I built my own because I wanted to learn about engines etc and have learnt so much! Its put me in good sted for future convertions etc or You just want a reliable "new" 1300 engine, in which case volkspares will sell you one with all new worn out parts, reground crank, new main and big end bearings, guides, valves and springs, piston rings etc and its all nice and clean and painted up. On an exchange they will sell you one for 400 or fit it for an extra 100 and that comes with 12month warrenty Horses for courses really mate, that is im sure the cheapest fix for a knackered/tired engine but if you want to learn it yourself and have some time on your hands and dont need the car everyday do it yourself, youll get such satisfaction from it!
Indeed. The engine doesn't actually have a home anymore as it has been taken up by a 16v lump. Looking at a couple/few hundred then really? I wont be doing it all in one go, just something to do when I'm not doing anything else.
The only part that was hard to get hold of was the oil pump. My engine builder couldn't find one specifically for the 6A but the one for the ABF was the same, but a different length drive shaft which was just sw*pped over. It is very good to build it your self cause you learn so much about how it all works, and as andy says, it's so satisfying doing the whole job your self!
might be a small point but replace the oil spray tube over the camshaft, they tend to get blocked with crud and the plastic ends get brittle with age. I've found a few cracked ones in the past, even before I'd got my ham fists on them. they arent that much from VW but costs a lot more in shagged out cam lobes
Will you want a blueprinted 1300 when you're done though? Why not start with a bigger engine and build something you'll want to use? You could get a free KR easy enough and build a big bore 1900 or something like that. Or use a 1600 crank and build a really oversquare 1800?
Where is the best place to look for cheap 16vs greg? Get the entire car are sell trim/panels to make back cost of purchase or just buy the engine?
The only thing is I'm thinking of getting into hillclimbing/sprinting next year possibly. The original 1300 I've got (GF) wont do very well in the road going classes upto 1400cc as it's missing at least 4 valves to be competative against honda civic's and the like. So the only route would be to go into the modified class upto 1400cc, bore the engine out to 1341cc, uprate the rods and pistons, use some bike carbs/injection bodies, lighten and balance the bottom end etc... gradually chucking money at the chassis to develop it over a few seasons. This might be a good oppurtunity to get to know the 1300 block a little better. As you say though Greg, you could spend the same amount on prepping a 1300 as you could a 1600, 1800 or 2000cc engine and have a load more torque but then the base weight of the engine rises, weight distribution and all that... A cheap gradual 1300 8v > 1341+ 16v itb's in a Mk2 Polo (muchos cheapo) or, An unknown figure for a Mk1 Golf with the majority of everything standard still attatched to it and put in either a 1.6/1.8/1.9/2.0 16v engine but maybe start with just the crank lightening and new rods, then later rebuild it with high comp pistons and move up to itb's. The initial cost of buying a Polo would be peanuts compared to any sort of Golf (I dont think you can buy a 1.1/1.3 and fit a larger engine into it as it will be against the regs?). I've not seen many 16v engines under a 100 that often... 725kgs Vs 850kgs (roughly). Now a guestimate for a nicely worked 1300+ is 165bhp, which would equate to 227bhp/tonne in a Polo, a Mk1 Golf with a 185bhp engine say, equals 217bhp/tonne. Of course gear ratio's and powerbands will be more factors to take on board for both of these. I dont know which one I would have more fun with. Remembering it would be for hillclimbs and sprints only. It may or may not materialise but the more I think about it, the more interested I become. I will get to some of the events next year to see what it's all about before plunging into anything like this.
Ah, I meant to say above that you'd be better building a "hot" 1300 rather than a standard, blueprinted one. If it's to meet race regs that's a whole different matter. It could end up being an expensive way of learning if you start spending money on expensive internals and then mess something up, but you could build a really nice engine in stages and learn along the way as you upped the spec. Is there really 125kg difference between a big block mk1 Golf and a small block mk2 Polo in roughly similar chassis spec? Andy, tired KRs for rebuilding are ten a penny if you keep your eye open and have a way of collecting them. I picked up a complete engine off here for nothing early this summer which I've used to take parts from. It depends how much of it you need but certainly if you find one even up to about 200 you could sell the injection kit, manifolds, alternator, distributor, power steering pump and flywheel and make your money back. Edited by: greg s
Those vehicle weights were from carfolio.com so I wouldn't think they were bible figures. Mk1 1.0 Polo is 700kgs on that site, if that is true then there isn't a lot in it apart from the age of the shell. A 1300 can rev higher on standard internals due to less rotational mass, the unit is a lot lighter than 1.8/2.0 16v, less weight transfer... but a lot less torque, although if you have a good set of gear ratio's you'll never be out of the powerband. Would it be fun though? Might get wooped on the more open courses. [:^(]
Should I keep the engine 8v (would keep the costs down considerably) and have it looking a bit like this (9000rpm!): Or try and source a 16v head from a Polo (AFH '96-'00), sort out how you mate them together add in a 'pair' of race spec cams () and so on... which will look a bit like: this The cheaper 8v option I feel might be best considering cost/time/effort/knowledge?
