1600 with bike carbs?

bike carbs will be way more expensive than you think, for no huge improvement

 

i have a alloy manifold made by dubfaf cost a lot and i want 250 pounds for it its a very nice bit of kit . pm me lee

 

I actually made 20 profit bike carbing my car

Would've been 80 up if I'd used the bike pump I bought in the first place!

 

and it's all setup properly, starts on the button and is as reliable as k-jet?

 

the dubfab is a bit dear IMO. I was quoted 300 quid by Altiss engineering the quality speaks for itself.

 

Yup!

 

ok, i'll shut it, now does it make any more power?

 

I have no idea what it had before, but it is considerably quicker, and only about as thirsty as it was with K-Jet!

That's set up by guess work, with a suspect headgasket.

I've since changed the mixture and re-set the timing and it feels better still

Oh and the engine has done 200,000miles too for good measure []

 

Yay carbs!

 

Okay, thanks for the great replies guys. Has anyone fitted them to a counter flow head? Any pics?
I want to do this to my driver!

Ta

 

is there no way of modding the original inlet manifold to allow the fitment of bike carbs?

using the same idea that jolfas guide to the 16v, cutting it up so you can then use silicone hose to join from the inlet manifold to the bike carbs?

 

The non cross flow engines have fruity port spacing to allow for the exhaust, so you couldn't just chop it the same. I had enough issues with the spacing on the above manifold..

Best bet would be to chop it right down to pretty much the flange and have a fabricator type place re-weld ports to it to match the spacing of the carbs. Someone on here did something along those lines, I'll see if I can find the pic.

But believe me if the spacing is wrong you'll have no end of trouble getting the hoses to stay on!!!

The manifold on my car now I bought off Ash/gunit-84/the guy with the jade green 16v on bike carbs at the rolling road day, which was just an extended standard one (as described above) but the spacing was still wrong which is why I have a silicone join lower down towards the head to bring ports 1+4 closer in, as you can see -

here

 

Can't find the one I was looking for but...


...That's what I mean.

Suppose you could get away with doing what I've done and put a load of silicone joins in to create similar shapes, but it wouldn't be very pretty!

 

Sweet man. Thanks for the photo

 

What happens with the vacuum ball thing if you bike carb, do you still need it?

Apparently you don't need it if you go Weber but I've read that keeping it helps to maintain a stable vacuum throughout the system.

 

No, the only thing you need a vacuum for is your brake servo.

 

ok so youre saying the carbs dont need the vacumes conected

 

i mean the bike carbs

 

Bike carbs don't have any vacuums to connect?

 

the yellow circle i dont know for your carbs but i think thats my vac if im wrong correct me