Hey guys, ok, so I just bought myself a S3/TT inlet manifold for my 16v turbo build. I've also got a spare 50mm 16v inlet manifold. I know it is possible (correct me if i go astray here) to cut off the mounting flange of each manifold and weld the 16 flange onto the 20v manifold, whilst keeping the 20v injector mounts (albeit with a bit of dremelling to tidy things up. Haven't got a problem with doing that (or rather getting someone else to do it ) other than it seems a horrible shame to cut up 2 perfectly good (and in the case of the s3 manifold, rather expensive) manifolds. So reading around here I found this: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154718&highlight=adaptor+plate which seemed like a great idea, except for the fact no one ever got one. So, i have both inlet manifolds and i'm pretty handy with a CAD system, so im thinking about maybe seeing if i can design an adaptor plate and get one made. As the engine is still in the car and plumbed up I can't get a good look at the block for any space constraints, other than the water inlet can anyone see any probs with an adaptor hitting or blocking anything? If I can find someone to make one for a reasonable price (I need to ask a few contacts) I might be able to get a few done at the same time, so I'll keep you posted if anyone is interested. Cheers, J
Sounds good I have one of the adaptors for the exhaust manifold but couldn't find the inlet one. Also have a 20v inlet that i was going to use to work out an adaptor but not got round to it. Keep us updated with your progress.
You do not weld the flange from the 16v lower piece to the 20v manifold. You match the runners and then weld after you confirm manifold to bonnet clearance and length to radiator. Using a conplete 20v manifold and attaching via some adaptor will ensure your injectors squirt fuel on the floor on the runners instead oif the back of valve. No good... That whole 20v to 16v manifold system was given a fair amount of thought before implementing.
keep it simple and fit an early 20vt throttle from an AGU, it would only require a small mounting tab to fit a cable bracket to. failing that mk 3 throttle from a 2litre 8valve can be used and i believe the vr too. because these have the throttle position sensor required. the mk2 16valve doesn`t have this and probably will give you problems with engine management. please don`t commit to mass fabrication and over complication of a "bolt on" affair. these really are the best solutions here, don`t forget you need some of the loom with the throttle, that way if the connections are good you can use them as well. plus it`ll will save you a lot of grief and money
