Thanks Quasar, glad to have another knowledgable person on here! As i said, i am doing my injectors, hopefully next week!
Well, after the ne injectors went in i set her up on y gas anylyser! the mixture was at 0.3%, I had only set her to 2% about 3 weeks back, so the old injectors must have been knackered and i was compwnsating for them through the mixture, that's my guess anyway, please correct me if i am wrong! She seems alot smother now, but as i just got her out on the road, the alternator decided to pack up, so i got a recone unit coming tomorrow! Next week will tell if i get better power and fuel comsumption!
Yer getting back to the original post. I've only had my 16v a week and its struggling to start at times. I know its cold at the moment, but its the way it does it that gets me. you turn the key, car starts up, then if you watch the rev counter it goes up to just under 2000 and then drops well below 1000 before stalling. It thenwont start propperly until you give it some serious revs whilst engaging the ignition.
Yup, ours started doing that this morning. As Em had to drive it to college I've adjusted the idle temporarily, but will go through all the checks in the thread and see what I find when she gets in. The cars fine from hot though, so I suspect it may be a wire off the CSV, or the WUR. will disconnect it tonight and see what happens! Jon+Em
Sorry if it's been covered but if there's no feed to the WUR (and no wires are broken), where does it get power from? Is it a constant 12v feed from ignition? I need to test out my WUR resistance and feeds when I get the engine back in, so just looking for relevant info.
If there's no feed to it then it warms up by engine heat alone, which is slower than heating up via the 12v "heater" built into it. Constant 12v when the ignition is on.
I gathered that What I meant was, is there a particular fuse/relay that powers the circuit. Pigbladder hit on something on a PM about my car surging when cold, could be a faulty WUR or no feed to it, I had repaired the wires to it last Summer, but it didn't cure the surging - not bothered to look further into it, but as I'm rebuilding the lump I might as well look at curing this fault.
not sure where they come from...you could always wire it to a ign live to see if cures it...then trace the fault if there is one
Good link. http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm While refitting my WUR earlier, I tested the resistance for the heating element and it was 22.9ohm, the above link states anywhere between 20-26ohm is ok.
quick question is the red/green connector on the side of the head the one for the ecu ? i saw mine was disconnected earlier and it think this is why mine dont start it turns over but just wont start easly now
I think that's for the Thermo time switch which activate the cold start injector! Is it the one below the water outlet near the 3 head sensors?
alternat8 your best bet is clean all 3 sensors with a wire brush and check they all read the same ohms on a multi meter ..check between the terminal and the hex bit make sure all 3 spade terminals are good n tight too
