Aha! I read this post before ordering and after reading again I'm not sure what to do from info there: Do I try the diode between red/black wire and the (two or just one?) black wires? This sounds like easiest option but: What diode should I use and which way round Or do what is suggested by @Toyotec If so, I'm not sure what CIS CST trigger, KL30 and KL50 mean - any help on translating this into simpler terms - e.g. 'put this wire here' etc? terminals on the new motor don't exactly match those in the photo of mk2/mk3 in the thread Thanks!
for option 2 you just slip it under the solenoid stud, simples KL30 is permanent live, 50 cranking live 'KL' is the initials for the german for circuit track or connection or something along those lines I cant remember the exact term off hand. it refers back to wiring diagrams you'll often see them in those plus if you look at many automotive relays you'll see the numbers listed on the little diagram on the side. 30 main live, 50 cranking, 15 ignition live, 31 earth, 86 trigger live, 85 trigger earth, 87 power output etc. I have a big list showing he most common if you're bothered CIS CST = kjet 5th injector = 15a = live when cranking, but wont trigger the starter if you feed power to it 15a mustn't trigger the starter if you feed it power, hence diode needed if you use option 1. the reason is on the 16v kjet system the 2nd black wire you see on that spade comes from the cold throttle enrichment valve which sends 12v down it if you boot the throttle. so if you didn't use a diode, the starter would also fire if you boot throttle when fitting the diode you orientate so power can pass from starter 50 terminal red/black wire -> black wires, but wont allow 12v to pass the other way from cold throttle system to starter
@saladman Interesting. When I ordered mine from them I was asked how many spade connectors were on my starter and how many fixing holes there were to check that they supplied the correct starter. Mine only has one spade connector. I must have been on the phone a full 5mins whilst they confirmed what I required. Sorry to hear you haven't got the direct replacement.
@AndyBa this shows the value of calling people on the phone! I just communicated with them via eBay messages. All good though - I reckon I can get the motor hooked up with the help on here and seems like others have managed it. @rubjonny I think I understand... re: option 2 do you mean 'slip' the connector with two black wires to the solenoid stud? Feels like I'm mountaining molehills! I'll post sanity check photos again once I get a chance to swap stuff around
Make a small wire with ring terminal one end, male spade on the other. Put the ring under the nut terminal shown in the link above, plug the black wire spade to the male spade and you're done To test it's correct, put 12v to the new wire male spade you created. The starter shouldn't crank
Turns out the ring terminal I put on the black wires fit on the solenoid stud so didn't have to make a short convertor cable so I moved that. Best angle I could get a photo: I think it's wired up correctly - nothing got hot or caught fire at least. Engine cranked on the key and spent about 10 mins trying to get it to run before stopping for the day. Short video clip here - I'm considering cleaning the metering head next - or HT leads? warning horrible screech at 20 seconds!
Right, time to do some more checking. I plan to pull the injectors to check fuel delivery. Problem is I can't seem to pull them out. Any tips on lube to spray the O rings with to free them up? Or do I need to eat some spinach and pull harder? Or maybe I'll have a look at the metering head first. Watched this video the other day and it gave me confidence to have a go at pulling it apart. Decisions decisions!
There is a special tool which can be bought to pull the injectors. It’s cheap but I could only find a supplier in the States so took ages to arrive but does work. When we’re the injectors last pulled out? I know on my 8v that they wouldn’t pull out at all due to the green rubber seal having gone completely solid with age. From memory I had to cut the the brass inserts with a Dremel to pull the injectors out. Try to pull them out straight or you risk pulling the air shroud of the head of the injector and leaving it in the hole.
If your 16v is still running the original Injectors they will be as stuck as mine were !! The easiest way to remove them "without" damaging something else, in particular the Injector Pipes, is to remove the Inlet Manifold, complete with the Injectors and tap them out from inside, it makes the job easy and allows you to clean everything before fitting the new o rings and shields.
Thanks everybody for the comments. Sounds like there's some exciting work ahead. According to paperwork injectors were replaced 3 years ago (or they just put a receipt for 4 new injectors in the folder ) @PhilRyder sage advice re new rings especially as they seem cheap enough. @Rustbuster yikes cutting inserts! Is this link similar to the tool you got? @Peter Sears sounds sensible and would give me a good excuse to clean up the manifold while I'm at it - it's in a sorry state. Won't be long before I end up pulling the whole engine out and this turns into a 10 year on and off resto .... Not yet, not yet
