16v turbo what's involved ??? Got bare shell so many options!

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Sirguydo, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Hi just been looking at notenoughtime s restore really good progress and makes me feel a bit jealous of some peoples skills [8(] noticed a few of you suggesting 16v turbo . I've got a 90 5 door she'll rot free but bad respray badly micro blistered so needs full rub down and respray ???:cry: advice please:thumbup:
    Got abf subframe big 280 brakes etc a 16 v engine ported fast road cams?? And a 20v turbo lump plus a 2.0 8v block and top ..
    So what's involved and needed to do a 16v turbo?
    How's it going to be better than the 20 v turbo I've got?
    Anyone recommend a good bodyshop in Bolton / Manchester ?
    All coments and suggestions are very much appreciated :thumbup::clap:
     
  2. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    A 20vt is a much simpler job. Bolt it in, sort wiring, remap if you want, go. Depending on engine and mods, 200 to 250bhp.
    A 16vt requires a lot of work. Head off, stacked gaskets, custom manifolds. All that you get for free with the 20vt.

    If you're going to have to rebuild the 20vt to make bigger power, there's no real difference between the two. Costs (a lot) and power will be what you want.
     
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  3. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Thanks getting car on the roads my first priority so might just go 16v to start and work from there . Sort turbo lump and fit later . Got a 16 v donor car so could get loom sorted by someone who knows and change over when all ready to go.
     
  4. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    I would definitely do that. I've seen so many turbo builds just disappear because of the work involved.
     
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  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Assuming suspension and braking matches your expectations ( which are yet to be defined)

    Engine options already in hand are:

    1. 2.0 8v long engine
    2. 16v with P and P head ( you were not clear if this was just a KR, 9A or ABF)
    3. 20vT engine.

    We have no idea what is your desired requirements for the shell, which would help in further suggestions.

    To suggest the feasibility of building a 16vT, you would have to first describe what expectation your have and what you are willing to input to the project, in terms of your own skill, time and resources.
     
  6. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    The master has spoken toyotec:thumbup: got 2 kr engines one standard the other stage 2 head but key way in crank damaged due too lots of torque ?? Was in a really nice h reg that got pushed off drive as wasn't running due to timing miles out ,down the road leather interior stripped and torched [:x]
    As to my expectations not sure,want a nice driving car to take my family out in on sunny weekends. Live in Bolton so won't be that often:cry: also family is my wonderful wife and 4&6 year old girls managed to get them to like Star Wars :thumbup:but not sure how they'd take to a bumpy old golf ?
    Could put the abf subframe and big brakes on my vw cup mk2 track car supposed to have Tsr pack a head does Tsr 1648 on the head confirm?
    So I suppose I want a nice weekender for family and can tune and track my other gti [:D]
    Thanks:clap:
     
  7. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Was thinking of coming to Bedford but track car running badly jus going to pull injectors and see if can sort them.
    Problem is over fuel on 1&4 under fuel2&3
    Any tips on injectors? ;)
     
  8. Gup16v Forum Member

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    I agree with the above. You can do it if you put the time and effort in. It makes it harder when you dont have a specific goal or target in mind because you have so many options when turbocharging a N/A. If you all want is the car be to quick then 20vT is the cheaper and safer option. The block is designed for forced induction to a certain degree.

    With a 20v, its pretty straightforward, everything is located far more conveniently and the hardest bit is the wiring. The rest can be bunged in, the downpipe can be brought off the shelf and your about 90% done (depending on what engine code you choose).

    BAM engines cost abit more but when mapped will see around 260 bhp on the harshest dyno's.

    Not trying to convince you from doing it but its better you know before rather than find out when its too late lol
     
  9. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Skills can do most stuff proficiently been rebuilding my car and fork truck engines for the past 25 years. Welding and spaying is ok but my biggest problem is electrics as colour blind :cry: but I do have my wife's uncle doing 2 days a week for me he's a professional jigger and isn't bad at all things mechanical been doing it for a living for 40 years .
    Anyone got ideas for a DIY beedblast cabinet got 1000 later ibcs and clear Perspex kicking around think I can rumble something up to do calipers and subframe lol
     
  10. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    If you are thinking if doing it. Ive got a spare turbo and manifold that I could let go. Same setup as in my sig. ;)
     
  11. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    The blaster near me is so cheap its not worth building a blast cabinet, maybe worth phoning round! he blasted four wheels 20

    thanks for the comments :thumbup:
     

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