ok i got some quotes from elephant for myself only (23 0 ncb) to drive on a golf gti 16v and 8v but i cant decide wether or not i should get a 16v or 8v cos i aint really bothered about speed so a 8v would suit me if need be. the golf 16v came in a F/C- 957 OR TPFT 790 and the golf 8v was F/C 782 and TPFT 669 also if there is just about 200 between to to should i just get a 16v cos they are a better car? whatever golf i get it has to have p/s and e/w and c/l? what years did they come with these as standard? also do you think i could get quotes cheaper than elephant or is that a very good price?
Depends if the car will be kept standard or not. Elephant will shaft you if you modify the car. Go with HIC, Brentacre, Green Light, Adrian Flux, Norwich Union or Footman James. They're numbers should be in the back of Golf mags. I'm assuming your on about MK2 golfs?? There will inevitably the 8v versus 16v debate. I'd personally go for the 16v if you do alot of motorway driving and it's always useful to have that bit more oomph. 200 extra isn't that much really. 16v's will hold their value more anyway. VW designed the 16V to be just as economical as the 8v around town so running costs should be roughly the same. 16V!
I've just got the 8v, not because of power but because the car was in good condition. That's the most important thing - getting the right car for a reasonable price. (Mk 2 GTi 8v, royal blue metallic, NO rust, good spec - 1000). If you're not too fussed about the power difference, go for the best looking one (power can be added ). As far as spec is concerned, look for later models (1990-onwards) which come with most of that as standard (mine doesn't have central locking - couldn't care less), but does have leccy windows, PAS and leccy sunroof. Insurance prices seem good considering no NCB, try Admiral too - they're quite good and also Egg. Look for alarm / immobilised cars (with certificate) because it makes a bit of a difference.
Make sure you get a good car. Make sure it is tight and its all in working order. Make sure it has some receits and preferably a FSH. (i'm sure you know this) For E/W pas that tends to be fairly common on 90spec (big bumpers) Dont worry about the insurance. With direct line the 16v was only 40 more. That was with 0ncb and i'm 21. Bear in mind with the 16v you have to run it on 98ron unless you fiddle with the timing. I'd go with the 16v anyday! You'll regret it if you dont
what years did the 8v come with rear disk brakes? (if ever?) and P/S E/W OR C/L? i think i might be going for a 8v cos i have a feeling that a 16v for my price range (1500- 2000) will of had the boobies ragged off, wearas 8v seems to of been 'repected' a bit more cos the owners know they arnt as fast so why bother?
All mk2 GTIs had the same rear disk brakes! Cant see the point of 16vs myself.. more expensive to maintain insure and run for a few tenths 0-60 advantage.. 8vs are quicker around town and more economical on the motorway and then late 88 onwards 8vs run properly on 95ron
Check out www.golfsgalore.com for good straight unmodded examples. You should be able to find a nice one here for your money... (JJarvis' new motor came from there I think... ) There's always Ebay (where I got mine from) which can turn up bargains - just see Gringo's earlier thread...
How are they more expensive to maintain? I think you'll find 16V's are the same economically to drive assuming you drive at the same pace. The reason people complain about mpg on valvers is because they're always using the extra power ie. flooring it!
Not true. All valvers were K-Jet whereas >88 8v engines had Digifant. This means the throttle response isn't as good, but MPG is noticeably improved.
16 valves in the head every 80-100k (twice as many as 8 ) 8000rpm rev limit shortens life of the engine overall 020 gearbox a bit marginal with 140bhp K(E)-jetronic needs 6monthly tune by specialists otherwise you'll only be getting 110-120bhp @ fly - like most mk2 16vs More expensive spark plugs, oil and filters if serviced properly too Get a post 88 8v if you want an easy life is my advice Edited by: krytie
I got my 16v for 1700. 114000 on the clock, FVWSH, paperwork from new, MOT till June, paintwork was immaculate, PAS, E/W, BBS alloys, Mk3 rear calipers, recond cylinder head, new cambelt. Tight motor. Its possible to get them for that much, just be patient. I looked for over a month. I dont think its true about 8vs being respected more either, its easier to insure so more boy racers, i saw plenty of shocking versions. And you wont have to worry about that if you find the right motor. Watch out for the gearbox too, plenty feel very loose. The 16v like to be revved so dont worry about it. You'll defiately be grinning Edited by: Joe16v
