1984 Cabriolet Wiring Harness photo-rear

Discussion in 'Mk1' started by Kevin Budgie, Jul 23, 2019.

  1. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    I was hoping someone had a 1984 Cabriolet VW rear Fuse Panel photo with wires connected
    I am trying to rewire a Fuse Box in and the Individual Circuits pin outs on the rear of Battery power section "p' aren't labelled-I have two large male spade connectors that are main power in that aren't on diagram as they appear on my Fuse Box rear pinouts.
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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  3. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    I appreciate your response.
    These connections are mostly for additional equipment then, they aren't all in use, I was curious if I had everything correct. With the G spades I was curious about the exciter wire spade G4, previous owner cut a wire in a loom and directed it to G4-his way of dealing with a short I think-I reconnected it as original
    Thank you-I did hook them up where the obviously go-the car runs but I have switched out fuse box, previous owner had wiring issues and spliced and cut, I am putting everything back as it should be, with one fuse box I didn't have the emergency flasher lights but signal lights, now I have the flasher but no signals and when I turn the head lights on it cuts the engine-I am going to run some new grounds and clean up connections.
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    yep this is correct. bare minimum on a standard euro car is the 2 fat lives to P as mentioned, and a black wire to G spade 2 or 5 from the handbrake warning light plus sometimes a grey/blue to G/8 for a spare dash lights on feed.

    G/4 is never used as far as I can see, jumping ignition live here would get the alternator charging if your clocks are faulty thats the only reason I would think someone would put a feed there?

    for indicators double check fuse 19 and check the wiring at the hazard switch, the black/blue wire should be fitted to spade 15 and is the ignition live feed from fuse 19 for the indicators. since its a spade on its own easy for it to get dislodged then short out somewhere metal taking out fuse 19 and your indicators

    if its got the MFA clocks there is an earth for the dashboard to the head, usually it kills the clocks with lights on rather than the engine but still worth a look. have a look at the battery voltage with engine running ideally it should be over 14v with no load. I'd say check its around 13.5v under load too but that seems to be a problem at the moment :lol:

    one thing if the battery light on the clocks isnt on with ignition then the blue wire to alternator D+ is disconnected somewhere or clocks/bulb is damaged, this would stop the alternator charging properly and may explain why its cutting out now with load and also why a random feed was put to G/4...
     
  5. UncleAintCare New Member

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    May I ask, does it matter what spade connector is utilized in P for battery + and ignition 30? ? I have an empty "P" Section, have no taillights and my wipers activate when turning on the headlights.

    Im just aquring this shell and my igntion switch is wired diretly to 12v and directly to the starter, bypassing the fuse box completely. Im thinking this is causing Load reduction issues and lighting issues.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
  6. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    I will look tomorrow at mine-you should have two larger spade connectors one with a black shielding and one with a white shielding or plastic cover, one is battery power to fuse block and the other Fuel system power-then there is a smaller spade connector with a red wire, it goes to number 5-the top connector is horizontal-that is 1-then inside left is 2-outside right is 3, below 3 is 5--5 is on outside row of P on the fuseblock. I will double check tomorrow.
    http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/ElectricalSystem.pdf-here is a diagram link
     
  7. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    From memory the black conector goes to N-fuel
    Then I think now there are two larger spade connectors that obviously go to the bigger male plug ons-both have whiteish or clear connector covers
     
  8. UncleAintCare New Member

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    Thanks Kevin. If you could grab a photo man Id owe you a 6 pack for LIFE!! Im not seeing these connectors you are reffering too. Mind you im running a carb so I dont utilize fuel pump/fuel injectors etc
     
  9. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    The red power wires from battery come through firewall in a bundle of wires-they are thicker-they plug into the two with bigger blades-I have photos now but I tried pasting them and nothing- I could email them to you?
    Make sure your relays are clean, I had bad connections to the relays because of corrosion, caused headaches-spray and clean, all I used contact electrical spray and welding tip cleaners-even a toothbrush sometimes-then a little dremmil with a small wire wheel-then I found out that a fully charged battery is essential too-I was getting a voltage drop when I turned on headlights-it would kill the power to Engine-it was a weak battery-a weak battery makes all kinds of problems
     
  10. Kevin Budgie New Member

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    If the link to the Cabby diagram doesn't work-cut and paste it into a search on your browser-I used their diagrams continuously
    Again I can email the photos-
     
  11. UncleAintCare New Member

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    All great tips and advice. I’ll get to it. Although I know I have nothing plugged into P slot. My email address is bullsandbearsfab@gmail.com. Thank you so much Kevin. People like yourself make the world go round and are invaluable to the car community.
     
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    all the P spades are joined together as are all the live feeds inside. as long as you haver battery live to a P spade then the fusebox itself will be powered up ok. you can run the ignition switch directly from battery live if you like it'll work just as well as running it from P

    make sure the brown wire from the white D plug is connected to the white 4 way spade black near the fusebox, this is fed from the battery negative. theres a wire out the back of the spade block which goes to the claw above the fusebox as well. Then as a rule of thumb, if you have a thick brown wire with brown or black spade housing it needs to go into the claw, and wires with a bare spade or clear spade housing need to go to the claw.

    have a look here also:
    https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/fusebox-faq.219775/
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Admin

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    just re-read, if you have no wires to the P spades at all from the battery then that's a problem, should be battery -> P spade, ignition -> P spade using the 2 larger sized terminals
     

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