All the bolts for the subframe arrived but I noticed there is loads of play in them when pushed through the subframe. Looks to me like you could get as much as 10mm movement in the subframe when offering it up to the car. Does anyone have any tips on how I can make sure the subframe is bolted up into the exact right position? took a couple pics with the bolts held in place with cable ties and you can see there is loads of space around them.
Do they fit or are they one size too small? Can't remember if mine has this too. At least never noticed and I've removed the subframe quite some times
But of a random update but thought it mig it be worth it just in case it helps someone out. @PhilRyder made a post the other day about window seals, and I commented on how I had fixed my lazy window seal. Since then I have been thinking of a more permanent solution and I think I have found it. so if any of you have old shrunken window seals that no longer hold the window glass tightly this is a fix I did over the weekend and it has worked brilliantly, cost a couple quid, and took literally minutes to do. I popped down to my local B&Q and bought 3M of PVC tubing. It’s the stuff you often see used in aquariums etc and is the 5mm diameter tubing. The length cost me just over £3. All you then do is pull the inner door seal out, and feed the pvc tubing into the groove of the seal. If you push it into the bottom of the groove it seats itself quite nicely. As I got to the end I used a few dots of hot glue to hold it in as the seal was more worn out at the end and wasn’t holding the tube as tight. I’m guessing if your seal is more worn out you might want to do this all along. With the tube fitted into the seal you just push it back into place and job done. The seals literally work like new now. The tubing is flexible enough to support the seal so might also be a good way to preserve a good seal for a longer time. The result are windows that don’t leak or rattle, and less wind noise as well. Not a massive feat of engineering by any means , but hopefully it helps someone at some point.
Silicon medical tubing is a bit more flexible if it's a bit too stiff with the aquarium stuff, it's what I've used on the seal between glass and pillar on the mgf, got the tubing off ebay.
with the subframe yes thats normal, lots of play. the rear bushes have tin sleeves which push up thru them and into the subframe top and bottom to ensure they are centred, but you can just do that by eye. later VW have threaded pins which help line up the subframe assembly before fitment. may be able to find a spacer online to do the same with some m12 studding the play is probably there to account for slightly twisted shells, the chassis legs arent the strongest. I was able to bend mine straight-ish with nothing more than a length of timber shove up it after my accident
Few more updates over the last few days. The Vibratechnics engine mounts arrived so I bolted them up to the subframe. I went for the fast round ones but after they arrived I realised that the front mount I bought on Facebook is actually a competition one not a fast road as I thought. Hopefully it doesn't vibrate my teeth out once fitted, and hopefully the fast road ones calm it down a bit but only time will tell. If its too harsh I will sell it on and get a fast road one to match the other two. Next up I wanted to replace the scuffed NS rear arch. The car had obviously scraped up against something a few years back and the marks on it were killing me. After rummaging in the loft I finally located the new old stock arch I had purchased months ago and set about getting it fitted. I was surprised how hard it was to get it to line up with the old one, and I ended up having to heat it with a hair dryer to soften it up and massage it into place. After doing that it went on much easier and I managed to get all of the rivets in without any modifications. New arch on and all lined up... After that I set about pushing out the pressure dent in the rear bumper. At some point in its life one of the owners had reversed up against something and put a slight pressure dent into the bumper. It looks much worse in some light than others, but it was just too prominent for me to live with. The above pic isn't great but you can just make out the dent. I popped off the bumper iron and was surprised to see it was in OK shape. I tightened up the bolts that were a little loose, rubbed it down and decided to leave it as is given it was always going to be hidden away. I did wire wheels off any surface rust, and give the areas a blast with satin black paint, but forgot to take an after pic... Next I cut a shim out of ABS plastic and shaped to to the size of the dent and the profile of the bumper. I then used my rotary tool and drilled out the plastic weld between the two skins of the bumper. Once drilled out I pushed the shim into the space behind the dent. I then used some cable ties and my soldering iron and "plastic welded" the two skins back together. It wasnt too neat but it was solid so I left it at that. After that I pushed the iron back into place and popped the bumper back on. Apologies for the overly shiny bumper in the pic. It was covered in dirty finger marks from all of the work so I drown it in bumper black to soak in over night. It has flatted back to normal now. Im still chasing down a few bits for the bay and subframe refresh but am nearly ready to get it all pulled apart now.
Great write up!! I’ve been consumed for the last hour reading start to finish.. I too am attempting bringing my 16v back to life! Currently welding as a novice but getting there slowly!! But I will get there! Sometimes need a little inspiration! Brilliant work bud.
Little update just to say the folks at Vibratechnics are top notch with their customer service. I was fitting the new engine mounts to the subframe and noticed a split in the rubber. After contacting them they asked me to ship it back to them for inspection. I shipped it on Thursday, and this morning a brand new replacement arrived. I was a little worried they might haggle as I had already bolted it up to the subframe, but they sorted it no questions asked. Their mounts are pricey but with great customer service and a lot of pride in their products Im glad I spent my money with them. The new one is all good and bolted up ready to go.
Not a whole lot going on at the moment. AM still collecting parts for the engine refresh and will hopefully get stuck into that in September when the last of the local shows are over. Have spent the last few weeks trying to get to a few shows which has been fun. Here is a quick snap from the most recent one.
I was really excited to get a message from Gas N Gears today with a pic of the below. I have been wanting one of his linkage kits since I got the car, and when I recently ordered a flywheel from him he let me know that he would knock me up a linkage kit at the same time. Should be with me next week some time, but probably won't be fitted until September when I pull the Motor out.
