problem with the g60 is it doesnt like revs, something to do with the air speed from the charger. Plus they dont need to rev, a long stroke engine would be a torque monster
Cheers lads...Yep, im not really after something that winds up...May as well make use of the boost that can be produced first. Im still gathering info at the moment, and one thing im wondering is...what can the 3A lump be bored out to? If i was to go the custom piston route, then it would be rude not to pay a few quid for the block boring out a little. Neil. EDIT:Just to add... There are some 3A specific oversize forged pistons here - 83.5mm bore w/ 9:1 CR Anyone got any more links? And what do people think about the smaller wrist pin diameter that id have to use? I think?
whats the thinkin with 3a lump? would have thought(guessed) 2e is better block for what your doin. better oil squirters and being taller its got better rod/stroke ratio so less risk if you bore it out. 3a is useful for mk1s where height is an issue, and 16vt as a kr head drops compression to around 9:1. if you do go tallblock avoid post 95 stuff as dont think they had forged internals.
I did initially think about the 2e for that reason, better rod ratio...But ive got a stainless 4 branch to go on, and they are already a very tight fit on the short blocks. Im open to all idea's/suggestions though Neil.
furry muff.. like i said 3a gets used for 16vt so must be strong block and pretty sure they got forged inards as well. gettin quite hard to find might wanna check 9a(same block/crank/rods just different pistons) also note if you do go audi 80 hunting.. for some wierd reason audi used two different 4cyl 2l engines at same time, 3a and think other was add. code is printed on label in boot(near side behind spare)
Chers mate... Are the oil/water ways in the same place on the 3a as 9a? Can't just think if they are or not? Just to be sure a g60 head would go on no probs.
Mmmm, im having dirty thoughts about 95.5mm cranks Im unsure though...It would obviously adjust the rod ratio, and for what gain? Would it create a bit of a torque monster? Would it really bring down the rev limit/power band? And would i be correct in saying that the custom pistons would need 1.35mm machining off the tops, and also having the dish worked to keep the C/R at 9:1? Oh...and... Are the oil/water ways in the same place on the 3a as 9a? Can't just think if they are or not? Just to be sure a g60 head would go on no probs. Neil.
there is nothing dirty about 95.5mm cranks. Poor picture but you get the idea, one std 1Y crank after a bit of love and a welsh diet, then fitted in the block having never driven my long stroke engine, i have only ever been in a passenger in a couple but Hotgolfs 2.1 used to rev to 8k rpm, so the revs arent a problem with a worked crank. I have only ever been in one g60 corrado but from what i remember the torque was impressive. so the two coupled together........ you would probably have to have a tall block tho, personally i would go with the 2E, with the oil squirters to help keep things a bit cooler. my machined pistons, to a give a CR of 11:1 again courtesy of a welsh diet. Hotgolf would be my first call
Cheers Al Im just trying to weigh up in my head if its worth the cost of going for the diesel crank or not...If i stick with the short block which id like to do, because of exhaust manifold clearance with the 4 branch...Then it means i can't buy pistons off the shelf so to speak if i use diesel crank. Unless i can find someone who does a piston for use with the 95.5mm crank while retaining 9:1 C/R and not having issues as far as popping over the deck height etc... If i stick with the 92.8mm throw then i can just pick a set of these up, and jobs a good un. Mmmmm. Its all just ponderance at the moment while i look for a block. Please do keep any info coming though, tis much appreciated
4 branch clearance problems, its strange that one mk2 car suffer whilst another mk2 wont. from what i understand its not a huge problem, nothing that can be sorted by modding the Engine mounts.
Its a g-werks one i have Al, for the Corrado and apparently they run very close when fitted to the standard pg block/short block. Im not sure how id go about tweaking the engine mounts? I can imagine shaving a few mm off the drivers side rear bracket that comes off the block, but can't think of a way to drop the box side, the brackets there are already a crap/thin design imo. Neil.
other way around lowering it pulls the engine away from the bulk head, but can put the manifold close to the bonnet, the trick is to find a medium
I think you got those graphs mixed up there Riley. This is the 2.0 8v with a standard head graph. And now with all the boost leaks fixed and a ported head... I reckon this crank, rod and piston setup could be used in a PG block with 3A oil squirters.
