There are many other factors to be taken into account too. Trumpet length... needs to be a minimum of 40mm, 60mm is better though. Filters... if your running socks your killing it. Manifold port size... on that valve size it needs to be 32mm right through the manifold into the head, if it's not matched "correctly" if wont work to its maximum potential. The manifold bolts holes will break through, if they hav'nt, it's not big enough. C.R... certatainly needs to be 11:1, dont guess, measure it properly with a burette. Ignition timing... should be around 28 degree's. Cam timing... if one is'nt fitted already it'll need a vernier. If one's fitted, has the cam been swung ? Equal lift on inlet and exhaust at tdc as a starting point, then advance by 2 degree's will get the job done. Exhaust manifold... are the ports in the manifold lined up with the ports in the head ? Most aftermarket manifolds dont line up without a bit of "fettling", the Ashley manifold as an example usually has the holes cut in the flanges on the pi$$, so needs a die grinding attack to "square up" and align with the exhaust ports in the head (and made a little bigger at the bottom). Carbs... that choke size is fine for the power it "should" have, but too big for it's current output. You could still run the 45's with smaller chokes, 34mm's would be fine with 45's. Or... you could check the above and correct where needed. If "all" of the above is an issue, you've just found your 15hp. And if the tuner "cant be arsed" then the fueling is probably out even with what you have. Seek and you will find... it's in there somewhere.
its theyre 2l 8v full engine build but with a 203 cam instead of the 202 and pack C head. Running on twin 45 DCOE carbs on a polished and and opened up manifold to suit the ports on the head. 150 lb is good but i think it needs some one better to tune it, tsr cant do carbs so i went else where and i dont think they have done it justice.
Don`t give up on it ... You just need to find the right help with set up .. find a decent RR / Weber guy
From the ones I've seen to date, the heads are normally ported to suit a k-jet manifold (which makes sense to a point). If the carb manifold has been matched to that then it'll be way too small. I removed about a jam jar full of aluminium on the one I've just done to match/and size the manifold and ports correctly, and the head was originally a pack D/ slick 50 type spec, the original ports where next to no bigger than a standard port, presumably to match the original k-jet manifold, though still too small even in that spec. Most cant be bothered to open the ports enough ("oh you cant do that it'll break into the manifold bolt holes") and just run a flap wheel through the ports to "flow" them together, which does.... fa*k all. That "may" not be the issue (or only issue) with yours, but it's easy to check, if the bolt holes hav'nt been broken through, it's just not big enough. Remove a carb, get an old valve turned down to 32mm and try and pass it through the manifold into the head, if it does'nt fit, theres problem number 1. Then look at all the other areas I've listed above (some of them first) and see exactly whats what.
I've heard similar things ^^ about carb manifolds on 8v cars, especially as a lot of the aftermarket manifolds are badly made. I'm told that a Corrado G60 gasket is the way to go, and open up the head ports to match the manifold as much as possible.
It's not so much the gasket line as the angle of approach, correctly done, you end up with a sort of "off-set egg shape" at the top of the port. I've got some pics somewhere, or I'll take some of the one I've just done when it comes back from the machine shop.
mine has been opened up to a certain extent all the way through but dont think its enough as the holes havent broken through. Its fitted with a G60 gasket which i had to modify the size of to get it to fit the shape of the manifold ports so looks like the manifold has had a fair bit taken out of it. Im tempted if its now going in my daily to bin the carbs and try piece together a k jet system to use instead. It will probably produce more power lol
mr hillclimber................. Ignition timing... should be around 28 degree's. sorry for hijack.......mr hillclimber....would you recommend this kind of advance setting on my brands hatch 2.0 8v with bvh, 272cam, milltek manifold with 3.5bar fpr and refurbed G60 injectors?? currently set at 8btdc and feels strong but cant help thinking theres a little more in there regards Tim
No probs, I think we hi-jacked this poor chaps thread anyway! The 28 degree's is a max advance figure. I think the advance is controlled in the ecu on digi, the "dizzy" just being a sort of phase sensor. Try going up a couple of degree's, but I'm not 100% sure if the main max will rise... listen for pinking though.
^What he said^ - the idle advance is just a base setting for the ECU to start the map from. Make sure you set advance at the correct RPM on a digi - about 2300, from memory. The Haynes manual details the process. The knock sensor should retard the timing in case of pinking, but you're better off starting at the optimum setting.
thanks for response guys i set at 8btdc from factory 6btdc...so 2 degree more, after revving 3 times over 3 and removed cts then revving to 2250rpm to dial in on dizzy..........does that sound about right? tsr did advise that set up "right" then this engine should hit 160bhp..........so i would really like to find "right" does anyone have real world experience of this setup? regards Tim
I'd have said 150-155hp (125-130 at the wheels) would be closer to right with that spec, nice road spec engine though if it does the biz.
I had my timing set at 8 degrees advance by a local RR, didn't seem as perky as before. Set it by ear a few days later (turned out to be close to 6degrees advance) and got it's poke back. I'm only running a stage 1 head and 268 on standard fuelling though
I was thinking that you might need it to pass an MOT, and if you stick it back on just for the MOT, a lairy engine might still not run clean enough at idle. If you don't need the car to be road legal, it shouldn't be a problem.
ive got this engine but with the next cam up running on twin 45's i dont think my carbs were set up properly and ive got a few niggles with the engine like needing to fit a vernier and time the engine spot on. On the rollers with a poor set up in my view, it made 138 bhp at the fly with 150 lb/ft so with a decent set up id say 150ish maybe more should be possible. It pulls like crazy !!
.....yeah my timing was out with everything retarded and buggered vac lines and hole in the inlet duct and managed 137.1 bhp on JKMs rollers ......needless to say all of these issues were before i purchased it and have since been sorted so i am just getting it close to perfect before a trip down to TSR for fine tuning later in the year have to say it feels a much more rabid animal now than it did then so i hope i have done some good.......but yeah it seems the general concensus is that this set up is good for around 150bhp+ be interesting to see the result although i am not chasing figures and am quite happy chasing and taking fairly standard mk2 kr & mk3 abf scalps
